rear subframe and alignment cams

[miekedmr]

I pulled my rear subframe apart to sandblast, reinforce it, and paint.
I couldn't get any of the bolts out at the 4 points where the cams are for alignment.
Q1: How do these come apart? Should I just be able to take the nut off and then pound the bolt through?
Q2: The suspension bars with the cams don't articulate freely. When I move them around it feels like they are just loading the bushing inside. (They spring back to where they were and have limited motion.) Should they move freely?
Q3: The original rubber subframe bushings are worn out and crumbling. What options do I have for replacing them? I would rather not mount it solidly.

 

[bluepearl]

Q1 You should not have to pound anything out. If you have to pound them, you will just peen over the end of the bolt and it won't slide thru the bushing anymore. Spray the crap out of them with some blaster or something similar, and then try to turn them out. You may tap lightly to clear the eccentric stop. Use a brass hammer or a block of wood or anything that is softer than the bolt itself. You may or may not have success with this. I got all mine free except one on my car, which I had to cut out and replace the A arm. If you do get any out, put them to the wire wheel and clean them. Use plenty of anti-seize for the re-installation. While you are there also straighten your eccentric stops. Your alignment tech will love you. Anti-seize is your freind in this situation.

Q2 What you described is normal. Remember: All final tightening of suspension bolts must be made at the vehicles ride height. This is because of the need for the bushing to have full suspension travel up and down with slight resistance. This action lets the bushing flex and is normal. This is for street driven vehicles, performance suspension will be differant.

 

[adampecush]

I'll share my experiences, since it seems you are in the same boat as I. I assume upstate NY has its share of salt on the roads in the winter.

For Q1, you should be able to pound the bolt through, but it is likely seized inside the bushing sleeve - try to get it out with penetrating oil and some pounding. If this fails, get your favorite metal cutting method ready, you won't be re-using the bolt.

Q2 -Thats how the bushings work. Realistically, the bushings don't have to turn all that much to accomplish a full sweep of suspension travel, so the rubber flexes.

Q3 - Replace them with stock parts from Toyota. I am assuming that it is the front 4 bushings that are toast - this was the case with my car. Fortunately, Toyota was smart enough to choose bushing sleeves that corroded preferentially to the subframe, so you shouldn't have any subframe damage...and the bushings should come out rather easily (air chisel does the trick). The inner bushings you can install by hand - the outer need a press unless you have Popeye forearms.

 

[Halsupramk3]

if you have the time put a weld bead behind the tab ear so it wont bend out easily. our bushings are rubber fused inside a metal tube. the tube with rubber makes a cartridge that is pressed into the arm. the cartridge does not move. the rubber flexes inside the tube/arm. This is why you have to tighten up the arm at ride height so that the rubber is in its natural rested state. it is not flexed up or down as bluepearl mentioned.

when i installed my suprerpro bushings i did not reuse the cartride metal sleeve and inserted the poly bushings into the hole in the arm where the sleeve was with lots of supplied lube. the super pro bushings slide around in arm all the way so i dont have to worry about tightening at ride height. I can not really reach them because my car is so low anyway.

if you can put a little heat to the stuck bolts with out heating up and damaging the rubber to help loosen the bolts. be careful because there is gasoline around. may be too dangerous. a good penetrating oil better than wd 40 will help. its the rust between the bolt and the crush sleeve that is holding it together. try to rotate it some and you may get the rust to start breaking and absorbing the oil. i think these bolts are a little pricey about $10 each or so.

 

[miekedmr]

thanks everyone!

 

[adampecush]

yes, the bolts are pricey...but they look so very nice...(yes I know one is facing the wrong way)

 

[Brewster]

Seized camber bolts FTL.