suprise supreses and the results are in

[doom26464]

ok got the compression test done toighnt and here is the results:

#1 140
#2 125
#3 145
#4 140
#5 140
#6 175

well #6 is really high for some reason but also I noticed that there was alot of oil on the plug in the cylender when i removed it :1zhelp:

Also nice suprise I found out my car has NGK irduims in but also alot of them are like toast and really need replacing

I did this test to tell if i have a bhg but i really don't know. Im going to however get a hg test with like where they pour a fluid into your rad and if it turns like yellow that means exhasuht gases are getting into the coolant line.


Also last but not least I got a MAJOR big suprise. Go to put everything back together and start her up to drive out of the garage. The car right now is puffing alot of white smoke. But I noticed when I reved it white smoke coming from the engine. I get out and rev it by hand on the engine and notice that gasses are coming off the headers on the cylender 6 spot. Im guessing the gasket there is toast. But could this some how be related to the compression results in #6 and the fact that it had an oily spark plug??


help me guys im at your knees. :1zhelp:

 

[Adjuster]

I would say #2 is not in good shape based on it being much lower than the rest, and the excessive oil on #6 might be excessive oil getting past the rings. (Actually raising the compression test, but under normal conditions, it's burning that oil as you noted.)

A leak down test would likely show # 2 and 6 having poor performance v/s the others.

 

[Mk3 TurboS]

Did you soak up any oil that was in your Spark plug valley. If not when you pulled the plug the oil would have leaked into the cylinder and caused slightly higher compression. Also it would be the cause of the smoke blowing for up to five mins. HTH

Edit: the oil in the valley had prob come from loose Valve covers.

 

[doom26464]

Did you soak up any oil that was in your Spark plug valley. If not when you pulled the plug the oil would have leaked into the cylinder and caused slightly higher compression. Also it would be the cause of the smoke blowing for up to five mins. HTH

Edit: the oil in the valley had prob come from loose Valve covers.

hmmmm I never though of that. That could be the causes but I didn't think that much oil would leak in there. Even still burning oil shouldn't have a white smoke colour too it and also I still have the exuasht coming out of the turbo headers yet as another issue.

 

[GrimJack]

That #6 is likely causing issues from the oil that dripped in there when you pulled the plug. That will absolutely raise your compression and burn smoke when you start it up again.

Check your bolts on the exhaust manifold to head - especially the rear ones. Those will back out, (or strip the head,) and let the smoke from buring oil leak out past the gasket. Of course, this smoke should vanish if you take the car out for a good drive.

 

[theDon]

you could get a block test kit from NAPA to test for BHG

 

[americanjebus]

is it just me or do all of those numbers just seam really really low

try the compression test again but do it dry once, then drip some oil into the cylinders and repeat see what it ##'s you get. a jump from 125 to 145 seams like a pretty hefty jump.

 

[doom26464]

is it just me or do all of those numbers just seam really really low

try the compression test again but do it dry once, then drip some oil into the cylinders and repeat see what it ##'s you get. a jump from 125 to 145 seams like a pretty hefty jump.

im getting a block test done tommrow to c if I have a bhg then we will c what to do from there on.


I just feel kinda of lost and confused.

 

[GrimJack]

No worries there, just keep us posted on the results and we'll be sure to leave a candle on the windowsill so you can find your way home.

 

[doom26464]

No worries there, just keep us posted on the results and we'll be sure to leave a candle on the windowsill so you can find your way home.

thnx guys.

I have the money to fix it I just need the push in the right direction as to what to fix.

 

[doom26464]

just got the car back yesterday from the shop. They ran a test where they pump a blue fluid threw your rad and run your car if the fluid comes back yellow that means exhasut gases are getting into the rad. IF it comes back blue everything is ok. Well verdict is it came back wellll...... YELLOW!! So yeah its either a crack in the block (highly doubt thats it never seen that happen before) or the hg is gone. So I go with the mechanic to price it all out comes to 670 dollars for headgasket set another 700 for labour thats about 1,500 dollars. Plus arp bolts wich will probaly cost another 150 and then I would get my timming belt done as well as it would cost half the hour becuases mostly everything is off. So in grand total It all comes to 2,000 dollars :aigo: . SO I dunno exactly what im doing as I have no where near that kind of cash. Have to talk to the rents and c if they can mabye lend me some cash dunno. Things don't look good for the supra :cry:

 

[gixxer750]

what are they getting? a solid gold headgasket for $670? Dude, a cometic head gasket is only like $150....

