-Rich's rebuild

S

Supra

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May 11, 2005
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I don't usually hang out at forums too much but I felt like tossing up a rebuild thread because of all the help I got and am still getting from this forum. Not just searching for info, but from Jeff Tamulis who has sourced parts for me and to jetjock for the AC info.

So I started from scratch with a used block, a well written set of instruction for the machine shop (a shop that I have dealt with in the past, and know well) and ordered up all new parts. I pick the motor up friday from the machine shop. I'll build it this weekend.

Here's the details:
ENGINE
Used 7M-GTE block
Toyota gasket set
New Toyota oil pump, shimmed.
New Toyota water pumper.
New Toyota 7M crank*
+0.020 JE pistons
Titan HG
ARP head studs
Clevite 77 bearings (Toyota thrustwashers)

HEAD
7M-GTE
5 angle intake, 3 angle exhaust
bowl hogged exhaust side
port & polished

EXTERNAL
MAFTPRO (+SD, +Boost, +LC-1 WB O2)
Turbo (TBD)**
550 RC Engineering Inj.
Spearco IC, hardpipes
3" DP - HKS Dragger exhaust, no cats.

No Lexus in there because of the MAFTPRO. There's probably more but I'm not remembering so well prior to my morning coffee. I'll update and add photos as I make progress.

*I'm building this car as a daily driver, so I opted for the 7M crank over the 6M crank for two reasons. First, it should have less vibration, and second it was cheaper than the 6M crank through Toyota.
** Turbo is still in the works. I will break the motor in on a 60-1 CT-26 but ultimately will upgrade to something a bit larger.
 
IHI-RHC7

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
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Looks like a nice build.
Going with a factory crank, why didn't you decide to go with factory bearings? They're hard to beat as far as precise oil clearances go, unless you custom grind the crank to match the clevites...
Keep us posted, and get some pics ;)
 
S

Supra

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IHI-RHC7 said:
Looks like a nice build.
Going with a factory crank, why didn't you decide to go with factory bearings? They're hard to beat as far as precise oil clearances go, unless you custom grind the crank to match the clevites...
Keep us posted, and get some pics ;)
Click to expand...

I'm shooting for ~550rwhp at some point in the near future and was told that the cleveites would be a more durable bearing at those levels. Another bonus is the Cleveites are quite a bit cheaper than Toyota bearings.

Historically, I have done exactly what you suggested... and I've build about 20-25 7M motors at this point and used Toyota bearings and the same shop (Pfeiffer's Engine Specialties) for all of them. This shop specializes in building blown tractor pulling motors and such with the running joke being that my turbo and JE pistons looks like they belong in a lawn mower... :1zhelp: That's all in fun.

I may be a bit skewed on this, but here's my understanding of what they do:
This shop prefers to repair the crank if necessary and polish it first. They will not press straighten or heat the crank. They will leave the natural curves and grind back to exact spec (undersized) not more than .015". Check the block for straightness and damage. Then measure everything and buy bearings to suit. THEN if necessary, they adjust the main journals, typically straighten and resize the rods to make the clearances freakin' perfect. The method seems to be a bit odd to me and I wouldn't recommend them if the motor didn't come back within .00005" EVERY TIME, on every spec. The deck surfaces are always flat and the finish is such that you can read text in the reflection. His recommendations for head work have netted me and my GF both 330 & 323RWHP @ 9psi on 54 trim CT-26 (stock block) at a Toronto Canada Supra meet. The GF's car is a 90T.

I discussed this on a local forum too and one other person's reply with a very high HP Mustang was this - "Another plug for Pfeiffer's (Steve). He is the only person I'll have do my machine work. I always do my own prep, assembly, and double check all cleaarances. When I tell Steve to set the rod bearing clearance at 0.0032", they all measure exactly 0.0032" on my micrometer. Yes, he can be slow during the busy time of the year (about now until June)... but like MEYHEM says, I'd rather wait and get good work. I know serious racers that have him do their work and he has never done anyone wrong."

Everytime I see Steve, he insists that I find a way to increase oil pressure. 5psi at idle scares him. :biglaugh:
 
IHI-RHC7

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
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Yeah, I have the same policy with my machinest, oddly enough his name is steve too ;)
I cringe at reading 0.0032" oil clearances...
 
D

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
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rich!

i met you and gwen waaay back in 99? at one of the supra meets. believe it was one of the dayton meets. glad to see you are still around!

good luck w/ the project. anything i can do to help w/ parts let me know.

dave
 
S

Supra

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May 11, 2005
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dbsupra90 said:
rich!

i met you and gwen waaay back in 99? at one of the supra meets. believe it was one of the dayton meets. glad to see you are still around!

good luck w/ the project. anything i can do to help w/ parts let me know.

dave
Click to expand...

Gwen and I are stil together, and she still has her 90T. Her brother has a 87NA and her dad an 90T as well. :cry:

There are a few more pics under that 'engine' folder at the above link.
 
S

Supra

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Update-
The engine for the Supra is built. One glitch, the 7M crank doesn't fit the early 7M block. I had to remove some casting from the inside to get the crank's counterweight to clear. Now I'm just waiting for the turbo.

