So it's time to change my timing belt and I was wondering what SST do I need. I was looking at the TSRM and it said it need like 9 different kind of SST. How long does it take for the timing belt job. Thanks.
SST for timing belt change?
- Thread starter oscar35783
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There aren't any special tools that you need. But you should have automotive tools.
Before you take the belt off, line the top cams to TDC. Then mark the lower pulley with white out, or something similar, so you know where the lower pulley goes.
Before you take the belt off, line the top cams to TDC. Then mark the lower pulley with white out, or something similar, so you know where the lower pulley goes.
I used nothing special aside from a puller for the harmonic balancer. The balancer slides on and off, but after being there for years, will need some help to come off. I rigged up a 2 jaw puller that worked for me.
Just did mine...took about 4-5 hours. I had to remove my radiator; it's a dual core and got in the way...removing it also allowed me to use Mr. Air Impact Wrench on the crank bolt 
I just tapped the damper off with a rubber hammer...came off easy, but you may need a puller.
The lower timing cover can be a PITA...there's a small weep hole in the bottom, I got a small screwdriver and pried there 1st to get it started. Do a good inspection of your belt tensioning pulley, the crank timing belt gear, and associated keyways.
I replaced all my belts, since they have to come off anyway. It's critical to get the timing marks lined up on their respective indexes like Nick said. The keyways will also line up on an index just above the crank timing belt gear...it matches the damper index on the zero mark on the lower timing cover.
The stock damper should tap back on easily...use some anti-seize compound on the inside of the damper where it slips over the crank. Make sure to torque the damper to spec...it's a lot...195 ft/lbs!
I just tapped the damper off with a rubber hammer...came off easy, but you may need a puller. The lower timing cover can be a PITA...there's a small weep hole in the bottom, I got a small screwdriver and pried there 1st to get it started. Do a good inspection of your belt tensioning pulley, the crank timing belt gear, and associated keyways.
I replaced all my belts, since they have to come off anyway. It's critical to get the timing marks lined up on their respective indexes like Nick said. The keyways will also line up on an index just above the crank timing belt gear...it matches the damper index on the zero mark on the lower timing cover.
The stock damper should tap back on easily...use some anti-seize compound on the inside of the damper where it slips over the crank. Make sure to torque the damper to spec...it's a lot...195 ft/lbs!
I have automotive tools. I just didn't know if I need the special tool to do it properly. My buddy should be here pretty soon to give me a hand. OMG, did you say it took you 4-5hrs. :cry: I was hoping I'll be in and out in a couple of hours.
Well...I tend to be pretty thorough and triple check everything It's the slow down and do it faster way of thinking...that way, I usually don't have to do it again. For example, I put a dial indicator w/ extension on the #1 piston to check actual DTC, made absolutely sure the indexes were lined up, and pulled the CPS cover to make sure it lined up as well.
Plus, I have the TRSM open and read it a couple of times...and, I like to clean things up as I go.
You can probably do it 3-4 hours...just don't get in too much of a hurry or the 7M gods will bite ya.
And oh, BTW, I have a lift in my garage too :naughty:
It's the slow down and do it faster way of thinking...that way, I usually don't have to do it again. For example, I put a dial indicator w/ extension on the #1 piston to check actual DTC, made absolutely sure the indexes were lined up, and pulled the CPS cover to make sure it lined up as well.Plus, I have the TRSM open and read it a couple of times...and, I like to clean things up as I go.
You can probably do it 3-4 hours...just don't get in too much of a hurry or the 7M gods will bite ya.
And oh, BTW, I have a lift in my garage too :naughty:
WHY DO IT MORE THAN ONCE........
replace:
the t-belt tensioner
cam and crank seals
3 drive belts
a/c belt tension pulley
upper hose
3-4hrs 1st time....1.5-2hrs after that.
replace:
the t-belt tensioner
cam and crank seals
3 drive belts
a/c belt tension pulley
upper hose
3-4hrs 1st time....1.5-2hrs after that.
ok, got done with the timing belt change. I manage to break one of the wires on the plug for the alternator but i sodered it back. We fired it up and check the timing with timing light. It seem it's misfiring. I check with the timing gun and it was jumping back and forth from 13-15 degreee. I adjusted the cps and got it down to 10-12 degreee, still jumping. What can be causing this? I guess I need to double check it again tomorrow to make sure the crank pulley and cam gear are at the right mark. Anybody got any idea?
Well, first thought is...battery disconnected means the car must be driven and restarted a few times for the ECU to 're-learn' its drive pattern.
Although, the usual problem is a 'no idle' and/or stall for a while.
How long did it take you to do the job???
How was the tensioner???
Seals??
Although, the usual problem is a 'no idle' and/or stall for a while.
How long did it take you to do the job???
How was the tensioner???
Seals??
Yes, the battery was disconnected. I didn't know that the ECU has to relearn. It does have a rough idle. LOL, took about 5 hours. We took our time and too many breaks. The tensioner and seal are good. So I should double check my marks tomorrow and if it ok then take it for a drive so the ECU can relearn. If that does not fix than I have other problems?
All right, I got it working now. I'm such an idiot. While I was taking off the alternator I accidently uplug the #1 injector plug. LOL. Thanks for all the help.
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