rebuild questions

[sleepersupra]

ok i'm in the middle of doing yet another hg job and was wondering if you guys had any helpful advice to hopefully make this my last time to have the engine disassembled.

i bought cromoly (spelling?) rings, new main and rod bearings, arp studs, gonna get a mhg but haven't got the block and the head back yet, and i replaced all the other gaskets i.e. intake exhaust etc.

any advice for when i start putting everything back together? anything would be nice, just so i don't miss, or forget something. thanks

 

[sleepersupra]

nobody has any suggestions or advice????

 

[aye mate]

Take your time and double check everything. Get a good torque wrench!

 

[JonoTurbo]

Replace the timing belt while you have the thing apart, consider replacing the oil pump. Clean all of your brackets/accessories up and repaint them where needed with high temp paint, makes the engine look a thousand times better, and you might as well while everything is apart.

 

[lagged]

Replace the timing belt while you have the thing apart, consider replacing the oil pump. Clean all of your brackets/accessories up and repaint them where needed with high temp paint, makes the engine look a thousand times better, and you might as well while everything is apart.

for a real rebuild? all those things go without saying. check out the guide on 7mpower.com or is it down again? also at supras.nl i remember he had some good rebuild info.

 

[sleepersupra]

you're right most of these things are to go without saying but i just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas that i may have forgotten.

thanks for the responses

 

[jdub]

Take a look here:
http://www.supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=25&Itemid=41

The menu on the left takes you through various stages of a rebuild.

Also:
- Make sure the front plate (aluminum part with the water pump housing) is attached to the block when it's decked. Otherwise the head will not sit flat on the block.
- Use copper RTV along the top of the aluminum front plate to seal it...otherwise you will have an oil leak. Don't put too much RTV here; you don't want it to interfer with the MHG seal.
- IMO helicoiling the exhaust manifold stud holes (use new 10mm studs) is great insurance against stripping them when you torque the exhaust manifold down. It happens way too often on this head and helicoils are stronger.
- I would have the crank balanced and the bearing surfaces micro polished at minimum. That's assuming there is not excessive wear on the bearing surfaces.
- Triple check rod & crank bearing clearances..."that's close enough" doesn't work here. You don't want to develop rod knock.
- The block and head mating surfaces MUST BE very smooth to use a MHG...if you can feel machining ridges with your fingernail, they will need to be lapped.
- Make sure the gaps in the rings are not lined up.
- Make sure the MHG is sized properly for cyl diameter if you did an overbore.
- If the MHG has rivets (like the Titan gasket), remove it before you install.
- Make sure the #1 pistion is at TDC
- Follow ARP specs for torque on the studs...they are different if you use moly vs motor oil to lube.
- Install the CPS with the #1 piston at DTC...the sensor will be at the 12:30 to 1:00 o'clock position. Don't forget to replace the CPS O-ring.
- Use a new oil pump...you can shim the relief valve w/ 2 or 3 washers to get up to 10 psi more pressure.
- Check your valve shim clearances (after you install the CPS & head is torqued down)...much easier to do with the motor out of the car.

You probably know a lot of this and even though I probably don't have to restate this either, but...re-check torque specs on EVERYTHING. Good luck!