Still not starting .Help please

[aloshan]

Hey guys

OK I'm at my wits end.... I've tried everything suggested and the only thing I can think of now is to pull all wiring out and start again.

Ive taken everything everyone else has said on board and don't know where to turn next

I have been advised by mkiiichip and others to fix the parasitic drain first but Im unable to find it! Im not getting ANY reading on my multimeter in amps and im sure the multimeter is working correctly. This is extremely frustrating.

To simplify :

Replaced starter
Done 30am starter mod
Replaced Battery
Fixed up/cleaned and tightened battery terminals and ground from battery to chassis

Car will only start if jump started but starts perfectly when jump started each and every time.

Car will make a click sound when I turn the key. This problem is NOT intermittent , it will NEVER start on its own power
.
Large parasitic drain confirmed(drop from 12v to 7v overnight with battery connected and car off)...dont know where from....but will continue looking

If starter is tapped with a hammer the car WILL start ( this leads me to believe its definitely a solenoid sticking problem but the guy who refurbished my starter is adamant it was working correctly when it left his shop. Either way Ive got a warranty so its at his shop now so he can check and confirm 100%

According to almost everyone,it seems like the next step for me here is to get another multimeter and work on finding the parasitic drain . Once that is done I can isolate why the starter isn't working or the drain might be the cause by itself.

Could it be the actual ignition switch? Not expensive but I know throwing parts at the problem is the worse way to go - which ive basically already done - replacing the two most expensive parts in the circuit.

What I'm asking is , any other tips? Advice? Suggestions as to why Im reading NO amps when using my multimeter to measure the drain? Come across this before?

Sorry if this post is amazingly similar to my previous ones, Ive tried everything, don't really have the funds for an auto electrician and don't have any mechanically minded people around my area to help me out. For those interested in MK3's , Sydney sucks. Man I wish I lived in Socal....everyone is always willing to lend a hand and everything supra related is so damn cheap

 

[jetjock]

Check the fuses in your meter. Due to poor handling practices when doing current measurements it's not uncommon to find them blown.

 

[CyFi6]

If you want to rule out the wiring, do a volt drop on the circuit. First ensure the battery is fully charged and in good working order. With the key in the crank position put one volt meter lead on the ground terminal of the battery and one on the starter case, shouldn't be any more than about half a volt. Now put one lead on the positive battery post and one on the positive stud of the starter, again no more than about half a volt, and do the same with the trigger terminal, backprobe the brown connector that slides onto the starter. If any significant voltage drop is found you have narrowed your search. If not there is an issue with the starter.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

If starter is tapped with a hammer the car WILL start ( this leads me to believe its definitely a solenoid sticking problem but the guy who refurbished my starter is adamant it was working correctly when it left his shop. Either way Ive got a warranty so its at his shop now so he can check and confirm 100%

It was rebuilt? If it was, get another one, get him to redo it or get your money back. The solenoid is obviously sticking. I posted in your other thread about a battery to engine block ground cable. The battery to chassis is important but it does little to anything for the starter. Check the engine block ground cable to the battery and make sure its good.

If that checks out, you need a new starter. You should not have to hit the starter for it to start.

 

[jetjock]

If you want to rule out the wiring, do a volt drop on the circuit......

That post brings a tear to my eye. Just remember for drop testing to be effective there must be current flow.

 

[aloshan]

It was rebuilt? If it was, get another one, get him to redo it or get your money back. The solenoid is obviously sticking. I posted in your other thread about a battery to engine block ground cable. The battery to chassis is important but it does little to anything for the starter. Check the engine block ground cable to the battery and make sure its good.

If that checks out, you need a new starter. You should not have to hit the starter for it to start.

Ok , will check the battery to engine block ground cable and confirm that its ok. Yes it seems like the starter is bad , dont worry , I called " warranty" immediately and sent it back for HIM to confirm that its working since and fix it if its not , since thats what he was paid for.

Ok so other then doing a voltage test(which is pretty difficult since Im not even reading amps on my multimeter though I know there is a MAJOR parasitic drain somewhere) and checking ground and a bad starter...anything else

Could a replacement of this possibly solve the problem or not even worth looking at?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300523970364?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[CyFi6]

That post brings a tear to my eye. Just remember for drop testing to be effective there must be current flow.

Lol it's a happy tear I hope! And yeah, it is critical the key is in the crank position while doing the tests.