i dunno how but i lost one of my rod cap,should i just change the cap or the whole piston?can i use a cap from a 7m to a 6m crank?
rod cap
- Thread starter Supraboostin
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Supraboostin said:
I second that. If you change the cap you have to change the connecting rod as well. If you lose a cap, you need a connecting rod with its rod cap. You don’t necessarily need a new piston. I am quite sure you can use the piston you have (unless it is bad for some other reason).z1turbo said:
I know from my own experience & measuring them with my mic’s that a 7M-GTE with either a 6M or a 7M crank use the same pistons & connecting rods.Supraboostin said:
I do have 11 good connecting rods and only need 6.
1 of the 12 I have is damaged because the short block I bought had a case of rod knock, so that kills that set.
Let me see how much it will cost to have the pistons removed from them and then maybe part out just the connecting rods to those that need just one due to rod knock or as such in your case (lost one).
I believe a machine shop is need to remove or assemble pistons to rods. I can't heat them up in my house (as they do when they put them together or take them apart).
You actually can remove the pistons yourself. I heated some vegitable oil in a pot and heated the piston/rod for a couple minutes then tapped on the pin with a dowel. The pin slid right out, just be sure you dont burn yourself in the process.
What? The 7M pistons use full floating wristpins. Remove the snap ring from one side and turn that side down, the pin will fall out, unless it has siezed in wich case you'll need a set of pistons anyway.
Supraboostin- You'll need a new cap and resize the big end of the rod. Same goes for if you haven't kept the other 5 caps together with the rod they belong to (resize them).
Supraboostin- You'll need a new cap and resize the big end of the rod. Same goes for if you haven't kept the other 5 caps together with the rod they belong to (resize them).
chevyeater said:
If your wrist pin falls out then its really worn out or not matched to your piston, toyota even tells you in there manual to heat the piston to 160 deg. and then tap the wrist pin out of the piston. The rod is the only floating part of the piston .
It actually says 140 degrees in the manual. I can't say why it does though, it hasn't been nessicary in my experience. They put the snap rings in the pistons for a reason.
There is no possible way you could remove the pins from my pistons without heating them. When the pistons are at operating temperature they may be full floating but cool the pins are very very tight. If there is enough clearance for the pins to fall out cold then the pistons need to be replaced. My ROSS pistons will allow the pins to slide in and out but they are designed this way.
Nope, I won't burn myself.lzalusky said:
But, why did you choose vegtable oil over water?
The Chilton's manual states to use water (I have three manuals; TSRM, Chilton's, and Hayes; because I have OCD and they do have different info).
Do you think using water will rust the connecting rod or the wrist pin?
I am not sure what they are made of exactly, I would guess steel for the wrist pins & cast for the connecting rods.
Anyway, you use the oil instead of water because...?
P.S. Going to get some carbon remover for the pistons right now since I am going to be handling them myself instead of giving them to the machinist anymore
I just figured it would eliminate the possiblity of flash rusting the connecting rod and wrist pin. I am sure you could use water as well. Plus I wanted to make piston flavored french fries
Well, lzalunky, today I got to benefit from your advice.
I did not use the vegtable oil but water instead. (Oil may have helped the wrist pin to slide out easier maybe.)
The way I disconnected my pistons from the rods are as follows (pretty much as you said):
1) Slowly heat the area where the wrist pin is. I just put the piston face down in a sauce pan with water and let boil. It is not the piston that needs to be heated, it is the rod. The wrist pin is stuck to the rod but has the piston freely move around it. While doing this, I also heated the thick part of a 3/8 drive extension because I did not want the extension to absorb the heat from the wrist pin while using it.
2) Take out the rod/piston from the hot water and slip the 3/8 drive extension through the wrist pin. (Keep in mind that the wrist pin is hollow)
Hold the parts with pieces of cloth to keep from burning your hands.
You will see that a 3/8 drive extension will catch at the inner edge of the wrist pin. Place the rod at an edge with the piston side free and hanging off.
Tap the thick end of the extension with a hammer. When the extension starts to move deeper through the hole and is almost flush with the surface of the piston, add another 3/8 extension and tap that.
Once you clear the rod, the wrist pin will just fall through.
When you are close to the end, you can just hold the rod/piston over the ground and tap it holding it and the hammer in your hands--I do this so that the parts don't drop on the ground from a height with enough potential energy to dent or damage the parts.
I did not use the vegtable oil but water instead. (Oil may have helped the wrist pin to slide out easier maybe.)
The way I disconnected my pistons from the rods are as follows (pretty much as you said):
1) Slowly heat the area where the wrist pin is. I just put the piston face down in a sauce pan with water and let boil. It is not the piston that needs to be heated, it is the rod. The wrist pin is stuck to the rod but has the piston freely move around it. While doing this, I also heated the thick part of a 3/8 drive extension because I did not want the extension to absorb the heat from the wrist pin while using it.
2) Take out the rod/piston from the hot water and slip the 3/8 drive extension through the wrist pin. (Keep in mind that the wrist pin is hollow
)Hold the parts with pieces of cloth to keep from burning your hands.
You will see that a 3/8 drive extension will catch at the inner edge of the wrist pin. Place the rod at an edge with the piston side free and hanging off.
Tap the thick end of the extension with a hammer. When the extension starts to move deeper through the hole and is almost flush with the surface of the piston, add another 3/8 extension and tap that.
Once you clear the rod, the wrist pin will just fall through.
When you are close to the end, you can just hold the rod/piston over the ground and tap it holding it and the hammer in your hands--I do this so that the parts don't drop on the ground from a height with enough potential energy to dent or damage the parts.
yeah, the oil does help the pin to slide easier. as for not having to heat them as mentioned previously well just depends on your particular case. I've had some that needed to be heated and others that didn't, I have even had new Toyota pistons that needed to be heated to be assembled and others that didn't. As for swapping rod caps. yes you can. as long as you have it resized there will not be any problems. swapping and just reusing it, no well you can but you are only asking for problems, but I have seen it done and that motor is still running perfectly fine with about 6X,XXX miles on it since it was done, but I still wouldn't recomend anyone to do it.
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To add to Quick's post: Resizing 1 rod out of 6 is bad mmmkay!
When they resize they take a small amount of material off the parting surface of the rod then machine the big end hold back to round and the correct size.
This has the effect of changing the centre to centre length of the rod and while it's not enough to affect a motor doing only 1 rod will have an effect on the motor after we spend so much time trying to make everything even and perfect!
When they resize they take a small amount of material off the parting surface of the rod then machine the big end hold back to round and the correct size.
This has the effect of changing the centre to centre length of the rod and while it's not enough to affect a motor doing only 1 rod will have an effect on the motor after we spend so much time trying to make everything even and perfect!