Supra mk3 full flow oil cooling system.

[mangaz]

Hi supra people!

i recently bought a 1990 supra mk3 7m-gte targa.
A lot of people have told me to upgrade the oil cooling system, and that the stock isnt so good.
My plan is to get atleast 350-400hp in the machine and i already know all the precautions there is to know like a new headgasket and arp etc.

Back on topic, i think i read a thread here (or in a different supra forum) about a guy who built a full flow oil cooling system and had a link to each specific part to buy, now i cant find that thread anymore
so if someone kind person can post me in the right direction about all parts that is needed that would be great!

And sorry for my crappy english, im from sweden so that will be my excuse :naughty:

 

[super51fan]

Waste of time and money at your power level. Stock oil system is a great system. Most engine get the " rod knock" because of low oil levels not poor design problem. IMO. I have seen several people loose an engine due to the failing of aftermarket oil system "cures" .

You should do an oil change and check oil every 500 miles to find out how fast your car is using oil.

 

[mangaz]

Waste of time and money at your power level. Stock oil system is a great system. Most engine get the " rod knock" because of low oil levels not poor design problem. IMO. I have seen several people loose an engine due to the failing of aftermarket oil system "cures" .

You should do an oil change and check oil every 500 miles to find out how fast your car is using oil.

Oh ok, i heard elsewise, but im not a pro
Thing is that the retards who owned the car before me have already replaced the cooler and the hoses and just have been plain retarded when installing it.

 

[jetjock]

The operative word here is "cooling"...

 

[emericaskater285]

Waste of time and money at your power level. Stock oil system is a great system. Most engine get the " rod knock" because of low oil levels not poor design problem. IMO. I have seen several people loose an engine due to the failing of aftermarket oil system "cures" .

You should do an oil change and check oil every 500 miles to find out how fast your car is using oil.

True at these power levels, he does not need an oil cooler upgrade, but it would be beneficial.
You should correct yourself, because the factory oiling system for a 7m is far from great. There are some pretty big flaws in it that can be easily corrected. It works, but is not great.

Link to thread op was asking for. http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ostat-Controlled-Oil-Cooler-amp-Remote-Filter

 

[noel]

Being that your for that power level your gonna want a bigger IC, which means relocating the stock oil cooler..make sure its somewhere where air can reach it properly. Honestly an oil change and good filter from Toyota would do just fine for know..if you take off one of the oil cooler lines and its BLACK its best to clean out the lines/cooler or just replace it. I relocated mine oil cooler where my fog light used to be.

 

[hvyman]

A proper oil cooler system with a good t stat like a mocal is great idea imo. The stock cooler system sucks on the 7m.

 

[JDMMA70]

I did this during the engine rebuild. Oddly enough my oil pressure is weird. 70Psi cold and around stock at idle (18psi) it was worth it ve simply for the oil filter relocation. Im running a earls tstat.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I'll throw my opinion in the ring here.

OP: the stock system is fine at those power levels. It's not excellent, but it works. If your system is already hacked you may as well look at a full flow setup, but you could also revert back to the factory setup easily.

Take caution: The full flow setups put ALL your oil in the hands of your lines, cooler, adapter, t-stat, etc... If any one of those parts fails you're likely to have complete, catastrophic failure in your engine. The factory unit is better in this regard for reliability. The pressure sensitive nature of the cooling relief valves mean a failure in the cooling section of the oil lines may not cause catastrophic failure in your engine. If the factory set up experiences a sheared oil cooling line for instance, oil will only be lost while the pump is providing needed pressure. The engine will continue to receive it's needed oil quantity and pressure. If you shear an oil line on a full flow setup you better shut that thing down immediately because you're instantly without pressure to the engine.

This is all to say if you go the aftermarket, full flow route make sure you do it 100% correctly and use top notch parts. One small failure in that setup could mean your engine is toast.

If you want to keep it simple and as reliable as possible I would revert to the factory setup and use a high quality oil and filter. Check your oil levels often and keep it 1 quart ABOVE the full line. Do not use oil thicker than specified to get yourself more pressure. You'll simply be diverting more oil through the cooling lines. If you can't get sufficient pressure (verified by a good mechanical gauge) with Xw-30 or Xw-40 oil you likely have worn out bearings in need of replacement.

 

[mangaz]

I'll throw my opinion in the ring here.

OP: the stock system is fine at those power levels. It's not excellent, but it works. If your system is already hacked you may as well look at a full flow setup, but you could also revert back to the factory setup easily.

Take caution: The full flow setups put ALL your oil in the hands of your lines, cooler, adapter, t-stat, etc... If any one of those parts fails you're likely to have complete, catastrophic failure in your engine. The factory unit is better in this regard for reliability. The pressure sensitive nature of the cooling relief valves mean a failure in the cooling section of the oil lines may not cause catastrophic failure in your engine. If the factory set up experiences a sheared oil cooling line for instance, oil will only be lost while the pump is providing needed pressure. The engine will continue to receive it's needed oil quantity and pressure. If you shear an oil line on a full flow setup you better shut that thing down immediately because you're instantly without pressure to the engine.

This is all to say if you go the aftermarket, full flow route make sure you do it 100% correctly and use top notch parts. One small failure in that setup could mean your engine is toast.

If you want to keep it simple and as reliable as possible I would revert to the factory setup and use a high quality oil and filter. Check your oil levels often and keep it 1 quart ABOVE the full line. Do not use oil thicker than specified to get yourself more pressure. You'll simply be diverting more oil through the cooling lines. If you can't get sufficient pressure (verified by a good mechanical gauge) with Xw-30 or Xw-40 oil you likely have worn out bearings in need of replacement.

Finally some good answers!
the power goal i provided now is only for this summer, then I'm going to do a complete engine rebuild for a lot more power, so isn't it better to build a full flow so i don't have to waste time on that when the engine is being rebuilt?
And i would love for you guys to point me in the right direction for parts and if your kind write a list of all that is needed. And if you are even kinder then you could link me the parts :$

last words is that I'm glad i signed up to this forum , quick feedback and no cocky answers.
Just mature answers with a motivation to your thoughts, Cheers supra guys!

 

[mangaz]

i also can say that in sweden we have a very limited market for these parts, that why i would love some links with international shipping.