You buy bearings to fit what was taken off of your crank (And if they had to do more than a polish to the block for the mains and whatever they had to resize your rods to.) So for clearances, so long as you can buy bearings, that part is okay. If you've still got the hardness on the surfaces, you're okay, but if not, then the crank is too soft, and any contact at all with the bearings is far more likely to spin it. The bearings are deliberately soft to prevent damage to the crank in the event of contact, and the crank is hard to prevent deformation of the journal surface, which can grab the bearing and spin it.
As stated the hardening process is shallow, but your machine shop SHOULD be able to tell if it's useable. One of the larger problems for the crank with 0.75mm taken off is that it was really difficult to find bearings, though it is possible.
How much power are you shooting for? If it's more than 300 WHP, then it's worth finding another crank (Though this can be difficult
) If you're looking for stock power, maybe with a bit of boost control, but keeping under stock fuel cut, (Which is what I'll be looking for from the currently rod knocking 7M in my '89, where I'll use that crank that I have, unless a better one lands in my lap) then I would probably use it, though I would do so knowing that there's some risk attached.