salts HG repair.

salt1o1

salt1o1

New Member
Mar 7, 2006
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ok so i just finish the jdm motor install and drove it for two days with no problems and then what do you know blown HG. so im replacing the HG with a metal one. i havn't pick out a head gasket yet so if you guys have any imput on it let me know. i know im going to head studs and every thing else.


this is what i have done so far...

head ready to part with its sole mate.


p383287_1.jpg


kinda trashy...


p383287_2.jpg


the block.

p383287_3.jpg


5 cyl power!!!

p383287_4.jpg



thats it for now..
 
werewolves182

werewolves182

is without a supra :(
Aug 23, 2005
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Crownsville, MD
I hope you know that in order to properly do a MHG and get it to seal correctly you MUST have the head lapped and I highly reccomend having the block decked and lapped to at least a 25RA finish. As for a MHG, Cometic all the way. They are not too expensive and are the most forgiving as to how they seal.
 
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salt1o1

salt1o1

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Mar 7, 2006
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florida
thanks for the advice on the cometic, and yes i do realize what is involvled.


as for the oil it doesn't look like it. just another reason to not buy jdm motors unless you rebuild them. :nono:
 
salt1o1

salt1o1

New Member
Mar 7, 2006
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florida
update.

head will be ready for the machine shop tommorrow. =)

im kinda glad this HG blew, now i can get rid of all the sludge in my motor :icon_conf

anywho...pics.

the head....
p384560_1.jpg


being organized...
p384560_2.jpg
 
salt1o1

salt1o1

New Member
Mar 7, 2006
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florida
so the head is at the machine shop and now its cleaning time. yeah lots of fun!!!...maybe..

anywho thought i would paint up the valve covers nice and pretty..=)

its looks like trash but the paint is dry just gotta blow it off.

p385735_1.jpg


and again..

p385735_2.jpg
 
salt1o1

salt1o1

New Member
Mar 7, 2006
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florida
lack of oil changes

the motor it a JDM motor and who ever was driving it didn't seem to take care of it. so thats another reason you should stay away from JDM motors...
 
salt1o1

salt1o1

New Member
Mar 7, 2006
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florida
update!!

head back from shop and lookin good =)

price list.
head: cleaned and deck .020" - $35
titan 1.4mm gasket- 120
arp's-120
gasket set -150

+1 for HPF, they got it here fast!!

p389793_1.jpg


not so nasty anymore.

p389793_2.jpg


build for boost!!

p389793_3.jpg


thats it for now. im trying to have it done by this weekend. wish me luck.
 
salt1o1

salt1o1

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Mar 7, 2006
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florida
well since its not that thick of a gasket and i wont be running THAT much boost. i was think somewhere between 78 ft-lbs and 90 ft-lbs.

if you guys have any suggestions on it please..let me know
 
Jaguar_5

Jaguar_5

It's ALIVE!
Feb 7, 2006
1,468
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Seattle
You need to do abit more reading bud.

Torque has nothing to do with thickness of the gasket, or how much boost you are going to run. The ARP's are better than stock, period, and the torque rating is based on the load limit of the bolts/studs!

The torque required is different whether you use ARP Moly (best) or 30W Oil, Follow ARP's instructions!!!
 
salt1o1

salt1o1

New Member
Mar 7, 2006
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florida
yeah i havn't read over any of the arp stuff you so i guess i was kinda speeking out of line there. lol. i feel like an idiot =)

but yeah ill do that, thanks for saying something.
 
S

Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
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Louisville, KY
johnathan1 said:
Did you read the instructions paper that came with the ARP's? It will tell you what to torque them down to...use that value ONLY...My ARP's (studs) said to torque to 80 ft/lbs.
Click to expand...

I wondered about how ARP decides on the printed torque specifications. The instructions for my bolts said 75 ft-lbs, and so I went to 76. Does the torque recommendation vary from bolt to bolt, or lot to lot, or is 75 the standard ARP recommendation for bolts and 80 the ARP standard for studs?
 
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