Shifting to reverse problematic

[TomFraser]

When I start my car it is inside a garage and I must backup... if I put the clutch down (obviously all the way) and attempt to put the car in reverse, I get a noise (not very loud, but a grinding, with vibrations I can feel in the drivers seat) and then it shifts and runs fine.

When I Push the clutch and shift to any other gear (usually 3rd) then continue holding the clutch and shift to reverse it works fine.

However if I pick the clutch up after doing this, then go to neutral I have to do the third then reverse trick.


Any ideas what this might be? It is no problem for me to do this, however It shouldn't be happening and I do not want the problem to escalate.


Thanks!
(If anyone requests I can record the noise, but I do not like making it)

Tom Fraser

 

[TomFraser]

Also I have my air intake looking like this:

does anyone know what specific part that is? I do not want to take duct tape off the previous owner put on until I can replace the part.

Thanks!

 

[cuel]

Push in the clutch, put it in reverse, hold the clutch while you start the car. Reverse can be a pain, but I don't recall feeling a vibration in mine.

For the intake, you can get a new boot at the dealer. They can print you a pic. with part numbers, and you tell them which one you want.

 

[TomFraser]

the problem is that I feel grinding and vibration that are not normal... I know how to drive stick

the noise occurs even before I let go of the clutch... it occurs when moving the stick into reverse (AND THE CLUTCH IS ALL THE WAY DOWN), and to be honest I do not have much experience with mechanics so I do not know what the problem could even be.


Thanks for the reply about the boot though

 

[cuel]

Ok, ok. No need to get mad, just yankin' your chain a bit. Not sure about the vibration and grind. Could be a worn shift fork and a bad mount, or a bearing issue inside the case. You should probably stop at a trans. shop, and let them take a look at it.

 

[CRE]

I'd check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder.... the clutch may not be disengaging all the way. The fluid reservoir is the clear funnel with black plastic cap mounted in the engine bay on the firewall, driver's side.

 

[DegreE]

I get a loud grind every time I try to get it into reverse. Every other gear is flawless. Sometimes it wont even go in.

 

[CRE]

Straight cut gear and no syncros, IIRC, not 100% sure I'm not a transmission guy. Pop the tranny into first real quick, then shift... a LOT of cars are like that. It's nothing new. I never get a grind when I try to go into reverse and the clutch pressed though.

 

[TomFraser]

Push in the clutch, put it in reverse, hold the clutch while you start the car. Reverse can be a pain, but I don't recall feeling a vibration in mine.

For the intake, you can get a new boot at the dealer. They can print you a pic. with part numbers, and you tell them which one you want.

Ok, ok. No need to get mad, just yankin' your chain a bit. Not sure about the vibration and grind. Could be a worn shift fork and a bad mount, or a bearing issue inside the case. You should probably stop at a trans. shop, and let them take a look at it.

not mad at all... just trying to make myself clear... it's hard to express emotions on the internet :icon_bigg


Thanks for all the advice given above... At least I know it happens to other supras

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

How long has it been since you changed your fluid? Sometime fresh fluid can make a difference. Most like Redline MT-90 from what I've seen on here.

 

[TomFraser]

How long has it been since you changed your fluid? Sometime fresh fluid can make a difference. Most like Redline MT-90 from what I've seen on here.

just topped it off, because it was low... I will try changing fluid and post what happens here


Thanks

 

[CRE]

At least I know it happens to other supras

Indeed, but so do engine fires... so I wouldn't just assume that because it happens to someone else it's fine.

I'd would check master cylinder levels, then change out the oil and then take it to a shop for a look over.

I do like MT-90, BTW.

 

[TomFraser]

Indeed, but so do engine fires... so I wouldn't just assume that because it happens to someone else it's fine.

I'd would check master cylinder levels, then change out the oil and then take it to a shop for a look over.

I do like MT-90, BTW.

by that I meant that if it has happened to others then others are more likely to have a solution.

If I post symptoms and no one has seen them on a supra before, then something is probably really wrong because this forum has more knowledge of this particuar car than toyota/any garage :love:

 

[Scot]

This might be a stretch, but did you try releasing the parking break before you try to go in reverse?

 

[TomFraser]

This might be a stretch, but did you try releasing the parking break before you try to go in reverse?

yeah... tried that


thanks for the post though

 

[DegreE]

This might be a stretch, but did you try releasing the parking break before you try to go in reverse?

What would the e-brake have to do with anything?

 

[CRE]

Here's the part number for the taped up hose: 17346-42020

It lists for $80 something, but you can get one here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747 for $67.


Inexpensive alternatives:

If both sides are the same diameter you could probably get one of these to fit ($17):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=4&osCsid=39f3d1c31cc2156b3ab348a9f201a444

If each side is a different diameter look at these ($20):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=14&osCsid=17b2f15f4d82bf5bd3179473c6f3ad9a

 

[DegreE]

Or just spend $30 at vatozone and buy the universal intake pipe. I little trimming and it will fit nicely between the TB and AFM.

I have it on my car becasue my stock pipe had a 2 inch rip in it. You can also paint it black to keep it looking OEM.

 

[TomFraser]

Here's the part number for the taped up hose: 17346-42020

It lists for $80 something, but you can get one here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747 for $67.


Inexpensive alternatives:

If both sides are the same diameter you could probably get one of these to fit ($17):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=4&osCsid=39f3d1c31cc2156b3ab348a9f201a444

If each side is a different diameter look at these ($20):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=14&osCsid=17b2f15f4d82bf5bd3179473c6f3ad9a

WOW... thanks for looking all that up for me! will probbably buy the one from trademotion.com



I figure if I am going to flush the transmision I might as well have a shop do leak tests and such... what is the max I should pay for the fluid change (if I provide redline) and have them inspect for leaks?


Thanks so much for the prompt replies!

 

[DegreE]

Its hella easy to change the fluid in a M/T.