Sounds like a knock but its not. info please

[BlueRolex007]

I rebuilt my 7mgte engine about 2 weeks ago, new bearings all within specs new rings, Everything was done the right way. Everything torqued down to specs.

I started it up had a terrible knock drove it a lil, same thing. Pulled engine out and put it on the engine stand. Pulled oil pan off, removed all rod end caps to inspect bearings they are all in perfect shape wtf. Does anybody know what this may be??? :3d_frown:

And i bought this car in pieces before so I never heard it run before this.

 

[STREET90]

Piston slap? I got that when I first started my car, the machine shop screwed up on that

 

[hvyman]

What were the clearances specifically?
Mains and rods.
Was the oil pump ds bearings good? Or replaced?
Motor mounts good?
Valves adjusted?
Does the knock go up with rpm?
Did you prime the oil system before starting?

 

[MK3Hitman21]

Also check the catalyic converter coulld be busted and your pipes have that hard shit in it.

 

[GrimJack]

Other things that commonly sound like rod knock are loose flywheel / flexplate bolts and loose front main damper pulley.

 

[BlueRolex007]

the mains were .0025 and (.0020 i believe on number 1 and 3)
the rods were .0015 all the way down
Brand new oil pump
motor mounts are fine

I did nothing to the head as far as adjusting the valves. The head is off my friends 7m and it ran fine when we pulled it.

And the knock yes the faster the rpm the faster the knock.

I did prime it before start up.

And i just took the flywheel of to make sure all bolts were tight.

And like I said i pulled all the end caps off rods and mains looking for damage and nothing they look in perfect condition. I have no clue what this could be. Is it possible for the crank itself to be bent somehow?

---------- Post added at 05:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:53 PM ----------

I also checked the main pulley, bolt was tight and no play in the damper. And my car does not have a cat or a muffler for that matter the exaust comes out in front of the passenger tire and its straight through lol.

 

[hvyman]

There is thrust washers for the crank right?

Does it go away when you push the clutch in?

 

[BlueRolex007]

yes i put the thrust washers in.When I pressed the clutch the noise stayed the same, There has to be something wrong in there but I did everything correct and to spec I dunno :dunno: At first I thought what your thinking, perhaps the tranny or clutch but nope stayed the same. Sighzzz,,,, I really need this car done I think ima just break down and order a JDM put in a MHG my ARP's and my turbo kit and go.

I just dont have the time or patience to keep messin with this knockin ass motor..

---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

And to top it all off I get to listen to my GF bitch see I told you, you shoulda got something that ran blah blah blah.:bigun2:

 

[IJ.]

yes i put the thrust washers in.When I pressed the clutch the noise stayed the same, There has to be something wrong in there but I did everything correct and to spec I dunno :dunno: At first I thought what your thinking, perhaps the tranny or clutch but nope stayed the same. Sighzzz,,,, I really need this car done I think ima just break down and order a JDM put in a MHG my ARP's and my turbo kit and go.

I just dont have the time or patience to keep messin with this knockin ass motor..

---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

And to top it all off I get to listen to my GF bitch see I told you, you shoulda got something that ran blah blah blah.:bigun2:

What's she doing out of the kitchen?

Have a look at the dipstick for any marks, sometimes if the lower tube is missing it can "knock"..

 

[hvyman]

Ya i wouldnt even bother with the jdm engines. There a joke for the 7m half of the time. And to use a mhg properly you will have to disassemble the block anyways to machine the block for the mhg.

What pistons were used? Any marks on the cylinders?

 

[BlueRolex007]

I used stock pistons they were used but they were in good shape, no major scuffs or wear or anything crazy like that. I honed the block myself it looked good when it went together. I have not taken the head of the block yet so I didnt get to see the cylinder walls since the rebuild. And yes i have the lower dipstick tube in. Why do you say the JDM engines are a joke? Are they junk? Or are they more like mystery engines, who knows what your getting. And if that is the case where can i buy a trusted low mileage engine from, for a reasonable price?

 

[hvyman]

Mystery engine. Doubt any of them are low milage these days. 7m hasnt been used for over 15 years so what ever is coming through is the left overs.

You can look at the cylinders through the bottom if you have the pan off.

 

[BlueRolex007]

Yea i was looking at them through the bottom as much as I could see anyway, they looked good same as the day I honed em. Yea that is true 15yo engines low mileage 30-40 thousand yea right.

 

[grimreaper]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=72

Why such a large clearance on the mains? what oil weight?

 

[FloTex]

I had the same problem. 7MGTE also- 1989. Ended up being the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. Bought a new one- it is awesome and solved the problem- but it's not cheap.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Toyota/Supra_MK3/Engine/Harmonic_Balancers
I'd do a search on symptoms and diagnostics to confirm. Just feeling the play doesn't tell the story since it is under load and torsion when running. The rubber bushing wears out after years of service.

 

[BlueRolex007]

This crank was ground, it was in the engine before I bought the car to .5 and then I sent it to machine shop they polished it. It was within specs just barely but, I didnt have the money to go buy a new crank. Figured you know the machine shop guys said it would be fine. Plus its the main bearings the rod bearings were in good spec and thats more likely to go bad than a main. I will have to look into this pulley more deeply I just dont wanna buy a pulley then drop the motor back in and you know (surprise still knocks) :3d_frown:

---------- Post added at 11:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 PM ----------

And my GF still bitchin I think ima have to dump her so I can spend more time with my Supra. :naughty:

 

[FloTex]

Don't forget to listen to the ac compressor, power steering pump and alternator also- just to make sure. Attach a timing light and see if the mark moves in any way indicating the balancer is loose or bushing is worn out. (Do the other balancer diagnostics also though.) BTW, my balancer noise sounded like a rod bearing. I tore it back down and replaced bearings that checked out very good with Clevites and still had the problem when I restarted. And I agree- definately check the pulley completely out! It is too expensive to just get to eliminate a possibility.

 

[BlueRolex007]

Yes I agree and I appreciate the advice and moral boost. Ima look into it more deeply tommorow, By chance if it is something in the engine and I do decide to get a fresh bottom end. Any recomendations on where I could get a 7mgte reman block at a resonable price? Also I am saving up for the 2j swap but its gonna be expensive and doing the research so I am just slowly buying parts mounts/1j bell housing etc. That wont be ready till like this time next year. Thats why I just want a good 7m for now. I think a reman block might be less expensive than a machine shop rebuild, plus I need this car done like yesterday. It is my only car for now I not have a DD.

 

[hvyman]

No one remans blocks.

IF the mains were out of spec there out of spec. Having to loose of a main bearing will cause knock. Rod knock happens either from bhg, running low on oil, or improper bearing clearances. These motors dont just get it for a reason like people think.

 

[bioskyline]

a video of the noise would be a help.