Rod resizing and toyota select fit bearings.

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mecevans

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The last thing I have to do to get my engine done is order bearings for my Na-T 7M. I know that rod resizing is recommended especially for the 7M. I took my crank,rods, and block to get it all checked out and so far they say I need resize the rods.

How would this be done? Do I have then resize to the same number on the rods? I am also wondering if I should invest in some arp rod bolts for a 350-400hp max goal? They also told me my crank was in excellent shape besides one little nick that can be polished out. I have had no luck finding the sized bearings at my local Toyota.

Im looking forward to some advice so I can get my car back on the road!
 

Devin LeBlanc

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I have heard many good things about ACL, King and Clevite 77 bearings. Replacing the rod bolts with ARP's is recommended. THe machine shop should do everything though, size everything to the proper clearance and supply you with the under sized bearings.

Also sounds a little funny, you crank is in good condition and does not need to be re ground, but the rods need to be resized. Did that engine have a spun rod bearing? Usually the rod only needs to be resized if the bearing lets go.
 

mecevans

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The crank is in great shape and the engine was strong before I took it apart . I thought I can't use a standard set of bearings with the Toyota select fit system of bearings?
 

CyFi6

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They will resize the rods (AFTER installing the arp rod bolts) all to the same size(they can shave the caps down and bring them all back to an original size). All you will need to know at that point is the size the rod big end is, and the size of the connecting rod journal. Then you can use the TSRM to figure out what bearing to buy for each journal seperately. Same goes for the mains, you need the measurement of the main journals and the main bore holes in the block, then you use the TSRM to figure your bearing #.
 

mecevans

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Is it easier/better to size them all the same or can i just size them to the same number stamped on everything for convienence in the future?
 

suprarich

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It is easier for the machine shop to size the rod big end and the rod journals to fit the clevites then for them to re-do the rods and mains back to the original toyota size ranges. You cannot just size them to the number on the bottom of the rod cap since that number stands for a range of sizes and not one single number. Your machine shop may "think" the rods need resized due to the varying size of each rod. You should ask them if the rods are out of round or out of spec, and if out of spec, ask what size they though should be the spec to consider them out of spec. If you do decide to use the clevite, clevite has what STD size should be for their bearings listed on their website or in the catalog. That is the number that would be considered STD for the Clevite.

Devin - A crank rod journal is usually trashed after a rod knock, and 7m owners should stay away from king bearings for anything beyond a stock rebuild.
 

mecevans

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they said im 4/10 thou over spec on the loaded side of the rod. There spec is 2.1659-2.1671 .I am having no luck even finding select fit bearings now. I was trying to explain the Toyota system to the machinest and he kept telling me im overthinking it.

I don't see how I can use a STD size bearing with journals and bores of all different sizes. From what i understood is to use std bearing everything has to be machined to the same spec $$$. I don't know if I should trust them now. I really believe in doing it right the first time and I would hate to rebuild again because I didn't have my facts straight.
 

suprarich

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I don't have my books in front of me to see what toyota spec is for each numbered size, but I will tell you that his spec is a pretty wide spec. Oem toyota bearings should be available from any dealer. I have the part numbers, but again, I don't have them in front of me.

Your machinist maybe telling you your over thinking it for a few reasons. One is that he wants to line hone the mains, re-do the rods, and size the crank all to fit an aftermarket bearing so as not to fool with select fit bearings. The other reason could be that he is in the same trap that most every machinist in the country is in, and that they are so used to re-building older american v-8 motors, that their entire thought process revolves around the fact that you just grind and hone, install some bearings and its good enough.

One other problem is, most machine shops will refuse to do high tolerance work. Most shops just want to crack open a book, have the book tell them what size to make everything. Then they just get everything close enough to call it good. With that type of common rebuilding in a production type shop, you will get clearances all over the place, but is still considered within spec.

Now about using std size bearings on a select fit system.... for one thing, there is no std size in a select fit system. In an aftermarket bearing such as clevite, there is a std size. BUT, each manufacture will spec in their book what std size is, and it will vary slightly between manufactures. But all these manufactures STD sizes all revolve around the toyota range sizes.

If your rods are truley out of spec, then they will need re-sized. If you are going to use ARP bolts in them, then they will need resized no matter what. Now, you are looking at having all the rods the same size. So you might as well set all the rod journals on the crank to the same size and just use a clevite rod bearing. If your main caps need line bored or honed, then again, you are looking at having them all one size, so you might as well set the crank mains to one size and just use a clevite main bearing. Now if none of this "re-sizing" is needed, then use the toyota bearings.

One other thing to think about is, if you are going to use arp bolts in the oem rods, and will be resizing them, the cost of the arp and the cost of the resizing of the oem rods just paid more than half the cost of new eagle rods, which are already set for a clevite std size bearing.

Believe one thing, you are doing it right, and if more 7m owners would, it would have a much more acurate reputation.
 

mecevans

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So I obviously have two choices. I can resize rods to all the same size, polish the crank and get select fits. And the alternative is to machine everything just to get the clevites to work$$$. For now ill ditch the ARP studs and go with option number one. I want to see how far a properly maintained/built stockish 7M can go and learn from it before I bling it out.

Rich if you could get the part numbers that would be awesome. I called about 3 reputable dealers and all they could find is undersized.
 
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