removing harmonic damper nut?
- Thread starter 917mgte
- Start date
i invested in this crazy ass tool that has a pivot on the bottom with a 1/2 adapter, the top has a grip and an area to pound with a hammer, works good for tight spots when engine removal is not a possibility and air tools wont fit.
Not a suggestion in anyway can cause damage and possible injury. have to to do it hondas many times, big breaker wedged on frame and BUMP engine to brake loose.
Not a suggestion in anyway can cause damage and possible injury. have to to do it hondas many times, big breaker wedged on frame and BUMP engine to brake loose.
dont matter if auto or manual. but get the biggest breaker bar you can find!! and crank that!! lol
mk3-4-me;1613640 said:
And just how do you propose to stop the crank rotating if it's an auto?
I ask questions for a reason, they determine my answer to the issue instead of making useless posts.
Remove the plate between the engine and transmission to expose the flywheel/flexplate teeth and jam the flywheel/flexplate with a prybar.
In my haynes supra manual, it recommends to remove the starter and stop it with a pry bar while you remove the bolt.
I used this method once, it is MUCH easier with two people.
If the motor is out of the car, I ''blocked'' the crank with an 3/8" extension and used a large breaker bar.
Having a friend to help is always a good idea.
Sam
I used this method once, it is MUCH easier with two people.
If the motor is out of the car, I ''blocked'' the crank with an 3/8" extension and used a large breaker bar.
Having a friend to help is always a good idea.
Sam
i never had a prob with my auto... i just cranked it with a breaker bar and got it... lol keep it in park?
Park only locks the output shaft and the ringgear is still free to turn.mk3-4-me;1613738 said:
4th gear have a bud stand on the brakes then a big breaker bar, it "should" be done up to 195ft/lbs so expect a lot of effort but it will come undone.917mgte;1613764 said:
(might have to slip a cheater pipe over the breaker bar if you're a light guy)
suprarich;1614265 said:
I really can't understand the need here for people that have NFI to give advice in Tech threads.... :nono:
Growing up learning to work on cars at a neighbours place they had a plaque on the wall that read
"Oh Lord help me to keep my big mouth shut until I know what I'm talking about"
Words to live by!
What a dangerous thread!
Also, I must agree, why would you not listen to IJ? The man has done it more than a few times.
Also, I must agree, why would you not listen to IJ? The man has done it more than a few times.
Ian, I think when they say "crank it" they mean hit the starter with the breaker bar on the crank bolt though I'm sure you got that part. I got mine off with a 36" pipe wrench and placed it around the inside where the bolt is and the outside where the belt rides. Not sure if it is right or wrong but i was able to loosen it fairly easily. Make sure you are pushing away form you when you do this. Nothing like catching a breaker bar to the teeth to lighten your day!!
Neal;1614765 said:
Takes 2 people Neal, I remove the inspection cover and place a big screwdriver into the teeth to stop the ring gear turning.
(Starter side to undo, Turbo side to tighten)
Ian,
Never worried about bending the flex plate or breaking the teeth off the ring gear? Just seems like alot of pressure concentrated in a small area. Although I'm sure my method was no better...lol
Never worried about bending the flex plate or breaking the teeth off the ring gear? Just seems like alot of pressure concentrated in a small area. Although I'm sure my method was no better...lol