I have pictures but the camera did wierd things. The engine is basically black and polished aluminum. The photo prior to bolting on the aluminum pieces came out fine so I think the flash reflected off the polished AL and made the photos turn very dark, but with bright flash marks on the aluminum surfaces. I'm not a photographer by any means!!! I think I'll need to wheel it outside and re-shoot. Camera is decent a 5MP Kodak. Here's a few pics that did work out.

100_0217.jpg

Last 7M crank in the USA according to J Watson.
100_0218.jpg

Fitment issue prior to grinding.
100_0226.jpg

All new bottom end.
100_0223.jpg

Shimmed oil pump. 4.8mm using a Toyota 10mm nut, ground to correct thickness and then drilled the center threads out.

:naughty:
 
S

Supra

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Update:
Wired everything up over the weekend (car & engine) and pressure washed the engine bay. MAFTPRO sensor worked out well in the EGR location. MAFT PRO will end up in the glovebox with enough wire to reach the passenger's lap.

Few more pics. Turbo is supposed to be here this wednesday. :naughty: Next up on the list - re-install the AC lines. :3d_frown:

Latest pics:
http://www.poweredbythought.com/suprarebuild2006/engine/

Pics worth seeing:
100_0242.jpg

100_0243.jpg


Sensor for MAFTPRO mounted on a flattened oil cooler line bracket (the stamped metal bracket that attaches to the cast PS pump bracket.) The other gray sensor is fuel pressure. I ran all the maftpro (and other wires) inside the factory harness.

One note: If you bought the speed density plug-n-play kit, DON'T solder the generic one to your harness. The SD PNP kit replaces the wires from the MAFTPRO box. :3d_frown: I realized my error after finishing up. On the bright side, there's enough spare wire to re-do all the shady gauge work that I 'used to' have. Thanks Dr. J. :icon_bigg
 
S

Supra

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IJ. said:
Rich: Nice! :)

I had to grind that boss and a touch on the pump for the Pauter rods to clear!
Click to expand...

How much clearance is "safe" for the crank counterwieght to block? I ended up with a bit more than 1/8". I figured if the crank gets that far out of line, something else has already broken first. :aigo:
 
I

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Rich: LOL 1/8" is like a house brick and will be 100% fine!

.040" would do it and as you mentioned if the crank moves that much you're about to get a flat rear tire as you drive over it ;)
 
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dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
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looking good rich!

-Rich87Tx2 said:
One note: If you bought the speed density plug-n-play kit, DON'T solder the generic one to your harness. The SD PNP kit replaces the wires from the MAFTPRO box. :3d_frown: I realized my error after finishing up. On the bright side, there's enough spare wire to re-do all the shady gauge work that I 'used to' have. Thanks Dr. J. :icon_bigg
Click to expand...

oooh &#^*%@ :3d_frown: iirc i think i used the bundle of wire in the box. i guess that means i have to redo it all w/ the other harness?
the instructions for maft and maftpro have always been on the lacking. that really sucks. the bad news is my car is 6hrs away :cry:

edit: ok supralover2000 set me straight. i did have it right. the generic plug vs pnp is the 6 pin plug, not the 10pin. i was stressing! i had done the wiring a month ago and couldnt remember how i did it. add to the fact my car is in another state. drama!
thanks wellington :)
 
Last edited:
S

Supra

New Member
May 11, 2005
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dbsupra90 said:
looking good rich!



oooh &#^*%@ :3d_frown: iirc i think i used the bundle of wire in the box. i guess that means i have to redo it all w/ the other harness?
the instructions for maft and maftpro have always been on the lacking. that really sucks. the bad news is my car is 6hrs away :cry:

edit: ok supralover2000 set me straight. i did have it right. the generic plug vs pnp is the 6 pin plug, not the 10pin. i was stressing! i had done the wiring a month ago and couldnt remember how i did it. add to the fact my car is in another state. drama!
thanks wellington :)
Click to expand...

Sorry about that. Yeah, and (in my case?) it was only one purple wire on the 6 pin. The rest of the generic harness wires become the AIT & MAP sensor connections. You could just as easily cut the purple wire and solder the PNP harness instead of unsoldering the generic, but I had taken the time to remove the pins from the connector, unsolder all my AVC-r/S-AFC wiring, soldered, fixed and shrink wrapped everything. After doing all that, it felt sorta half assed to double join a wire.

One other note about my setup. I've been told that I need to flip my MAP sensor upside down to prevent moisture/debris from settling down inside of it. I plan to just flip the bracket I made and use a longer hose.
 
S

Supra

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tookwik4u89 said:
You should consider moving the map sensor to the firewall, it doesn't need the extra heat and vibration it will see on the intake.
Click to expand...

You guys are making this sooooooo difficult. :icon_mad: OK, so mount it upside down, or at least flat AND don't subject it to vibration... Got it. :biglaugh:

Oh, oh, guess what showed up early...

100_0252.jpg


100_0254.jpg
 
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