Re-torque?
- Thread starter Jayhall
- Start date
well jayhall, i didnt. think its been bout 1k miles maybe. did you help the head settle any when putting the heads on? like hit the head with a rubber mallet or tap the studs with a punch? i dont think it could hurt to check the torque though.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
It would require re-sealing the covers too, and re-applying rtv to the corners etc... but listen to these guys.
eric
eric
haha...I didn't re-torque mine...and I might have a bhg now at 5k miles. Although I doubt it's a bhg, I think it's a hose. If you don't want to pull the valve covers off and double check just to be safe...well...you might want to find a car that needs less attention 
haha. I don't know if you should or not though.
haha. I don't know if you should or not though.if you have a mhg gasket and arps i dont think you need a retorque.
What error in the gasket to deck fit are you trying to correct with a retorque?
If the aluminum head is forced down into the head gasket it will conform to the shape of the gasket. The aluminum will be pressed in some but i would think that the bolts will retain the miniscule amount.
But if you have a oem hg or one that is not a flat piece of metal all the way across when the head is forced into the gasket it will go further down past the fire rings because the gasket is not made of metal like the fire rings. When the head cools or the preasure is released the head will come to rest on the fire rings primarily and not on the rest of the gasket which is not made of metal. The fire rings were forced further into the head than the rest of the gasket on the oem gasket. A retorque at this point may make the gasket and head settle together better. I think i am relating my point properly, dont know.
But with a metal head gasket there is not any additional space created when the head and gasket compress under preasure to lower the torque reading any measurable amount because the gasket doesnt compress and the head may just a tiny bit just once but not enuf to make any difference in torque readings. The fit of the gasket to head is still uniform as it was when first assembled.
so:
with a mhg no retorque
with a eom you can retorque but it probably wont make any difference.
If you get a bhg with out a retorque it probably was from some other reason.
What error in the gasket to deck fit are you trying to correct with a retorque?
If the aluminum head is forced down into the head gasket it will conform to the shape of the gasket. The aluminum will be pressed in some but i would think that the bolts will retain the miniscule amount.
But if you have a oem hg or one that is not a flat piece of metal all the way across when the head is forced into the gasket it will go further down past the fire rings because the gasket is not made of metal like the fire rings. When the head cools or the preasure is released the head will come to rest on the fire rings primarily and not on the rest of the gasket which is not made of metal. The fire rings were forced further into the head than the rest of the gasket on the oem gasket. A retorque at this point may make the gasket and head settle together better. I think i am relating my point properly, dont know.
But with a metal head gasket there is not any additional space created when the head and gasket compress under preasure to lower the torque reading any measurable amount because the gasket doesnt compress and the head may just a tiny bit just once but not enuf to make any difference in torque readings. The fit of the gasket to head is still uniform as it was when first assembled.
so:
with a mhg no retorque
with a eom you can retorque but it probably wont make any difference.
If you get a bhg with out a retorque it probably was from some other reason.
JustAnotherVictim said:
dude some days im to lazy to put pizza pops in the microwave for 2 mins, lol, but if something has to be done then i will do it. Ive got a greddy 2.0 mm mhg, with studs, so i take it i do not have to re-torque, excelent, but, i may do it fro fun one day around 500 miles
What is the proper procedure to follow for retorquing? Do I have to pull one bolt out at a time and re-lube it and retorque or do i just apply more torque to stock bolts with the torque wrench to ensure that they are at the proper level or higher?