stupid question: I have been struggling to time my car for 2 days now, and had to walk away due to excessive frustration and "get big hammer" type thoughts. So I am starting from scratch, because I obviously f*cked up somewhere. My question is this: How do you ensure that the engine is sitting a #1 TDC compression stroke? 0 deg on the crank I know is tdc, but how do you tell if its compression or exhaust stroke?
stupid q
- Thread starter Xtreme
- Start date
Wont this only occur when the cam timing marks align with there time marks?
What you can do is remove the spark plug from the head and use the old straw trick or whatever you can find that is long and strait and not likely to break off in the cylinder. Rotate the engine and the piston will come the top at two times once on the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of compression stroke which is the one you want this will also correspond to when the timing marks on the cam gears line up with there timing marks on cam cover
G-day
What you can do is remove the spark plug from the head and use the old straw trick or whatever you can find that is long and strait and not likely to break off in the cylinder. Rotate the engine and the piston will come the top at two times once on the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of compression stroke which is the one you want this will also correspond to when the timing marks on the cam gears line up with there timing marks on cam cover
G-day
Doesn't matter. The engine will run and time just fine with the timing out 180 degrees anyhow, we run a wasted spark system that fires two cylinders at once.
What exactly has been the problem with your timing?
What exactly has been the problem with your timing?
I just can't seem to get it "right" It seems like I'm a tooth off on my cps, as the car will only run with the cps rotated all the way to one end of the adjustment slot or the other. Right now, I can't even see the timing mark on the crank pully when I light it up with the timing light. As a result, my idle is screwed, my car pops when you rev it up (in the driveway or under load) it's just not right.
Edit: To clarify, I also changed my timing belt the same time as my head and cams, just some other relavant info.
Edit: To clarify, I also changed my timing belt the same time as my head and cams, just some other relavant info.
Aha! We have run into this problem before.
Try this - turn the CPS gear 180 degrees out, and put it in that way.
PS: Even if you were off by a tooth, you should still be able to see the timing marks...
Try this - turn the CPS gear 180 degrees out, and put it in that way.
PS: Even if you were off by a tooth, you should still be able to see the timing marks...
Xtreme said:
It doesn't matter as long as your crank pulley reads 0 & your timing marks on your cams are lined up with the notches on the back of the timing belt cover (assuming that the cam gears haven't been rotated on the cams).
And assuming that the crank pully hasn't been rotated on the crank.
Sounds unlikely, but this happened on my old 7MGE.
Sounds unlikely, but this happened on my old 7MGE.
Set the crank to 0 deg and remove the oil fill cap. If you can see the lobe on the cam pointing at you, you got the compression stroke...if not you are 180 out.Xtreme said:
well, im sure that I have it set right, tdc compression, cams straight up, cps aligned according to john lunsford, still can't get it timed. Im gonna go crazy...... yeah, still running about 15-20 deg advanced (counterclockwise of the 15 deg mark) just cant seem toi get it there. NA cams wouldn't make a difference, would they? I don't think so, not from what i've heard. help me out here guys and gals... this is my way to work
NA cams will make zero difference.
Worst case... yank the exhaust side valve cover, pull the CPS out slowly, and watch as you rotate it by a single tooth, then put it back in, reassemble, and time it from there.
Worst case... yank the exhaust side valve cover, pull the CPS out slowly, and watch as you rotate it by a single tooth, then put it back in, reassemble, and time it from there.
thanks for all the responses, finally got it timed right yesterday evening. I ended up putting the timing light on it, figuring out where it was firing, marking the cps, taking it out, rotating the engine to 10 deg, and putting the cps in the exact way it came out. Worked like a charm. What a PITA! I still have a few trouble areas such as-
a small back fire which I belive will go away when I fix my exhaust leaks,
hard starting the morning, (starts perfect once warm) I think that is cold start injector maybe, but I could use some input in this case,
and a small hesitation, right off idle, that may be plugs and wires, but once again, opinions are welcome.
a small back fire which I belive will go away when I fix my exhaust leaks,
hard starting the morning, (starts perfect once warm) I think that is cold start injector maybe, but I could use some input in this case,
and a small hesitation, right off idle, that may be plugs and wires, but once again, opinions are welcome.