Shimming Valves...

[fiyota]

Anbody have any tips on how to shim the valves? I've got quite a bit of valve noise and I was wonderin if this was something I could do in my driveway... I'm just guessing but, does it go along these lines...

1. Disconnect Vaccume lines and any wires
2. Remove Y-pipe and upper intake mani
3. Remove valve covers
4. use feeler gauge to see how big of shims to use
5. Insert shims
6. Put back together

just guessing on it... also, the valve seals and the valve cover gasket where just done (should have got them to do it when the motor was apart for my bhg job doh!) anyways... do I need to worry about the new gasket and seals?

Sorry about the haggard post, I'm halfway through my day at school and I'm working on 3 hours of sleep so i'm kinda tired... reading another's post about valve shimming got me interested since I have to do mine..

Thanks a lot guys, sorry for the long post!

 

[Bishop92t]

A micrometer is also required to know what thickness is of the shims you are removing as well as to verify you're putting the correct size back in.. Make sure you write down all the numbers in a chart. It's easier to figure the proper size with a chart to compare to the TSRM chart.

Your seals should be fine for at least a few years.

 

[fiyota]

alright, I was just worried about damaging them, or if you had to replace them once you take the intake manifold off.

thanks bishop!

 

[Bishop92t]

They usually come off in one piece if they aren't too old. It's when they stick to metal and tear that you've got problems, or when they are hard and brittle...

 

[rot 90na-t]

yep its a PITA but u pretty much got it.. the shims just pop out of the lifter.. remove cam, remove shim, measure the old shim, insert new ones, replace cam, re measure blah blah, it takes soo long:cry:

 

[rot 90na-t]

and to think my na engine blew a valve seal or a ring (dont know which yet) not 7000 miles after a complete fresh rebuild :icon_evil

oh well, just gives me the excuse to go turbo:evil2:

 

[ratpick63]

Yeah what they said. I just went through a whole fiasco starting with "valvetrain noise" but after eventually swapping on another head it was still there- rods!?! But when I first measured my shims I just loosened the timing belt and camshaft caps but didn't pull cams out, just raised them up enough to slide shims out. Didn't have to undo rear timing cover, cam gear or belt. And don't try to save $$ by cutting off pieces of feeler gauge to shim up your shims or you'll get this: