i am planning to do the front facing im. what do i need in order to make it work? what throttle body, cable, and any other components do i need to make it work? also where and how should i relocate the battery if i need to. and how do i mount the alternator and do i need a special timing belt for it. help me out im going to do it pretty soon.
requirements for front-facing intake manifold?
- Thread starter redsupra_Dragstar
- Start date
I just talked to Ron about it as I plan to upgrade to this pretty soon. But you'll need the FFIM, a new throttle cable, a common upgrade is the Q45 Infinity throttle body, and either move the alternator to where the A/C was or an alternator drop down bracket.
New I/C piping, FMIC, BOV, throttle cable & manifold. The battery can stay if you route the I/C piping (cold side) like that of a 1J. The stock TB can be used also if you wish, but that would limit the gains in performance.
All in all, it's a good chunk of coin. I think it was Idealsupra that said that it can be done for a few hundred bucks, but if you're going the high end route, look to shell out $1500-$2000 just for the parts to do the FFI conversion. $150-$250ish for aluminum I/C piping & silicon elbows, $200 for a quality BOV, $200+ for an Ebay FMIC & another $25 for the hardware to mount it, $135ish for a Q45 TB, $550-$800 for RR FFI (long & short runner, respectively), some more coin for the throttle cable (ask Ron for the exact since he doesn't specifically price them in his thread), $20 for an alternator belt & throw in another $150 for the battery relocation kit & other misc parts.
The above runs about $1850. Adds up quick, but if you shop around it can effect your price (I bought a Tail BOV for $200 shipped, so your price could go up too). There are some things that I didn't address like the coolant oveflow bottle being moved, cost of welding the I/C piping, shipping charges & paypal charges. Yep, two bills, easily.....
On the plus side of course is the improved performance, easier maintainance and just a kick ass appearance. :biglaugh:
All in all, it's a good chunk of coin. I think it was Idealsupra that said that it can be done for a few hundred bucks, but if you're going the high end route, look to shell out $1500-$2000 just for the parts to do the FFI conversion. $150-$250ish for aluminum I/C piping & silicon elbows, $200 for a quality BOV, $200+ for an Ebay FMIC & another $25 for the hardware to mount it, $135ish for a Q45 TB, $550-$800 for RR FFI (long & short runner, respectively), some more coin for the throttle cable (ask Ron for the exact since he doesn't specifically price them in his thread), $20 for an alternator belt & throw in another $150 for the battery relocation kit & other misc parts.
The above runs about $1850. Adds up quick, but if you shop around it can effect your price (I bought a Tail BOV for $200 shipped, so your price could go up too). There are some things that I didn't address like the coolant oveflow bottle being moved, cost of welding the I/C piping, shipping charges & paypal charges. Yep, two bills, easily.....
On the plus side of course is the improved performance, easier maintainance and just a kick ass appearance. :biglaugh:
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I wish we had these available years ago... performance/maintainability alone makes it worthwhile. How many of them Fing intake hoses do we mess up, while removing everything from the top, just to change the plugs? Not to mention how dirty it gets and stays, because of all that mess in the way, making it difficult to clean (without pouring a bunch of water in the plug valley).
Waiting on one from Ron now, but with my other projects, I may not have in place, in time for TX2K6 next week.
Waiting on one from Ron now, but with my other projects, I may not have in place, in time for TX2K6 next week.
Satan said:
I agree. I bought my car a year & a half ago. After doing the BHG thing once, it told myself that the next time I did any major work on the motor I would do the FFI conversion. I do too much maintainance & whatnot to have the patience to go through pulling the top half of the motor each time.
I just got good at pulling apart the top of the motor.
Not like it's really that big of a deal:
- 3 bolts takes off the throttle assembly
- 4 for the intake pipe and 3000 pipe
- 4 for the coilpack cover
- 4 for the coilpack itself
- 2 for hardlines
Then all you are left with is a few hoses.
Not like it's really that big of a deal:
- 3 bolts takes off the throttle assembly
- 4 for the intake pipe and 3000 pipe
- 4 for the coilpack cover
- 4 for the coilpack itself
- 2 for hardlines
Then all you are left with is a few hoses.
you can also go with a mustang tb. you just have to specify when you order. thats what i am going with. for one there are tons more out there. lots cheaper and more sizing choices. i for one think the Q45 is a bit of overkill. a 3.5 inch tb is way huge, especially when you would run 2.5 to 3.0 inch IC piping max. but its just preference i guess. all about hp goals.......
GrimJack said:
It's all in the personal motovation, I guess. I prefer to just unplug the spark plug wires to be able to get to them. :icon_bigg
3p141592654 said:
Yes. Mount the coil pack on the firewall, behind the motor. Reverse the wires so they'll fit.
GrimJack said:
It's not that big a deal, 'til a simple plug change, TPS adjustment,TB cleaning, etc.... Then what you have is a bunch of brittle, cracked, duct-taped hoses and stripped-out bolts to deal with. Sorry, been there done that too many times... it's a PITA to do the simple stuff. Takes more time to remove all that $h*t, than to do the work you want to do... can U tell I hate all that mess!!!! I just end up breaking more stuff and would've been better of leaving it alone to begin with.
Oh, and I have to always loosen and pull off one-side of the strut bar for these easy things... still a pain to me.
Well worth the $$ for FFIM (if you plan to keep you car for many years and always be in that part of the engine - like me).... wish I woulda had the option/ability 8 years ago...
I don't have to worry about brittle, cracked, duct taped hoses and stripped out bolts. Everything on mine is new. 
GrimJack said:I don't have to worry about brittle, cracked, duct taped hoses and stripped out bolts. Everything on mine is new.
I speak for all of us with the original, 13+ year old, petrified hoses and previous-owner's rigging ... We hate U :bigun2:
J/K...I bet it runs better-than-new! :bowdown: