If I accellerate to 3000Rpm+ the car simply dies. This is only under load, I can however rev it ro redline at a standstill. Timing is dead on, my brother thinks it could be the distributor. Any ideas? The exhaust definitely is not clogged as I have pulled it. I dont see how clogged injectors would cause this and run fine at lower rpm's Anything else ignition related I should check? Could bit be the TPS?
Stalling under accelleration
- Thread starter RIPDOTCOM
- Start date
Check your engine error codes. Have you ever changed your fuel filter? When was the last time in miles that you changed your plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor?
Bishop92t said:
Changed everything a few weeks ago. No error codes. Suspecting clogged injectors.
Pretty hard to narrow it down at this point. It's pretty uncommon to clog the injectors as the fuel filter usually catches all the debris.
So underload, say 2000-3000 rpm the car accelerates fine and then falls on its face at 3k? Or anytime it gets load it dies? Any strange smells from the car? What do you have the timing set at with T1 and E1 jumpered?
So underload, say 2000-3000 rpm the car accelerates fine and then falls on its face at 3k? Or anytime it gets load it dies? Any strange smells from the car? What do you have the timing set at with T1 and E1 jumpered?
Dirty Fuel filters can cause your problem. They can also act up intermittantly. You can drive for awhile, then the dirt finally covers up the filter material, and 'bam', car starts die-ing out.
Also, the very first thought that came to mind was TPS. I had an '87 N/A in the shop last week that had exactly the same problem as yours. =TPS. We put an after market one in, $135 list price (you can get it cheaper and put it in yourself). Ran perfect after that.:biglaugh:
Check your codes. He had a code for TPS.
Also, the very first thought that came to mind was TPS. I had an '87 N/A in the shop last week that had exactly the same problem as yours. =TPS. We put an after market one in, $135 list price (you can get it cheaper and put it in yourself). Ran perfect after that.:biglaugh:
Check your codes. He had a code for TPS.
I had something similar happen with the TPS in mine but it gave no codes for some reason. Turns out, the TPS was fried and could barely be turned. They spent months trying to figure it out but charged me next to nothing for the diagnostic work when it was all done.
Depends on how the TPS fails. If the IDL contact stays closed when the trottle is opened the ecu will go into fuel cut at around 2000 rpm but the MIL won't come on.
I am leaning toward the TPS and I can pull the one of of my 88 and try it but would a bad TPS still allow me to rev to redline while out of gear under no load? If so this sounds like the problem because I can rev it fine while out of gear.
Was that question directed at me? The situation I described in the post above will happen whether the car is in gear or not. Frankly, I doubt it's your TPS but the easiest way to settle this is simply unplug it and drive the car. If the problem remains, it's not the TPS. You should be able to drive the car all day long with the TPS disconnected and not notice much of a difference (other than idle) from normal. Cleck for codes after you do this and clear any found.
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Seems to me that in the past I had bought an auto that needed a tune up and you would have thought it needed a new guel filter because of the way it kept cutting out along with a seeming lack of power. An all around tune up cleared that shit straight up. One time I had some work done to the auto and it wasn't running right afterward so I took it back and the timming was adjusted and it was tip top after those two things. It was a ford econoline though. Very diferent auto. I feel like the same principles might apply to your situation. It's just my opinion and there is a reason it is free.
The fuel filter in these cars is hard to change and often ignored. An easy way to check it's health is to flow test the fuel inlet into a jug. You can also check it by by using a current meter in place of the FP jumper but you'll have to factor the pump's condition into the measurement. If you use a current probe and a scope you can tell all kinds of things about the condition of the fuel pump, everything from bad brushes to bad bearings.