pulled the head today, stuck valves

RIPDOTCOM

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May 22, 2005
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Well I was about 99% sure it was the head gasket due to #1 and #2 giving no compression but it turns out that 1 of the exhaust valves on #1 is stuck open and both on Clyinder #2. There was also one open on #3 but after I tapped it in and loaded it down with some penetrant it appears to work as well as all the others. I am certain that the HG was bad too due to a bit of corrosion on the head near the lifters on #1 and #2. I know this is getting long but I do have some questions.

#1 whats the best way to free a stuck valve?
#2 after putting the HG on what should I torque it too (seems like there are a few different opinions)
#3 do I need to torque the head in a couple weeks?
#4 Anything else I shoul dcheck for while the head is off? Should I replace anything else while in there (besides the timing belt)
#5 if I cant get these 3 final valves to free properly should I try to replace the valves myself or is it pretty difficult?

I have to say that I was simply amazed when I pulled the valve covers. The head has absolutely no oil stain on it and it looks like brand new aluminum. So does the bottom if it. I will get some pics up but it's my opinion that the previous owner had the head replaced and they simply didnt do a good job of putting the HG in. Another thing that leads me to think this is that it took me all of 5 minutes to pull the exhaust manifold which is pretty odd for a 20 year old car. Hopefully its a fairly new head.
 

GrimJack

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Dec 31, 1969
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First, (before IJ gets here :D), have the head tested for hardness before doing anything else. If it fails the hardness check, strip if for parts and throw it out, it's eaiser to find a new one.

Now for the other stuff that I have any knowledge on.
#2 - torque to 72-75 foot pounds if using stock headbolts. If using ARP hardware, torque to what they suggest in the instructions.
#3 - MHG & new ARPs - good idea. MHG & used ARPs - not required, but can't hurt. OEM Gasket - maybe. Sorry, but nobody can agree whether this is a good idea or not.
#4 - cam oil seals, heater union on the back, probably the #3 engine cover that bolts over the spart plug valley.

If this engine was running with stuck valves, I'd be seriously concerned with the condition of the valve guides, valves, seals, springs, shims, buckets, and cams on those locations.

If you have the head out of the car, drill out and helicoil the exhaust stud holes, makes them MUCH tougher.

Buy new valve cover gaskets. They only cost $20, and they save you that much in oil in a month.

Replace the valve cover bolts with decent stainless hardware. The stock philips head bolts suck bigtime.
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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valves getting stuck?

man that should NEVER happen.

This is usually inidicative of the valve wearing down to much. Might have to get the valve guides inspected and replaced. Of course another culprit COULD be that oil got to the valves and harndened but I doubt that oil will cause the spring not to pull through that shit.
 

RIPDOTCOM

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May 22, 2005
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Springs are fine. i just soaked the head in a bunch of penetrant and manually opened and closed the stuck valves a dozen or so times and everything is back in order. Im puttin the head back on today , wish me luck