Question for all you stereo guys out there

[Compton74]

Installed my 2 JL audio 10s along with a JL audio amp and a pioneer head unit last week. Now I did all the work myself and I love everything about it, except the drone in the lights I get when the bass hits. I know there is something I can run inline that will make this go away. I really really don't like watching my lights drone down when I'm listening to music even if it's very minimal, like mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RiyadYar]

the thing to hook up inline is called a capacitor basically it will charge up so when the subs are ready for some power to hit bass notes it will draw the power from the capacitor as opposed to the car battery. You may also need a higher amperage alternator

 

[sharpsupra]

+1 on the capacitor.....upgrade yer battery as well..... use at least a 1 farad cap.

 

[Grandavi]

My brake lights used to pulse to the music.. lol. I never noticed until I had my son help me replace a light bulb.

 

[radiod]

Usually a higher amperage alternator isn't necessary. I've got a stock alternator and was running an Alpine PDX 1.600 (600w) and MRP-F250 (200w) and had no problems with lights dimming or anything odd, even at idle. My cap was way overkill, rated for 2 farad. A 1 farad cap is usually plenty for most setups.

 

[connor.stephens]

Ive got an alpine pdx 5 pushing out 800 watts rms and I dont have any problems even with it turned wayyy up the only thing i notice is that my voltage gauge goes down a little when the sub hits

 

[te72]

I've also seen people running more than one battery, but those were some pretty ridiculous setups too.

 

[Compton74]

Cool deal just ordered one up, thanks for all The help guys.

 

[suprarx7nut]

When I worked at best buy, the install crew always said a capacitor should be used with a sub.

Thinking about it, I totally agree. That piece of equipment is adding a large, instantaneous draw of current that your car was never built for.

The stock sub amps in most cars, I would think, have a minimal capacitor built into the amp to help and they're still very weak subs compared to aftermarket ones.

My .02

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[GrimJack]

I've also seen people running more than one battery, but those were some pretty ridiculous setups too.

This is common enough, however the reasoning is similar to an RV setup, in that you have an isolated battery for the stereo. That way if you kill the stereo battery, you can still start and drive your car using the regular battery. As soon as your car is running, the isolator shuts off and the system will start to recharge the stereo battery.

 

[mnracer550]

go to an optima yellowtop battery. deepcycles are great for car stereos. how many watts is ur amp btw? a capacitor really is more of a bandaid and in my opinion really dont work that well.

 

[Compton74]

It's a 1000 watt amp, I'm not looking to go all out on the thing just wanted to see what I could do about the power drone. I'm not going to buy a yellow top, or a bigger altenator, just the capacitor, which cost me 20 dollars on amazon. Not planning for car shows the car is my dd and just wanted to add something to it to get the stereo to sound better, thanks for all the help. Whoever mentioned capacitor first nailed it, and when suprarx7nut came in and agreed I'm going to do it, mad props to you suprarx7nut to all your work. It's beautiful and simple keep it up.

 

[suprarx7nut]

It's a 1000 watt amp, I'm not looking to go all out on the thing just wanted to see what I could do about the power drone. I'm not going to buy a yellow top, or a bigger altenator, just the capacitor, which cost me 20 dollars on amazon. Not planning for car shows the car is my dd and just wanted to add something to it to get the stereo to sound better, thanks for all the help. Whoever mentioned capacitor first nailed it, and when suprarx7nut came in and agreed I'm going to do it, mad props to you suprarx7nut to all your work. It's beautiful and simple keep it up.

Thanks man. Look out for independently lit led needles in the next week or so. I have a set completed on my spare dash, just need to get it all back together and it'll be added to my lighting thread.

You could have blue needles and red gauges, white needles and red gauges... Etc. I'm doing red needles, white gauges. Very exciting.

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[Canuckrz]

mnracer is correct. Do a big 3 upgrade. A properly functioning electrical system shouldn't need a capacitor.

I'll post pictures of how I did mine later if I get a chance, it will also have other good side effects such as your windows going up and down faster, and sometimes better throttle response and idle.

 

[OfnaRcR4]

What kind of amp is it? I don't really think a cap really fixes anything, just bandaids it. With a healthy battery and alternator you shouldn't be having trouble with a mild setup though IMO. I'd rewire your alt and batt with 4 guage, a lot of resistance builds up through the years.

 

[Compton74]

It's a jl amp as well, maybe I will rerun some of the wiring, where do you think the best ground site is in the rear hatch?

 

[barkz]

capacitors are pretty pointless, mostly for show. cheapest/most effictive way to go its upgrading "THE BIG 3" your main power and grounds. Use 0 gauge wire for these and it should fix/lessen the dimming. if not an alt upgrade is the next step. and if u still go with the cap, make sure u follow the charging instructions, its not just plug and play. they need to be charged...CORRECTLY! bad things happen if not

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

It does depend on what you're using the cap for. It's a bandaid (And a poor one) for an electrical system that can't deliver, but it DOES help with certain issues with the actual sound, ie a slight voltage drop at the amplifier at the start of a big load draw, and a slight spike at the end of it. This happens because of the parasitic inductance of ANY wire, no matter how large, unless you're going to put your amplifiers very close to the current source (Battery/Alternator)

If you're getting dimming lights, then that's a completely different matter, since that's at the other end of that inductance. If it's affecting the whole electrical system that way, then there's a more systemic problem and a cap isn't going to help at all.

 

[suprarx7nut]

How would a capacitor not help? I realize a beefier battery/alternator and good robust wiring can eliminate the noticeable current draw when the sub hits, but I dont see how you could say a capacitor wont help. The capacitor stores potential. That potential is saved up and ready for when the amp needs a quick draw of power. It helps alleviate that sudden surge of power required for the amp. If nothing else, it smooths out that power draw.

Granted, the capacitor is good only for as long as the capacitor can give out energy. That might be 0.25 seconds or it might be 5 seconds, pending the required power from the amp and assuming it has had time to "charge" since the last draw.

Maybe this is one of those things that looks good on paper, but doesn't actually work in reality. :dunno:

 

[sharpsupra]

i have allways used a cap in my car installs....provided the battery is in good condition and charging sytsem..wireing etc....i believe they help stabilize voltage spikes. however....ya gotta use heavy ga wire and keep the cap as close to the amp as possible. every time a subj about caps comes up....some folks say they dont work...whatever lol....but when it comes down to push n shove ....use heavy ga wire 4 yure amps....keep the ground wire the same size as the power and keep it as short as possible. cap or no cap.....a good wire job will be key to great sound and maximum amp output.