Starter working, but not with the key

[ForcedTorque]

As some of you know, my 90 Supra was recently smashed, and I am putting together my 87 for transportation.

I have the motor in the car, and all I get out of the key is a click out of the starter relay, and a static noise in the dash. I have checked grounds everywhere I remember there should be one. Here are the ones i have checked:

1. at the Coil
2. turbo side of motor to firewall
3. driver side between the tranny and the frame
4.at the tranny crossmember
5. small wires running to both battery cables at the battery
6. the ground wires running to the intake manifold from the wiring harness

If there is another ground somewhere, can anyone enlighten me.

I have run a wire from my positive battery post to the starter, and the starter does work that way. It spun over fine, but didn't start. While doing this, the key was in the on position. I pulled the EFI fuse, and let it spin to circulate some oil before starting. But, after a good bit of that, I put the EFI back in. I was not able to get it to actually start. Should it be able to start like this? I'm not sure if I flooded it trying, or if fuel is even flowing. I had to cut part of the fuel line going back in, because the threads were in bad shape. Maybe this allowed a good bit of air into the system.

I need help with grounds, or on how to get it to start with a key. Will jumping the clutch safety switch do it? Is that just an easy way to get around using all of your grounds? I'd rather do it right, rather than short cut it to hide a problem.

Sorry this is so long, but I wanted to give as much info as I could. For those with help, bear with me, I know the car pretty well, but I'm not the greatest mechanic around, so some advanced terms may not be understood. I don't need to be tottally babied, I've parted 10 Supras, so I do know a little.

 

[tekdeus]

I might suggest wiring up your own starter relay circuit, which is normally used to solve the inevitable hot start problems in Mk3's. I did this and it fixed my intermittent starting issue: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2593146

(I think our starter wire at the ignition is black with a white stripe, but double check that)

It might not get the car started, but at least you can turn the starter every time without fail.

 

[Steve_N]

I had the same problem & it turned out to be a bad ign. wire. The following post by Jeff (jtamulis) let me know how to fix it.


""Fix 1:
I have:
Installed a new starter, ignition switch and replaced the negative cable connector-this solved it for 2 weeks.\Then on a hot day this week, it would make a noise at the starter relay in passenger side kick panel(this is normal), had all lights, no dimming on full ignition turn of the key.)
I got a mechanic to get underneath and jump the solonoid.
Today, per this threads instructions:
I went to Kragen auto supply (go to Lowes, its cheaper)
I bought a splicer to tap into the existing 12 gauge wire(they are in the electrical area, make sure its for 12 gauge, is yellow little plastic box approx 1''x1"x1/2" , you place both wires inside the box, press down on metal tab and instant splice, fold over and it locks in place.
electrical tape,
12 guage red wire.

Pull out snap in wire that goes to solonoid on the starter, pull it up so you can access it standing up beside engine compartment,
splice red wire onto the first 3 inches close to the snap in clip. Now run the wire under vacuum brake canister and into the firewall(see rubber plug on firewall)
Now remove plastic coverings under steering wheel, pull out ignition switch. You will look for thick black with white stripe wire. It should lead to the "START 1" terminal on ignition switch.
Tap (splice into that wire) with the red wire and presto , you are in heaven.
Note: make sure you test the correct wire as follows:
Remove wire from starter solonoid for now.
Get volt meeter, make sure you have a GOOD ground to voltmeter and put positive probe on the black/white wire and have someone turn switch with slotted screwdriver, you WILL get 12 volts only when turned all the way.

Note: my mechanic noted that the ignition switch has a START 1 and START 2 terminal . The START 2 terminal is not used, but can be jumped to enlist that to augment the START 1 terminal. This has nothing to do with the problem above, just extra info.
Thank you to several posters who told me to do this. I am just elaborating a little. By the way, make sure you tape all connections well to prevent any oil from getting on them. I also noted that I have a small oil drip that looks like its coming down on my electrical wiring from the intake manifold area. Could be source of poor connections.
IF YOU dont hear from me again, IT WORKED!!!!!
It should!!!
You guys are great.

#2
BTW just an update, the main ground and power wires
to the starter and block go weak over time. I have had this
problem on many supras in the past, a simple fix is to replace
the main starter wire (the big one), and add a second, and then
replace the main ground, and add a second, once that's done
a LOT of little "strange" wiring issues comepletely dissapear.

Just so you all know, I've proven this time and time again.
I find a solution, and stick with it. Just like my wastegate
solutions.

Jeff
jtamulis ""

 

[aljordan]

Try to lock the car doors, let the alarm set (flashing LED on dash) and then unlock the doors.

SOunds like the alarm could be cutting off the signal. It would be an easy fix if it was this.

 

[supra90turbo]

As tekdeus mentioned, put your own relay in for the starter circuit.
The starter signal wire will slowly kill itself over time, as it's only like 22awg wire.