Rebuild / ARP Engine Hardware

Jaguar_5

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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I'm planning on a basic rebuild for my engine, doing what i need to build it right, don't want to cheap out skip any steps, also don't want to do more than necessary. Already ordered the rebuilt head, I'm gonna have a hard time figuring out what thickness MHG i'll need, with pretty much unknown history of how much has been taken off the block / head.

I'm still struggling to decide between head bolts/studs, i'll still be able to take the studs out with everything still in the engine bay, and then remove the head, right?

And how necessary is it to avoid reusing the rest of the engine hardware? Do i need to get ARP Main studs, and rod bolts? I'm going to need to dissasemble everything to get it decked and rehoned, and i'm unsure of the rest that i'll need done at the machine shop.

Any input is appreciated!
 
Jaguar_5

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Had time to double check yet? :icon_bigg

My machinist said the new cylinder head is (i think) 46 thousandths below stock spec. He said i would need a huge headgasket and it would mess up my timing or compression with adjustable cam gears... The cylinder head place told me that toyotas stock spec is not realistic, and it'll work fine, but he's willing to work with me and either find the thickest one he has, or give me a refund and hopefully my machinist will be able to restore my old head within spec...
 
I

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
A stock head is 116mm/4.566" uncut.

Your .046" removed is a LOT and my feeling is I wouldn't use it in a performance build as it leaves the deck very thin.

There is no drama using a 3mm head gasket on our motors but not such a thin deck!
 
bigaaron

bigaaron

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Apr 12, 2005
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IJ. said:
From memory the block when uncut is 198.5mm from the deck to the main saddles.

An uncut head is from memory 116mm exactly (I'll double check this a little later).
Click to expand...

I can tell you tomorow, I have a BRAND NEW 7m-gte shortblock waiting to get the rods resized for ARP rod bolts and then fully balanced! I will not build a 7m without ARP rod bolts and ARP head studs. .046" is over 1mm so if you also resurface the deck you are going to need a 3mm mhg! I agree with IJ, I would find another head. The 3mm mhg is going to cost more then buying a better used head that doesn't need it.
 
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suprarich

suprarich

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Nov 9, 2005
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If you are going to go through all the time and trouble to do such a complete rebuild, it would be foolish not to buy every ARP product for the 7m in the catalog.
 
Jaguar_5

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Thanks for the replies guys,

Suprarich: I've already come to that conclusion, now my concern lies within the Cylinder head...

Aaron, how the hell did you get a NEW shortblock?! Also, you say the rods need to be resized for the ARP bolts? Uh oh wish i knew that sooner, might have to order them for my machinist quickly before he balances everything

I'm planning on reusing the stock rods / pistons / crank. (as long as machinist says they check out ok) So MHG, fresh build, new rings, balance job (inc. press. plate and flywheel) and ARP mainstuds / rod bolts / headstuds.

So basically i should be able to handle anything an upgraded CT can dish out, right? so like 450 hpish?

In the future (as long as there was no overheating) What'll i need to upgrade the pistons? I won't need to resurface the block and head again, will I? I suppose just new bearings since everything will be taken apart, then boring the block, and cleaning up should suffice, right?
 
bigaaron

bigaaron

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Jaguar_5 said:
Thanks for the replies guys,
Aaron, how the hell did you get a NEW shortblock?! Also, you say the rods need to be resized for the ARP bolts? Uh oh wish i knew that sooner, might have to order them for my machinist quickly before he balances everything
Click to expand...

We got the short block direct from Toyota! The rods should be resized because the stock bolts have to be pressed out and the new ARP bolts pressed in, whick could make the large end of the rod slightly out of round.
It would just require a very light amount of machine work to do it so it's a good idea to resize them. You would probably be fine without it but who knows. I don't like to leave those type of things to chance, especially on a motor that is prone to develloping rod bearing problems.
 
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