I stopped by the body shop the other day to see how much they wanted to fix the surface rust thats starting to appear and a new paint job. The rust thats thats starting to appear is coming from right under my moldings on my doors. When the guy at the body shop looked at it he told me that the rust is coming from the moldings because the moldings have a metal support that always rusts. So he told me to totally stop that you need all plastic moldings. I was wondering if this is correct info that i got from this guy and if so where can i find these moldings? -thanks
Question about moldings
- Thread starter peachtits
- Start date
Check around the forums in the parts for sale section, or on ebay!!!! I have seen complete sets go anywhere from 75.00 to 200.00. Or put up a post on the parts wanted section I am sure someone can help you out. The 89+ molding are all plastic and they are easy to paint if you want them to color match to your car. I have only worked with the 89+ molding so they might mount a little different than pre 89 mabey someone else can help you out with that. I personally would look for a whole set but if you are really needing them I have 89+ molding off of the front fenders on both sides only. You can have them for free just pay shipping!!! pm me if you are interested.
Good luck
Good luck
Thanks for the information, yea im just gonna find a full set of 89+ moldings and prolly get that painted the same color as the car is, but thanks anyways for the offer.
Another thing, you guys think $1800 for full paint...includes door jams and engine bay and all body work is a good price? let me know what you think
Another thing, you guys think $1800 for full paint...includes door jams and engine bay and all body work is a good price? let me know what you think
you can still buy the moldings brand new, but they are really expensive (like $800) I replaced my 87 moldings with 89+ that I bought from a guy on this forum for a MUCH better price. Just be patient finding them.
p.s. old moldings vs. new
p.s. old moldings vs. new
Another thing, you guys think $1800 for full paint...includes door jams and engine bay and all body work is a good price? let me know what you think[/QUOTE]
Thats pretty fair!!!! Keep in mind prices on everything 1 gal primer, sealer, base, high gloss glear is like $350 - $400. Shop supplies like paper, filler $100 roughley. The rest is labor!!! If you are switching colors I would find out what they are taking apart on the car before paint. Hopfully they are removeing all gaskets targa/door ect, door handles, pulling window moldings and rear side windows. Tape lines are evil and most shops just tape up the moldings trim ect. So just make sure you know what you are paying for. I pulled my car completely apart I did not want a tape line or overspray anywhere and to get to everything you need to pull a good chunk of the interior out of the car. When I painted my car all that was left in the car was carpet and 2 front seats. Keep in mind quality is king so make sure you choose a shop or a private individual that can show you some of their work. I personally think you could save some money by finding a private guy or small shop that takes pride in there work. You will probibly get the best job and save some money.
Good Luck
Thats pretty fair!!!! Keep in mind prices on everything 1 gal primer, sealer, base, high gloss glear is like $350 - $400. Shop supplies like paper, filler $100 roughley. The rest is labor!!! If you are switching colors I would find out what they are taking apart on the car before paint. Hopfully they are removeing all gaskets targa/door ect, door handles, pulling window moldings and rear side windows. Tape lines are evil and most shops just tape up the moldings trim ect. So just make sure you know what you are paying for. I pulled my car completely apart I did not want a tape line or overspray anywhere and to get to everything you need to pull a good chunk of the interior out of the car. When I painted my car all that was left in the car was carpet and 2 front seats. Keep in mind quality is king so make sure you choose a shop or a private individual that can show you some of their work. I personally think you could save some money by finding a private guy or small shop that takes pride in there work. You will probibly get the best job and save some money.
Good Luck
I know private guys who have the ability to lay down a good paint job, but they dont have the tools nor the place to do it... the local shop i am going to does excellent work, i have seen them them spray a full car, with no tape lines no nothing, came out awesome, so i trust them. I already have more than enough money to cover the paint job, so i think im going to trust them and go ahead and do it once the snow and salt is gone off the roads, for now im just gonna search for some moldings.
shaeff said:or you could sand the rust off the backs of the moldings, and use the spray on P.O.R. 15 to stop it from happening again... then just paint your moldings, and they'll last forever, AND look good.
-shaeff
Hell yeah. That POR 15 stuff is amazing. I using it on my control arms, gas tank and diff. They have a few colord available. 1. chassis black, 2. new metal, and the other was just gloss black. It is supposed to be the shit in classic car restoration, and Chip Foose has also made good coments on it
whats the best way on the 87 trim peices to put clips back on them? I have heard of people melting them back on... could u somehow glue them on and make it last?
shaeff said:or you could sand the rust off the backs of the moldings, and use the spray on P.O.R. 15 to stop it from happening again... then just paint your moldings, and they'll last forever, AND look good.
-shaeff
The problem sometimes is like mine, where the metal warps, breaks the clips, and in quite a few places the metal is gone. Mine were really warped. The body underneath was fine, but it wouldn't have been for long the way things were going. I had to replace mine. Could be this fine Pennsylvania humidity lol.