starter motor removal woes

souprat

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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fairfax VA
i'm trying to put in my spec stage 2 today but the starter is being a bitch. i've read all about the "greased up ninja hands" you need to reach the top bolt on the starter but i just am at a loss as to how to get that thing off. i can touch the nut and the bolt with my finger(with a whole lotta effort) but i can't really figure out how to get a wrench around it. what is the best way to go about this? from above the car? below it? i want specifics, did you use a wrench or a ratchet? i know people have done this before and it's not impossible but it shure seems like it. thanks for the help.
 

northsupra

Normally Insane
Mar 30, 2005
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Norway
That one sure is a bitch... but here is how i did it.
I tok a wrench and jamed it to the side of the mount (just turn the nutt so that it sticks inn place or you could have a friend hold the wrench) and went under the car, took the route up bye the tranny and loosened the bolt with a bunch of extensions.
 

northsupra

Normally Insane
Mar 30, 2005
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Norway
Oh i just recalled that when i put it to gether again i used som extensions that i layed over the starter. A real pain with all the wires and holding up the starter.
 

soup

fiend
Apr 4, 2005
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Vancouver
I just used a closed ended wrench on the engine side and ~2ft of extensions with a universal (swivel) joint on the tranny side. yes it's a pita, I've recently bought some ratcheting wrenches so I'm actually looking forwards to the next time I have to pull it. Good luck.
 

LexingtonBlue

New Member
May 30, 2005
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Tacoma
Ya, I've done it before (infront of a supermarket for hours :icon_bigg ). It's a pain in the buttocks. I'll try my best to be specific, gonna be long though.

(You can use a long, long-ass extension for the top bolt/nut. If you have it, then insert it from the front end, just below the alternator. If don't have, then do what I did).


The only way for me to do it was from the top. I removed the coolant hose (carefully) that connects at the driver's side firewall (and any other vaccum hose<s> ) around that area, so that I could have an easier reach and enough room to unwind the bolt. You won't get a lot of room, but you'll have just enough for one crank/click (using socket/ratchet), which is better than nothing, lol. You will not be able to unwind the boltif you stuck you arm underneath the manifold.

I used a socket (13 or 14). First, I'd find the bolt with the socket, only. Once found, and inserted, I then attached the stick (ratchet?), and then unwind . It'll be easier if you had a long ratchet for the socket, but not too long. If you want to use a wrench, you will need one that is bent at an angle (a regular will hit the manifold when you unwind). This will take a while until the bolt is loosen enough to unwind with fingers.

Once the bolt has loosen enough, put a wrench on the opposite side to hold the nut, while you unwind the bolt. Keep holding the wrench tight while you unwind the bolt with your fingers, it will eventually come apart.

Bottom bolt and nut:
I had to go underneath the car in order to get these out. I used a socket on the bolt side, and held the nut side with a wrench while unwinding it.

Negative nut at bottom of starter:
Don't forget to get this nut out before removing the starter. Use a 13 wrench/socket.

Once you get the negative wire (ringed-end) out, the starter should come loose. All you need is a light pull.

Getting the starter out of engine bay(fun part):
The starter can only be pulled out from the bottom (similar to removing the oil filter). You gotta play some twist and turn on the starter in order for it to fit through the bottom opening.

I started from the top. Pulled the starter out from its place, then I gave it a 90 degree verticle turn (so that the crank faces up), then I carefully let it sit.

Then I went underneath the car. Grabbed starter's bottom and pulled down. This is when you gotta do some twisting while slowly pulling it down. Do whatever it takes, as long as you don't break or damage those wires (you'll see what I mean).

Install is just the opposite. I'd screw up the bottom bolt and nuts first, but not tight yet, not until the top bolt and nut are screw in.

That was hella long, but I hope it made sense and helped. :aigo:
 

souprat

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Mar 30, 2005
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fairfax VA
damn LexingtonBlue, thats great stuff. one of my friends came up with the idea of using one of those bent box end wrenches, i think i might give that a try. thanks for all the input everyone. i'm gonna give it a go on sunday and i'll be damned if i let the sun go down before the starter is on my garage floor. i'll post when i find what works for me.
 

souprat

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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fairfax VA
ok, i started working today at 12:30, it's now 5:30 and i just got it out. what i did was what the "20 steps to clutch removal". i took the rear tranny support off while supporting the tranny on a scissors jack. i then lovered the jack which tips the tranny and engine assembally back a few degrees. when i did this i could look up the drivers side of the tranny and just bairly see the bolt. i then got about a foot and a half of extenchions and a swivel socket and fished it up there, got a friend to hold the nut by reaching his hands down by the master cylender and holding the nut with a wrench. man what a pain. i would rather be kicked in the nuts then do that again. thanks everyone for your replys. now i'm off to get at the bellhousing bolts and i hope to have the fw out by tonight!
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
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Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
Starter woes again! :)

This is really easy. For future reference, it's fastest with two people and a large selection of ratchet extensions.

1. Leave the car in gear and set the E-brake.
2. Jack up the drivers side of the car, put it on a jack stand.
3. Mechanic #1 slides under the car and puts a wrench on the rear of either the top or bottom bolt.
4. Mechanic #2 will need a stool to stand on.
5. Mechanic #2 puts a socket on a wobble end 12 inch extension and feeds that along the starter onto a bolt. When it's on there, hold it in place with your right hand and pick up another extension with your left. Feed the new extension in between the A/C compressor and the alternator until you can snap it into the first. Repeat until your extensions are beyond the alternator, where you have lots of room.
5. Snap in your ratchet head and remove that bolt.
6. Pull all the extensions out and setup for the other bolt in the same way.

The second mechanic can help with the bottom bolt, as seeing that from the top of the bay is impossible, and turning it from the bottom is tough as well. Just slide the extension / socket combo in blind from the top, and the guy under the car will slide it into place for you.

I can pull the starter with a friend in 10 minutes, about 25 if I'm alone. (I've never tried it alone, to be honest.)
 

gixxer750

2jzget comingsoon!
Mar 30, 2005
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Mississippi
something I'd like to add that I don't think has been said. Remove the rear knock sensor before starting. I broke mine by mistake......