 

[doom26464]

what are they getting? a solid gold headgasket for $670? Dude, a cometic head gasket is only like $150....

this is for a complete gasket set. I also have an exuasht leak from a bad exhasut gasket. SO I might as well get all my gasket and seals replaced.

 

[americanjebus]

1: dude go online buy a cometic hg. about $150, buy your arp bolts $100,

2: grab a phone book and start calling auto parts stores and ask for prices on timing belts and gasket sets for your car (oem gasket kit should only be $300 ish, if its more your getting jipped, and just keep the prices writtten down on a notepad and then pick the cheepest (you only need the alternate gaskets who cares abotu the hg that comes with the kit , thats your backup.

3: make sure you got some tools all you need is a hex head to take out your studs, a 10mm 12mm ,13, 14mm 15 and 17 (prefferably ratcheting) and a box of razor blades. and lots of plastic tubs and plastic bags to hold parts and bolts and label with masking tape

4: call your local shops/ machine shops and ask for pricing on cleaning your head and testing it for flatness( should not be more than $50 at all) and ask how much to change valve stem seals

5: find a ride for the next week.

6: find some colored tape or raid your moms nail polish collection

7:get your camera and take pictures of upper lower left right engine bay vacuum lines, throttle linkage, plug wires, and belts/pulleys and drain every fluid in the car exept tranny

8: start pulling things off and paint every hose you take off and every unidentifiable peice with a color of nail polish 1 by 1. and keep takign pictures MARK YOUR CPS AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE IT IS SET AT WHEN YOU TAKE IT OFF AND HAVE YOUR CAR TOP DEAD CENTER DURING PROCESS. it helps a butload when it comes to timing.
by the time you have the throttle body taken off the upper intake the throttle linkage the exaust housing ( you can just push it to the side dont have to take out, and take off hte valve covers take another picture of cams

9: clean the tops of hte little metal arc things that hold the camshaft in ( there are letters and numbers engraved in the tops to tell you wehre they go
example: one will say E1 that is hte 1st one on the exhaust side or I5 that is the 5th one on the intake side. put these in their own tub and when they are off take the time to pull off the little valve shims the whole top end of the valve should come out

looks like a 3cm cylinder with the bottome end cut off and just placed under where the valves push down on the top. pull those off in order and just draw on a large peice of paper where they go and put them there (you want to keep them in the same order otherwise you will find yourself redoing all of your valve spacing.

10: take the belts off all of them take the clutch fan and shroud off and label them whre they go, pull the timing belt off of hte sprockets and just let it hang for now

11: take your torque wrench (oh yea borrow one) and just loosen the bolts according to the tsrm (bassically start from the middle two then spread outwards goign diagnoally as not to warp the head but the things are probably so loose it wont do much (DONT QUOTE ME ON THIS)

12: once cam shafts are off and everythign is free and unbolted from the head and you have loosened the bolts you can just pull the head off (STRAIGHT UP DONT WIGGLE IT) then you will see the horrible gross bad hg you have (take a pic so you can see your cylinder walls and share with us what they look like.

13 plug up your cylinders with clean rags that are soaked in fresh motor oil so nothing falls in and take paper towels and plug the little holes, then take your razor blade and just clean the hell out of the block

14: IMPORTANT get a machine shop straight edge and put it on block to make sure its totally flat. and have your machine shop MACHINE YOUR HEAD to make sure its totally smooth. clean it change valve stem seals or you will hate yourself like i hate myself.

