rebuild question
- Thread starter Supraboostin
- Start date
Hello Supraboosin,
I assume you are asking about what is best for breaking in an engine, as in when it is first run.
I always assumed that as long as it is not synthetic, you should be fine -- you already know that though.
Did you already see this article, it has some info on that and I am told my one of our more knowledgable guys that the article has been working for many people. If there is more info or contradictory info to the article, with a basis, I would like to know of that info.
From:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
If anyone has a favorite conventional oil over another one for the break-in process, I too would be interested in reading that.
BTW, I have been meaning to ask you some Q's about Miami, I will do that next time I see you on AIM or in the chat room (whenever that will be).
I assume you are asking about what is best for breaking in an engine, as in when it is first run.
I always assumed that as long as it is not synthetic, you should be fine -- you already know that though.
Did you already see this article, it has some info on that and I am told my one of our more knowledgable guys that the article has been working for many people. If there is more info or contradictory info to the article, with a basis, I would like to know of that info.
From:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm said:
If anyone has a favorite conventional oil over another one for the break-in process, I too would be interested in reading that.
BTW, I have been meaning to ask you some Q's about Miami, I will do that next time I see you on AIM or in the chat room (whenever that will be).
used wal-mart supertech 10-30 with a supertech oil filter. Worked great......
One other thing, make sure you change the oil after 300-400 miles. When I changed my oil, you can see that there is sooo much metal in the oil. Don't wait 1500 miles, you will be running all those metal particles all through your engine. :biglaugh:
One other thing, make sure you change the oil after 300-400 miles. When I changed my oil, you can see that there is sooo much metal in the oil. Don't wait 1500 miles, you will be running all those metal particles all through your engine. :biglaugh:
uhm. On NA cars, I believe this is true, but I whole heartedly believe that turbo motors should recieve little to no boost until the rings have seated. Boost increases average cylinder pressure much more than it increases peak cylinder pressure, and low rpm boost especially will blow by unseated rings. And then they won't seat. run it through the revs, and accel decel? yes. Boost the piss out of it? no.
just what exactly do you mean by "you people"?
what in the fuck does that mean? huh? what are you? who do you think you are....
j/k
use a cheap 10w30 or 10w40 with a decent filter... i dont trust "supertech" oil nor their filters... just personal preference... some people dont like Castrol GTX, i've had no problems with it.
here's some tips.
do NOT allow that car to leave vacuum.
vary your speed. avoid the highway, really...
stay on roads that require changes in speed.
even force yourself to slow down and speed back up, but remember... NO BOOST!
change oil @ 300mi
repeat above instructions
change oil @ 500mi since last change
i forget how many miles you should really baby it... i'd make it at LEAST 1500...
if it was my engine? i would change the oil every 500 miles after the first 300mi change for about 3000 miles. (or 3300mi)
it can get a bit pricey, changing your oil just twice a week, but not nearly as much as tearing it down and re-rebuilding it...
what in the fuck does that mean? huh? what are you? who do you think you are....
j/k
use a cheap 10w30 or 10w40 with a decent filter... i dont trust "supertech" oil nor their filters... just personal preference... some people dont like Castrol GTX, i've had no problems with it.
here's some tips.
do NOT allow that car to leave vacuum.
vary your speed. avoid the highway, really...
stay on roads that require changes in speed.
even force yourself to slow down and speed back up, but remember... NO BOOST!
change oil @ 300mi
repeat above instructions
change oil @ 500mi since last change
i forget how many miles you should really baby it... i'd make it at LEAST 1500...
if it was my engine? i would change the oil every 500 miles after the first 300mi change for about 3000 miles. (or 3300mi)
it can get a bit pricey, changing your oil just twice a week, but not nearly as much as tearing it down and re-rebuilding it...
I tend to use a single weight oil for the initial breakin as it's all oil and not 4 litres of oil and 1 litre of "vicosity index improver" (this is what makes it change thickness at different temps and is NOT oil)
I run the motor for an hour or so gentle driving then change the filter top off the oil and drive it for 500 km's no boost then dump the oil and filter then refill with my regular oil.
Oil and Filters are cheap compared to having to rebuild.
I run the motor for an hour or so gentle driving then change the filter top off the oil and drive it for 500 km's no boost then dump the oil and filter then refill with my regular oil.
Oil and Filters are cheap compared to having to rebuild.
Jake: Yep don't run em steady state I usually use a 25 KPH spread just gentle pressure up and down from the cruise speed and I try to not let it idle at all if I can help it!
7M's have some of the hardest Cast Iron I've come across in an Engine block and will glaze rings quickly if they're hard.
7M's have some of the hardest Cast Iron I've come across in an Engine block and will glaze rings quickly if they're hard.
What if you bolted a NA header up for the vreakin and used the mototune usa style hard breakin, then switched your turbo mani and all back on after? Best way yet I think.
eric
eric