Retorque headgasket

[doom26464]

ok i was told by IJ to do this and Went and did alot of searching on the forums on how to do and different opions.

Ok First before I begin before I rebuilt this motor I had blow the head gasket 3 years ago. I installed ARP headbolts and oem headgasket to 85lbs. Ran it fine for a year and half with NO retorque on 14psi. Then got rod knock and pulled engine headgasket looked to be in great shape when I pulled the motor.

Now I rebuilt the motor and used a 2.0mm commetic METAL head gasket but using the same ARP headbolts from before(I was told it was fine to re use them)

Now here are some questions I have come up with from browsing many many threads on here

1.) I read some info where it said a re-torque is not nessceray if the ARP hardware you are using has already seen a couple heat cycles. IS this true?? also here is a post from IJ that even says so from a thread awhile back.

Straight from Cometic's info Pdf!

"Head Gasket Torque Procedure
If you are using studs or head bolts, torque hardware to the manufacturers specification. Fasteners works like a springs and must
have proper Torque or Stretch applied to carry the correct amount of clamp force. Also use the proper lube or thread sealer for the job.
All fasteners must be final torqued before thread sealant cures to achieve proper torque.
Torque the fasteners in the correct sequence. It is critical to follow manufacturers torque sequence to apply clamp force evenly.
A smooth continuous motion is important for every torque sequence. Re-torque is not necessary unless using hardware that has not been heat cycled."

2.)when retorque it says to back the bolts out then retorque them. if your just try to retorque them you won't get an accurate reading. Now with lossening the bolts up wouldn't that break the headgasket seal?? And would you loossen all the bolt first then retorque them or do each bolt indivdualy at a time??


I guess I could have just pm'd IJ but I would also like to hear other peoples opions and ideas as well

 

[GrimJack]

In theory, you don't need to re-torque on a set of bolts that's been heat cycled... however, what it really boils down to is, it won't hurt. And it might help. I've never had one loosen off on bolts / studs that have already been heat cycled... but I keep checking!

Do them one at a time. Back them off just enough for them to make that nasty cracking noise, then retorque. Do them in the proper order, too, same order that you use when torquing the head down initially.

 

[Sawbladz]

And make sure to only crack one loose at a time. DO NOT crack them all loose and then being to torque them down in order. Just wanted to make sure that was REALLY clear. lol

 

[IJ.]

Grim/Dave has it right (as confirmed by SB)

EVERY single 7M I've built has had uneven Tq after 4+ heat cycles so now it's just part of how I do things. (it may only be a few ft/lbs here and there usually in the middle of the head but it's still uneven so not worth the risk)

 

[MK3Brent]

Make sure the head and block are cooled off. (Don't do this after the engine has been running.)

 

[doom26464]

ok crack it back till it comes loosee then torque back to 85lbs for each individual bolt one at time in pattern per tsrm.....got it lol

 

[IJ.]

You'll hear/feel it crack that's far enough then pull it back to the correct torque.

You do this to release the stiction between the Nut/Washer/Head so you get an accurate retorque.

A lot of people chuck the torque wrench on a nut and yank on it and when it doesn't move at xxft/lbs they think "IJ is fullOshit my studs are all tight"

When in reality it's just the stiction resisting the torque wrench, once cracked you'll get a feel for just how far you need to pull the wrench to get them back to the accurate Tq setting and this is where I consistantly see a difference in the studs towards the middle.

 

[MK3Brent]

It's like a physics problem dealing with movement and friction... once you over come the initial force to break it loose it takes less to move it.

 

[IJ.]

Nice diagram Brent

 

[supra_ed]

u only torque studs to arp's recommended torque?- i believe 80ft/lbs- i usually take it to 85ft/lbs

 

[MK3Brent]

u only torque studs to arp's recommended torque?- i believe 80ft/lbs- i usually take it to 85ft/lbs

Auf Deutsch: "Guten-tight."

 

[supra_ed]

gotcha- torque studs to 162ft/lbs- start at front and work my way back

 

[IJ.]

gotcha- torque studs to 162ft/lbs- start at front and work my way back

ROFLMAO here

 

[MK3Brent]

Least he didn't say ratchet straps around the oil pan and across the head..

 

[IJ.]

Ed's not a n00b he'd know to use them without saying it sheeesh

 

[supra_ed]

Least he didn't say ratchet straps around the oil pan and across the head..

i wish!!! i have to make due with bungies. if i could afford ratchet straps, i would be driving an mk4

 

[IJ.]

Those guys are baller

 

[doom26464]

gotcha- torque studs to 162ft/lbs- start at front and work my way back

some one should try this and see how it works lol

 

[supra_ed]

i knew a kid with a sohc vtec civic who used an impact gun on his factory head bolts. ive never laughed so hard at somebody before in my life. i truly enjoyed making fun of him and his cracked, broken-ass cylinder head

 

[doom26464]

i knew a kid with a sohc vtec civic who used an impact gun on his factory head bolts. ive never laughed so hard at somebody before in my life. i truly enjoyed making fun of him and his cracked, broken-ass cylinder head

get that head on there nice and tight lol.


But back on topic I'd like to hear some members who havn't done a retorque and how there cars are running?