15 once it is cleaner than all hell that you can eat off of it put your studs into the block hand tight and take an air compressore and blow everything out one thing at a time dont get crap in your cylinders and AVOID using a metal brush on your block to avoid metal dust from getting in. (some argue it dont matter but why risk it)

16 once studs are on put your gasket on put your head on (DONT WIGGLE IT) drop it in nicely and put the bolts on the stud and start torquing. what i did on mine was first torque it (IN THE PROPER ORDER) start by only torqing to like 50, on all of the bolts then redo the bolts to about 70 and then finnally finish them off to a minimum of 76lb ft if you go cometic do 85ish.

oil the hell out of the top of your head use some cam lube and start looking at your gasket set and figuring out where everything goes. hopefully your pictures and your use of you moms nail polish will make assembling the engine again somethign like a paint by numbers. took me 5 hours after i had the head bolted down to have the car running again.

and i cant stress enough lube the hell out of everything with oil and take your time. have a friend help with keeping your eye on the details

this writeup missed allot of details i know just pm what i should add and i'll edit this but thats the basics

when i did this

TOTAL COST NEEDED PARTS: $450
TOTAL COST OF EXTRA HOSES BELTS PLUGS WIRES PERSONAL WANTS: $500
i spent more on stuff i wanted then what i needed and it still came to less than $1k. do it yourself or you will get a shit job that is torqued down to "spec" aka 55lbs of torque on your head.

YOU can do it, if a freakin greese monkey that cant get his GED can do it then you can. just take your time its really not that hard, i mean hell i did this solo having never changed my own oil before so yea i needed the full week to do it, just go for it.

 

[doom26464]

1: dude go online buy a cometic hg. about $150, buy your arp bolts $100,

2: grab a phone book and start calling auto parts stores and ask for prices on timing belts and gasket sets for your car (oem gasket kit should only be $300 ish, if its more your getting jipped, and just keep the prices writtten down on a notepad and then pick the cheepest (you only need the alternate gaskets who cares abotu the hg that comes with the kit , thats your backup.

3: make sure you got some tools all you need is a hex head to take out your studs, a 10mm 12mm ,13, 14mm 15 and 17 (prefferably ratcheting) and a box of razor blades. and lots of plastic tubs and plastic bags to hold parts and bolts and label with masking tape

4: call your local shops/ machine shops and ask for pricing on cleaning your head and testing it for flatness( should not be more than $50 at all) and ask how much to change valve stem seals

5: find a ride for the next week.

6: find some colored tape or raid your moms nail polish collection

7:get your camera and take pictures of upper lower left right engine bay vacuum lines, throttle linkage, plug wires, and belts/pulleys and drain every fluid in the car exept tranny

8: start pulling things off and paint every hose you take off and every unidentifiable peice with a color of nail polish 1 by 1. and keep takign pictures MARK YOUR CPS AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE IT IS SET AT WHEN YOU TAKE IT OFF AND HAVE YOUR CAR TOP DEAD CENTER DURING PROCESS. it helps a butload when it comes to timing.
by the time you have the throttle body taken off the upper intake the throttle linkage the exaust housing ( you can just push it to the side dont have to take out, and take off hte valve covers take another picture of cams

9: clean the tops of hte little metal arc things that hold the camshaft in ( there are letters and numbers engraved in the tops to tell you wehre they go
example: one will say E1 that is hte 1st one on the exhaust side or I5 that is the 5th one on the intake side. put these in their own tub and when they are off take the time to pull off the little valve shims the whole top end of the valve should come out

looks like a 3cm cylinder with the bottome end cut off and just placed under where the valves push down on the top. pull those off in order and just draw on a large peice of paper where they go and put them there (you want to keep them in the same order otherwise you will find yourself redoing all of your valve spacing.

10: take the belts off all of them take the clutch fan and shroud off and label them whre they go, pull the timing belt off of hte sprockets and just let it hang for now

11: take your torque wrench (oh yea borrow one) and just loosen the bolts according to the tsrm (bassically start from the middle two then spread outwards goign diagnoally as not to warp the head but the things are probably so loose it wont do much (DONT QUOTE ME ON THIS)

12: once cam shafts are off and everythign is free and unbolted from the head and you have loosened the bolts you can just pull the head off (STRAIGHT UP DONT WIGGLE IT) then you will see the horrible gross bad hg you have (take a pic so you can see your cylinder walls and share with us what they look like.

