questions after rebuild

[sleepersupra]

ok i finished rebuilding the bottom end and the head, mhg arp studs and my question is after i got everything up and running there is still a small gurgle in the cab and the overflow tank is spitting a little out. just wanted to make sure i didn't miss anything and to just ride this out.

i have also only driven the car about 10 mi since doing everything.

thanks,
Mike

 

[miggles]

when i put my new motor in it took a while for the coolant to get worked through. Just jack the front up and give it a good burp. Did you have the heater on hot with the fan on full while it was getting filled/burped?

 

[sleepersupra]

when i put my new motor in it took a while for the coolant to get worked through. Just jack the front up and give it a good burp. Did you have the heater on hot with the fan on full while it was getting filled/burped?

ok i don't wanna sound stupid but i don't know how to burp the system.

 

[jdub]

when i put my new motor in it took a while for the coolant to get worked through. Just jack the front up and give it a good burp. Did you have the heater on hot with the fan on full while it was getting filled/burped?

This is true...it's gonna take a few heat up/cool down cycles to completely purge the system of air. Run the heater too as Miggles suggested and top off the rad when it completely cools down. This is "burping" the system...you just do it over a period of several days as you break in the motor.

What you don't want to do is heat cycle the motor by letting it idle. Run the car normally (vary rpm) to get a good break in on the motor.

 

[figgie]

Or just use this tool and be done with it

http://www.radcapproducts.com/airevac.html

pulls a vacuum on the cooling system and then fills it with coolant. Zero air in the system means no gurgling and definely no waiting for heat cycling or doing the inconsistant and not 100% burp method.

 

[jdub]

Or just use this tool and be done with it

http://www.radcapproducts.com/airevac.html

pulls a vacuum on the cooling system and then fills it with coolant. Zero air in the system means no gurgling and definely no waiting for heat cycling or doing the inconsistant and not 100% burp method.

Now that's a cool little device :icon_razz

 

[sleepersupra]

This is true...it's gonna take a few heat up/cool down cycles to completely purge the system of air. Run the heater too as Miggles suggested and top off the rad when it completely cools down. This is "burping" the system...you just do it over a period of several days as you break in the motor.

What you don't want to do is heat cycle the motor by letting it idle. Run the car normally (vary rpm) to get a good break in on the motor.

ok i appreciate it. is this exactly how i should burp it?

 

[jdub]

ok i appreciate it. is this exactly how i should burp it?

That's the way I did it :naughty: But, Figgie's way is better and faster.

Change your oil & filter after about 500 miles or so, do it again at about 1,500 miles and then switch to synthetic.

 

[sleepersupra]

ok sounds good thanks that makes me feel better

 

[nickel and dimed]

That's the way I did it :naughty: But, Figgie's way is better and faster.

Change your oil & filter after about 500 miles or so, do it again at about 1,500 miles and then switch to synthetic.

Not to say you are wrong, but my mechanic that is working on my rebuild at the moment says that once I get the car back to change to synthetic after 5000kms or ~3000miles. He is a very reputable mechanic and has worked on several 7Ms before. The reason he gave me is that the rings in the pistons will not seat properly with synthetic as it is too thin of an oil, plus alot of oil will get by since the rings will be not correctly seated. I agree will changing the oil after 500miles but I am not too sure on changing the oil to synthetic that soon.

Just offering my two cents, but please correct my if I am wrong.

 

[figgie]

Not to say you are wrong, but my mechanic that is working on my rebuild at the moment says that once I get the car back to change to synthetic after 5000kms or ~3000miles. He is a very reputable mechanic and has worked on several 7Ms before. The reason he gave me is that the rings in the pistons will not seat properly with synthetic as it is too thin of an oil, plus alot of oil will get by since the rings will be not correctly seated. I agree will changing the oil after 500miles but I am not too sure on changing the oil to synthetic that soon.

Just offering my two cents, but please correct my if I am wrong.

Well i can tell you your mechanic is WRONG.

the rings seat within the first 30 miles of driving. Hence the flog it method of breaking the motor in (motoman.com i think is the address). After that you can change to synthetic but the break in process MUST finish. But it does not take anywhere near 1000 miles to break in the rings even if grannying it.