Strange coolant leak... is this what happens before a BHG?

[acetmi]

Some history of the problem:
----------------------------
About a month ago my car started leaking coolant from underneath, first a drip, and over a few weeks, more of a faster drain. It seemed to be spread out everywhere, when looking from underneath, but seemed to start near the water pump. So I got a new pump.

Today's events:
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Installed the water pump today, as per TSRM. Did a coolant flush too (or at least, just the radiator side), and put only distilled water. After starting up, for the first 10-15 minutes it seemed all was well. And then coolant started consistently dripping/spraying as seen from the undercarriage. The water pump area looks dry, but after lookign around I found the origin of a leak, as seen on the attached photo. I couldn't see the source of the leak, but the red arrow points to the direction of water dripping down from an (unknown) area of the engine. I thought it's the ISC which has a leak somewhere, but the coolant pipes connecting to it were dry. It got late today, so i'll open up the ISC area and check more thoroughly. Any other area around there that I'm missing? This is probably a really dumb question, but can coolant seep/spray/drip out of the engine area itself as a result of BHG?

BHG?
-----
After the flush and the water pump change, the car started out as normal. But when coolant started spraying from the bottom, I saw more white smoke coming out of the exhaust. After a while, though, the coolant leak became an occasional spray, but there was no more white smoke. Remember, there was some coolant left in the system (which could have caused the smoke), but not there's almost 100% water, maybe that's why there's no smoke? Could it be that I have a BHG? I guess I'm just paranoid. I should just take it for a leak-down test. Oh and last summer I tested my compressions: it was ~145 on all six cylinders. This is a 145k engine that has been fully rebuilt 35k miles ago by a Toyota tech, although the car has been literally sitting in a garage for the past 2 years.

Thanks for reading. :1zhelp:

 

[ross1]

there are 3 coolant hoses i think 5/16" that run up in that area near the throttle body and isc they are kind of a bitch to get to since removing the upper intake mani doesn't really help since they are connected to it. i just did mine about two months ago.

ross

 

[wingman]

yeah that's right in the area where the coolant line from the ISC goes into the block. I've heard of people bypassing the TB and ISC coolant lines alltogether by just going strait back into the block...don't know how that would really affect things though.

 

[jdub]

I agree, you likely have a bad hose got to the throttle body, Throttle body to ISC, or ISC to block. I would replace all of them.

Or you can bypass like Wingman said and go straight from the coolant hard line that comes around from the back of the block to the fitting on the forward part of the lower intake manifold runner. If you live in a climate where you have cold winters, keeping the hoses will improve your warm-up time for the motor on cold mornings.

Concerning a BHG...the white smoke could be a couple of things. Is the car over heating? Is coolant being forced out of the overflow bottle? Are you having to add coolant every day? Do a search on BHG and read...the Supra cooling system is one that is prone to problems and it's not necessarily a BHG.

 

[acetmi]

Thanks guys. Today's kind of a cold day (MN), I'll check it up and post what I find.

 

[NDBoost]

werd its more likely those hoses, check them and while your down there, i just routed a line and bypassed the ISC and throttle body..

 

[jdub]

werd its more likely those hoses, check them and while your down there, i just routed a line and bypassed the ISC and throttle body..

Us Arizona dwellers can do that

 

[acetmi]

Update:
--------

So I opened up the ISC, and sure enough, the hose going from the ISC to the underside of the engine (or is it throttle body) was leaking, right next to where it connected to the engine/throttle body. It is a big PITA to remove, and I actually tore the hose where it was leaking. There's still a bit of hose left at the engine side, which I am going to try to get out. I'm thinking not of bypassing the ISC and throttle body, as living in MN and winter conditions may not be too favorable.

While doing all this, there's a red connector that I tore up (see attached pic). I believe the red connector is right next to the knock sensor. Anyone know what that red connector plug is, so that I can order one from Toyota? The torn hose is right behind the red plug, so it can't be seen.

I still can't get to the hose, so I removed the throttle body. Now I'm thinking, while I'm here, why not just remove stuff slowly and change my head gasket? I want to push my car to 400rwhp max, and this car has been sitting in a garage, never started and just rotting away, for the past 2.5 years. The maintenance by previous owner was terrible to say the least. All my cylinders give 145 compression, and I'm wondering whether some valves are leaking due to the fact that the car's been sitting for so long (any ideas here as to the cause of this low compression? The car hardly used to smoke while at idle or driving, although my turbo seals are gone) Plus my turbo needs a rebuild, so it's not like i'm going to get this car running reliably very soon. Unfortunately I'm not a bank, and will not afford a MHG and all the labor for precise milling of the block and stuff that's needed. I'm thinking a stock Toyota head gasket (or should I go for composite, if so, which brand), and change some valves and seals in the process. Let's see how things go...

Oh btw, concerning some BHG questions above:
1. Is the car over heating?
-- Not at all; was running just fine, until it started to leak coolant.
2. Is coolant being forced out of the overflow bottle?
-- Nope.
3. Are you having to add coolant every day?
-- Nope. Although every 2-4 weeks the level did drop such that I had to add a bit of coolant.
4. Did the car exhaust smoke?
-- I've never noticed it, until this Feb when I took it out of storage for the winter, when I first noticed some smoking. Not much, though.
5. Compression?
-- Last summer as it was tested: 145 on all six cylinders.

Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

 

[johnathan1]

that is the Fuel Pressure VSV

And if you decide to go composite with the headgasket, ONLY use an OEM one! Those other ones look comparable, but from what I hear, they are junk... I sprayed Permatex Brake quiet on mine, and used ARP studs torqued to 80ft/lbs. Has been fine.

 

[jdub]

Sounds like your HG is ok...however, the compression is a bit low. The smoke you noticed...does it have a bluish tinge to it? If so, it's oil...could be from the valve seals or rings.

For the short term, a Toyota HG with ARP studs (torqued to 80 ft/lbs w/ moly) like Jonathan said will work well. If it was me, I would take the head down to a good machinist and get a valve job done and the seals replaced while it's off the car.

Those hoses are a PITA...go through and replace all of them, plus the short ones that go from the rear of the head to the coolant pipe around the motor and the one just behind the water pump to the same coolant pipe. Easy to do with the head off Heck, given this car sat for so long, I'd replace every hose I could get my hands on...especially coolant ones. Blowing a coolant hose can be death for this motor

BTW...hit Tubbie up for the connector. He has a couple parts cars and might be able to help you out.

 

[Allan_MA70]

looks like the need a new loom!

 

[acetmi]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the tips. I have almost gotten the head off, will take it to a machinist to be lapped. I have decided to go the extra mile (and a lot more in the bank account) and put a MHG. After I get the head off, I'll have to decide whether I need to take the block to be lapped as well. As for the smoke, I really didn't notice any bluish tinge on it, although I must add that my turbo seals are blown (shaft moves about ~1mm or so) and there's an oil lining all over my IC pipes. Maybe that's causing the smoke.

Anyways, my plan is to get new valve stem seals, just in case they are leaking. This engine had been rebuilt about 30k miles ago with a used long block, and right now i don't have the money for changing piston rings as such. So I'll leave the block with hopefully just a lapping job, if needed.

I was reading some forums about choosing a gasket kit. The Toyota gasket kit quote is $245, the Ishino/OEM kit online is about $160 or so. Some people are saying they are both the same, but no confirmation here. Can someone confirm this 100% please?I need to save as much as possible, but I do not want to cut corners and have to open this engine 1000 miles later...

Thanks again guys.

acetmi

 

[jdub]

If you are going the MHG route, decking the head and block to the RA spec for the MHG used is required...otherwise the MHG will not seal properly. What MHG are you using?

Replacing the valve seals on the head is a good thing...consider having a 3 angle job done while it is off. Make sure the valves are shimmed to the middle of spec range. I'd check the shim clearances & cam retainer torque before you put the head on. You using ARP studs or bolts? Doesn't matter, but the studs are better...just use the ARP spec for the one's you're using.

Check your exhaust manifold studs...these like to strip :naughty:

I would use the Toyota gasket kit...call Jeff at Champion Toyota. It comes with a stock HG...sell it on eBay for about $30