i have the new ge torn apart and im taking the head to get it decked tommorrow(in prep for a metal head gasket). i was wondering if i could put the turbo on the ge and run it at stock boost for a couple weeks without hurting anything. the reason i ask is it will be so much easier to do it while im putting it in, rather than after it is in.my plan would be to buy the greddy emanage with the injector, and timing controllers and take it to a shop and let them install and tune the engine.
quick question about na-t
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I don't really know what you're asking. Are you talking about building the engine up for NA-T while the engine is out of the car? Or asking if running the turbo on a rebuilt engine right away will hurt it?
If you are talking about putting the turbo on with out doing any fuel system changes for the time being, then no. The stock system has no way to increase fuel while under boost. So the moment that it goes to positive pressure you will start to lean out and then you can say bye bye engine.
Putting the turbo on later once you have all of your fuel upgrades that you talked about is not that hard. It shouldn't take more then a couple of hours to remove and install all the stuff as long as you have everything that you need.
Putting the turbo on later once you have all of your fuel upgrades that you talked about is not that hard. It shouldn't take more then a couple of hours to remove and install all the stuff as long as you have everything that you need.
If the engine is out and disassembled put the turbo oil drain bung in the oil pan now. Then cap it off until you turbo it. Much easier than doing it with the oil pan on in the car. Then when you are ready just unbolt the NA manifold etc and put you GTE stuff on, pretty easy.
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
Get a turbo oil pan, so you dont destroy the integrity of the ge oil pan in the oil line tapping proccess
Getting a GTE pan won't help a bit as it doesn't have a drain in it:nono: Not sure what you mean as the stock GTE oil drain goes in the block.
I put my drain about 2 inches forward of the oil cooler return hole. Weld in a -10AN bung if you can.
Get your feed from the stock oil pressure sender, using a 'T' fitting between the block and the sender, mine is -4AN.
Search on this site and you will get all your answers.
I put my drain about 2 inches forward of the oil cooler return hole. Weld in a -10AN bung if you can.
Get your feed from the stock oil pressure sender, using a 'T' fitting between the block and the sender, mine is -4AN.
Search on this site and you will get all your answers.
thanks for all the info. one more question. do you think running the greddy emanage ultimate will be better for my setup, or should i try the megasquirt. im willing to spend 600 to 800 on an engine managment solution, so that puts the aem out of reach.
either or will be fine. The E-mang. would probably be easier to use and tune if you have never had any experiance with stand alone systems. Plus, there is probably more people out there that know how to use that tuning wise if you are not up for doing it youself that can tune the car for you. If you do choose to do it yourseld, then no matter which way you go about it, do all the research that you can into tuning the particular system and tuning a car ingeneral no point in destroying a good motor due to bad tuning. Especially when you are dealing with a motor with a steeper learning curve.
i'm pretty sure the stock ecu can compensate for the increased intake pressure, but just to be safe, i'd try to keep it out of boost until you got it properly tunedlifted said:
edit: guess not, but you could still go ahead and put it on, just keep a keen eye on the boost gauge, that's what i would do, but that's cause i'm lazy
no, the stock ecu will not work under boost. Well up to about 1 to 2 psi, and that is about it. Now there is a little trick that you can do by modding the stock airflow meter so that you can run larger injectors, and there for be less likely to go lean when under boost. Its not the best way to do it obviously, but it does work to an extent. Its a trick that can only be done to flap door style which is what the GE motors use. Typically you can add up to about 50% larger injectors, and there for have 50% more fuel and then need 50% more air which comes out to about 6 to 7 psi of boost. If you want more details about it, I can do a write up on it.
Remember though, its not the safest thing to do, but it does work to a point. Its an old trick that they use to do back in the 80's for add on turbos kits.
Remember though, its not the safest thing to do, but it does work to a point. Its an old trick that they use to do back in the 80's for add on turbos kits.
i think im going with this http://www.titanmotorsports.com/greul.html
from what i understand it will do injector controll, timing control, and air flow control right out of the box( it better for 680)
from what i understand it will do injector controll, timing control, and air flow control right out of the box( it better for 680)
make sure you research and know everything befor you spend a dime. know what your getting into and youll come out ahead.
we can help.
we can help.
I've heard horrible things about the E-Manage, especially the Ultimate. I wouldn't even touch that if I were you.
-Matt
-Matt