Repairing GTE BHG, Im familiar with GE

phoenix6

Rockin' the blades
Aug 13, 2006
1,138
0
0
39
Serena's Place ;)
Well this guy selling 2 of his old supras has a 3rd one, almost perfect except has a BHG. He wants ME to fix it, its a GTE, Ive only have experience with GEs, he said if I fix it for him, hell give me his older WHITE one, its trash but the engine is a GTE, everythings included and I get the entire car! The engine cranks up but supposedly misfires or something, his mechanic friend took a look and guessed the CPS, if thats all it is, Im taking it and its going into my 86.5

Anyways, whats the extra process for a BHG repair on a GTE? ALOT harder? How much time you think I need?

Thanks guys.
 

MDCmotorsports

Offical SM Expert: Turbochargers
SM Expert
Mar 31, 2005
4,194
2
38
43
Indy 500
www.MDCmotorsports.com
If you're simply wanting to put your car back on the road, heres what you need:

-Stock head gasket
-ARP bolt lube or any MPZ, high temp high load dark grease.
-Sanding block
-Straight edge
-About 10 pairs of foam ear plugs with the cords attached
-Paper towels
-200 grit, 500 grit, and 1000 grit sand paper
-Metric tap for head bolt holes (dont' remember what size it is)
-FIPG or RTV black
-Halomar blue. Look it up :)
-Enough oil to do an oil change
-4+ cans of brake cleaner. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS. Do not get the brake cleaner that has petrol in it (will smell like diesel fuel). CRC makes great electrical contact / brake cleaner.
- Three to four straight razor blades
- Shop vac


*************************************************

Ok, its a rush job. This isn't going to make it 6 years down the road. Its not going to make 1341094189471 horse power. Its not going to be SAE "correct".

It will get you on the road.

Drain the coolant. (duh)

Take the head off the car, and make sure you remove the exhaust manifold and upper plennum. Leave the cam gears and cams in if possible.

Measure the deck and head for warping. If either are out of toyota specs, you're pretty much fubar.

With the head off the car, litterally hose the entire bottom side of the head down, while using a razor blade to scrape all excess head gasket material away.

Take the ear plugs, and cut the cord that attaches them together.

MAKE SURE TO COUNT HOW MANY YOU ARE INSTALLING. DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS STEP.

Take an ear plug and insert one into each hole in the head (bolt holes etc) The cord lets you remove them. If they get stuck, spray some Wd40 or light oil down the hole and they will pop out.

After clearing away all large debris via razor, start with the heavy grit sand paper. Go from left to right all the way down the head, then up and down the head. You should get two grains going against each other. Then repeat the same process with the other sand papers. You may / may not get all the pits out of the head you are working on. Just remember that every thing must be even.

Keep moving!

Don't sand in one spot.

When you are done with the head, hose down the sanded area with a can of brake clean.

Remove the ear plugs. AGAIN, COUNT HOW MANY YOU PULL OUT. IT SHOULD MATCH HOW MANY YOU PUT IN.

For the block...

Be careful when installing the ear plugs into the head bolt holes due to them being threaded. Do not force the plug down into the threaded hole. If you do, you get to spend the next hour with a sewing needle fishing the plug out.

Start by installing the ear plugs into all availalbe holes. Install paper towels into each cyl bore.

Move onto cleaning the deck free of all remaining HG pcs with the razor.

After the razor, again start with the heavy sand paper, then move lighter and lighter.

Remove the ear plugs.

Now take the tap and lube it. Grease or light oil works well. Run the tap through all the head bolt holes. Clean and re-lube the tap through each hole.

After you are done, take the shop vac, and make sure the end of the hose is clean. Vacuum every bolt hole you just cleaned with the tap.

Take out the paper towels and vacuum each cyl. You may or may not get debris into the vacuum.

Take out the head gasket, and spray with Halomar blue.

Let stand untill tacky.

Take a clean lint free paper towel or rag and hose down with brake cleaner. Clean the block deck.

This is where it gets tricky.

Install the head gasket.

Install the FIPG / rtv black along the area towards the front of the block as specified in the TSRM.

Have a friend with flashlight help you install the head. You MUST GET IT ON PERFECTLY STRAIGHT! If you don't, you will dent or crease the head gasket.

After you install your head, take each headbolt and clean on a wire wheel. Again, hose off with brake cleaner untill clean. Use either ARP head bolt lube, or some heavy MPZ, hi temp, or other dark heavy load hi temp grease.

Make sure each head bolt hole in the head has a washer.

Install each head bolt, with plenty of lube under the head of the bolt between the washer, and on the threads.

Follow toyota torque pattern.

Once torqued, drain your engine oil.

While draining, hose out each cam cover with a can of brake cleaner.

While drying, install a new oil filter.

Pour one quart on the exhaust cam.

Pour one quart on the intake cam.

Check final head bolt torque.

Install now clean cam covers.

Reinstall the rest of the engine parts.
 

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
6,359
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36
Hot and Humid, KY
Wow, that was worth a good finger cramping ;). That pretty much covers it. If this guy will buy ARP studs for the rebuild, it will make getting the head on perfectly straight A LOT easier, just remove the hood of the car.
 

Jaguar_5

It's ALIVE!
Feb 7, 2006
1,468
0
0
Seattle
MDCmotorsports said:
-Metric tap for head bolt holes (dont' remember what size it is)

M12x1.25 for the headbolt holes, and main cap threads as well

Fantastic post MDC!

Definiteley do the job.
You can do it in 2 days if you have all the tools and gaskets you'll need