Re-torquing stock head bolts, how hard is it to do?

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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How difficult and long will it be to re-torque the stock head bolts and to what amount? Like can it be done easily or is it kind of a big job?

I have searched and found mostly re-torques for rebuilt motors with ARP studs, different motors, etc. I am just talking about the stock 7m-gte motor and torquing the head bolts down properly until you can get ARP studs and a gasket. According to the online manual you just remove the head cover and it's right there, I see the order but what spec should I torque to about 75 ftlbs?
 

tyang82

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May 12, 2011
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yes, but i dont know if its ok to re torque because the old head bolts stretch. but if you want to try then its up to you. make sure cams are at TDC so you can get to the bolts.
 

Doat

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Should I just leave it as is? It's drivable at the moment I am just worried about blowing the gasket while I am driving, then again I won't be driving it much until I get a metal gasket, ARP studs, and the head machined.
 

tyang82

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dont forget to deck the block if you're going with a metal head gasket. but if you're getting all that then Id wait it out. but its really up to you these are old cars and you never know when something is gonna go wrong.
 

Doat

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Yea my friend assures me he could drive it to Austin, from Houston, and back without any issues but my old MK3 died because it overheated, most likely a BHG. I am really doing this for peace of mind and a preventative measure. Once I get the car I can be more detailed but I plan on driving it for a few hours that day, so I was thinking if torquing the stock bolts to proper spec would ensure the head gasket won't blow on me that day I just don't want to end up being stuck.
 

Doat

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No it's not overheating or anything there is only very light white smoke coming from the motor after a long drive but from what I have read on the forums that could be a turbo seal issue. Like I said once I pick up the car I'll be able to get more detailed.
 

tyang82

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Could be that or bad valve seals. I say don't beat on it and it should be able to get by until you can save up to rebuild the head with some arp's. Good luck dude
 

Doat

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My friend and the owner replaced the fluids a couple of months ago and drove it around for 2 or 3 hours with no issues. I plan on replacing some seals as well like the valve cover, maybe some of the main seals and such but people keep telling me if it ain't broke don't fix it, well I don't want to have to cross a broken bridge when I get to it I want to plan a route around it if you know what I mean lol. I don't plan on beating on it until I get that head gasket replaced and even then I won't get near the red line.

So just leave it alone and be gentle with it and I should be fine with driving it around for a few hours?
 

tyang82

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Well I don't exactly know the condition of the car to say yes. Any noise from under the hood? But if you're losing fluid, that's the sign right there.
 

Doat

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According to my friend the car is solid, no fluid loss, no noises, everything works, and according to the pictures the car is in damn near mint condition only minor cosmetic damage on the front bumper. 80k original miles and it has been garage queen most of its life being driven gently on the weekend.
 

Doat

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Yea I'll be replacing a lot of stuff over the years but not sure if I should just get everything and do it all at once or replace certain areas at a time like replace the radiator hoses one time then replace other hoses or seals another time.
 

Doat

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Yea I do have a daily driver that I will be using while working on this car, so I can wait to get all of the parts and seals for the motor to replace and just do it all at once. What seals and gaskets would you recommend other than the head and valve cover kit of course.
 

Doat

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One more thing, say the head gasket does blow out on me and it starts to overheat what should I do to get me home? Refill the radiator with coolant or I just have to tow it?