13 plug up your cylinders with clean rags that are soaked in fresh motor oil so nothing falls in and take paper towels and plug the little holes, then take your razor blade and just clean the hell out of the block

14: IMPORTANT get a machine shop straight edge and put it on block to make sure its totally flat. and have your machine shop MACHINE YOUR HEAD to make sure its totally smooth. clean it change valve stem seals or you will hate yourself like i hate myself.

15 once it is cleaner than all hell that you can eat off of it put your studs into the block hand tight and take an air compressore and blow everything out one thing at a time dont get crap in your cylinders and AVOID using a metal brush on your block to avoid metal dust from getting in. (some argue it dont matter but why risk it)

16 once studs are on put your gasket on put your head on (DONT WIGGLE IT) drop it in nicely and put the bolts on the stud and start torquing. what i did on mine was first torque it (IN THE PROPER ORDER) start by only torqing to like 50, on all of the bolts then redo the bolts to about 70 and then finnally finish them off to a minimum of 76lb ft if you go cometic do 85ish.

oil the hell out of the top of your head use some cam lube and start looking at your gasket set and figuring out where everything goes. hopefully your pictures and your use of you moms nail polish will make assembling the engine again somethign like a paint by numbers. took me 5 hours after i had the head bolted down to have the car running again.

and i cant stress enough lube the hell out of everything with oil and take your time. have a friend help with keeping your eye on the details

this writeup missed allot of details i know just pm what i should add and i'll edit this but thats the basics

when i did this

TOTAL COST NEEDED PARTS: $450
TOTAL COST OF EXTRA HOSES BELTS PLUGS WIRES PERSONAL WANTS: $500
i spent more on stuff i wanted then what i needed and it still came to less than $1k. do it yourself or you will get a shit job that is torqued down to "spec" aka 55lbs of torque on your head.

YOU can do it, if a freakin greese monkey that cant get his GED can do it then you can. just take your time its really not that hard, i mean hell i did this solo having never changed my own oil before so yea i needed the full week to do it, just go for it.

wait a sec why buy a cometic hg?? doesn't the headgasket set come with a headgasket and all the seals and gaskets????

Im not sure if I want to attempt this but monday im goign to start phoning around for parts. Once I have all the parts then we will c what I feel like doing from there on.

 

[americanjebus]

i know some will disagree but you might as well just get a cometic hg while your doing all this work to your engine. the stock hg itself is justl like $30-40 who needs it just have it arround incase you should need it someday.
the point of buying a gasket kit is to have all of the OTHER gaskets, cus you will need them they dont just peel off intact.

now is not the time to go cheep on your car (PART-WISE).

 

[doom26464]

i know some will disagree but you might as well just get a cometic hg while your doing all this work to your engine. the stock hg itself is justl like $30-40 who needs it just have it arround incase you should need it someday.
the point of buying a gasket kit is to have all of the OTHER gaskets, cus you will need them they dont just peel off intact.

now is not the time to go cheep on your car (PART-WISE).

I know I won't cheap out at all but I heard The OEM head gasket is fine with arp bolts???

 

[americanjebus]

true its your choice really, if your not gonna do heavy mods stay oem if you want it'll do you good up untill you hit boost in the high teens or bigger turbo.

if your staying in the moderate zone before 300-350 hp oem hg is no prob but i wasnt sure if you had plans down the road for shit like 60trim or 15psi. your good with oem, i have oem in mine and i cant complain and i know its reliable for a long time i just know i have to redo it if i choose to go to high boost.

 

[doom26464]

true its your choice really, if your not gonna do heavy mods stay oem if you want it'll do you good up untill you hit boost in the high teens or bigger turbo.

if your staying in the moderate zone before 300-350 hp oem hg is no prob but i wasnt sure if you had plans down the road for shit like 60trim or 15psi. your good with oem, i have oem in mine and i cant complain and i know its reliable for a long time i just know i have to redo it if i choose to go to high boost.

300-350hp is where i'd be happy at. Any higher then that is too much for me hehehehe.

 

[miggles]

regarding the writeup americanjebus did,You dont have to use your mom's nailpolish,you can also choose to use your own:naughty: rofl.Goodluck buddy.:icon_bigg