Quickly check this extremely ugly schematic for me?
- Thread starter Doward
- Start date
Doward said:
Are you trying to build some kind of test jig to test the wiring in your supra?
Cheers,
Roy
Checking....
edit: Looks OK but you did say quickly. Don't forget to check the theft trigger. Might want to put a NC button in that line.
edit: Looks OK but you did say quickly. Don't forget to check the theft trigger. Might want to put a NC button in that line.
I had thought about that, but if I apply 12v to the theft trigger, won't it just think the theft system is de-activated? I don't know enough about the theft system to know how it will affect the IR :3d_frown:
JJ, any links to which tool I need to pull out the pins of this relay pigtail? I seem to be having trouble getting them out... I (like the absentminded idiot that I am) forgot to mount the LEDs in the plastic case BEFORE soldering the tails!
RESULTS:
Orange LED #1 = Taillight Relay line
Orange LED #2 = Headlight Relay Line
Green LED #1 = Run between lines 5/9 (tests Retractor Motor Up function)
Green LED #2 = Run between lines 1/7 (tests Retractor Motor Down function)
Red LED #1 = Run between line 6 and ground (verifies Left Retractor Motor Relay)
Red LED #2 = Run between line 16 and ground (verifies Right Retractor Motor Relay)
Test #1 - FLIP SWITCH TO TAILLIGHT POSITION
Results: Orange LED #1 lights up.
Test #2 - FLIP SWITCH TO OFF
Results: Orange LED #1 shuts off.
Test #3 - FLIP SWITCH TO HEADLIGHT POSITION
Results: Orange LED #2 lights up AND Green LED #1 lights up for 9.8 seconds
Test #4 - FLIP SWITCH BACK TO OFF POSITION
Results: Orange LED #2 shuts off, Green LED #2 lights up for 9.7 seconds.
Ok, so it seems all functions are normal - EXCEPT - neither red LED lights up. Is it possible that the LEDs do not put enough of a load on the relay coil line, to pull the armature and light the red LEDs?
Orange LED #1 = Taillight Relay line
Orange LED #2 = Headlight Relay Line
Green LED #1 = Run between lines 5/9 (tests Retractor Motor Up function)
Green LED #2 = Run between lines 1/7 (tests Retractor Motor Down function)
Red LED #1 = Run between line 6 and ground (verifies Left Retractor Motor Relay)
Red LED #2 = Run between line 16 and ground (verifies Right Retractor Motor Relay)
Test #1 - FLIP SWITCH TO TAILLIGHT POSITION
Results: Orange LED #1 lights up.
Test #2 - FLIP SWITCH TO OFF
Results: Orange LED #1 shuts off.
Test #3 - FLIP SWITCH TO HEADLIGHT POSITION
Results: Orange LED #2 lights up AND Green LED #1 lights up for 9.8 seconds
Test #4 - FLIP SWITCH BACK TO OFF POSITION
Results: Orange LED #2 shuts off, Green LED #2 lights up for 9.7 seconds.
Ok, so it seems all functions are normal - EXCEPT - neither red LED lights up. Is it possible that the LEDs do not put enough of a load on the relay coil line, to pull the armature and light the red LEDs?
I use a needle probe similar to a straight dental pick to unlatch those types of pins. No doubt there's a proper extraction tool for them but I don't have any info on it.
Just bring a ground to 5 and 7 and see if the relays energize/red leds come on. If they do the IR is OK and any problems with retractor operation are going to be with the switches in the retractor assemblies. I'm not surprised to hear the IR checks out. You're just gonna have to do it in the car by checking what input signal is wrong. You can check the output wiring and devices by manipulating the same inputs you did in the test rig to see what works and what doesn't and then go from there.
Keeping 11 high should keep the IR out of theft mode. Bringing it low should trigger it. Test by disconnecting + 12 and connecting ground. You should get retractor up operation along with pulsating TL and HL relays.
Just bring a ground to 5 and 7 and see if the relays energize/red leds come on. If they do the IR is OK and any problems with retractor operation are going to be with the switches in the retractor assemblies. I'm not surprised to hear the IR checks out. You're just gonna have to do it in the car by checking what input signal is wrong. You can check the output wiring and devices by manipulating the same inputs you did in the test rig to see what works and what doesn't and then go from there.
Keeping 11 high should keep the IR out of theft mode. Bringing it low should trigger it. Test by disconnecting + 12 and connecting ground. You should get retractor up operation along with pulsating TL and HL relays.
I'll check it tomorrow, thanks for the information.
I'm not surprised that the IR is checking out ok, either - I've found that 95% of troubleshooting isn't finding out what's wrong - it's finding out what's right, and eliminating it from the list of things it could be.
ugh. Sleep now, Supra later.
I'm not surprised that the IR is checking out ok, either - I've found that 95% of troubleshooting isn't finding out what's wrong - it's finding out what's right, and eliminating it from the list of things it could be.
ugh. Sleep now, Supra later.
Grounding 5 and 7 causes an audible click from the internal relay, and red LEDs light up. This confuses me.
Pin 9 is the ground for pin 5 (signal travels out to the retractor switch and back) and Green LED #1 lights as it should. Why is this not closing the relay, and lighting the red LEDs as well?
Yes, I know that the relays work - I'm questioning if they are getting proper internal signal, though.
Either way, I'm trying to hunt down a pick to pull the pins, and do this all in car, right now.
Pin 9 is the ground for pin 5 (signal travels out to the retractor switch and back) and Green LED #1 lights as it should. Why is this not closing the relay, and lighting the red LEDs as well?
Yes, I know that the relays work - I'm questioning if they are getting proper internal signal, though.
Either way, I'm trying to hunt down a pick to pull the pins, and do this all in car, right now.
I don't know exactly how you have it wired but if you're limiting the current through the led to 20 ma and have it in series with the coil that's not going be enough for the relay. Doesn't matter. The IR is good.