Crazybobmundo said:
I was searching for the thread where someone from here was rebuilding a GTE engine. This person was using a 6M crank I believe and provided information on the pistons he//she used on their previous 3 rebuilds and how weisco was the preference of the rebuilder because of the longer skirt.
This was like a step by step on how to rebuild it, little hints and tricks to perform so you dont have to do something again etc, etc.
I need that link if anyone already has it in their favorites. and yes I did use the search button just I couldnt find it.
Thank you.
Here is my recipe:
Magnaflux the block, head, and rods first. Don't spend money machining junk parts. :icon_wink
Deck the block and surface the head for a mhg, very smooth surface required. Ask if the shop has a "CBN" mill. A 50 year old fly cutting machine ain't gonna cut it. (pun intended) If all the equipment looks like it was made for rebuilding Model T engines go somewhere else. If I have learned anything about machine shops it is that they ALL will say they can do the best job around, but only about 1 in 10 machine shops can do quality work that is worth the money they will be charging you for it.
Have the rods resized, line bore the mains, grind crank, micropolish crank.
Use ARP rod bolts and head studs, main studs are nice too.
JE, Ross, CP, and Weisco all make good pistons. Your choice there.
Go with the recommended piston to cylinder clearances from the piston manufacturer for a turbocharged engine, and add another thousandth or so if you plan on using nitrous.
Match the cylinder bore to each piston. MAKE SURE THEY USE A TORQUE PLATE!
File fit rings if needed.
Shot peen the stock rods and pin fit for the new pistons.
Find out what size bearings you need from the machine shop and get Clevite, NDC, or Toyota bearings.
Use a good quality assembly lube on all the bearings, piston pins, cams, etc...
Rebuild the head and install new valve seals.
I prefer HKS, but Cometic and Greddy are all basically the same thing. The surface prep is the key to no bhg!
(I like Permatex copper spray, some swear by brake quiet, but we'll not go there right now LOL You decide for yourself.)
The coolant fitting on the back of the head is usually corroded. If the threads are screwed up when you remove it, which is usually the case, get a 22mm x 1.5 tap and clean the threads up and use new Toyota banjo fitting, bolt, and washers for it.
Helicoil all the exhaust manifold stud holes, they are almost sure to strip otherwise.
Torque head studs to 81ft/lbs with moly lube! Not 90ft/lbs, not 95 not 100, not 132.7! 80ft/lbs is close enough though.
I think ARP rod bolts are 55ft/lbs and 75ft/lbs for main studs, but it says in the box so follow the instructions.
If you want it to go together so nicely then get one of these!
They are about $50 ea, and only work for one size piston, but OMG I freakin love these things. The pistons just slide right in. Whoever invented the ring compressor you crank with an allen wrench is a masochist.
