found this product while surfing today. Do you think it is worth it ? http://www.autoenginelube.com/pages/903473/index.htm
Prestart lubrication.
- Thread starter ToyoHabu
- Start date
i belive its a good idea.. does it make a difference? meh i doubt it, if your starting your car every day.............. the design is solid though
I use a Moroso 3qt accumulator that can work this way but it's a PITA remembering to Give it a rev then close the valve at the last shutdown for the day so it will have pressure for the next start!
I just set my ECU up so it cranks a few times before it fires as a prelube.
I just set my ECU up so it cranks a few times before it fires as a prelube.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I have the 3 quart Canton setup on my car. It uses a teflon lined tube with a piston inside that seperates the air from the oil.
There are two benefits from this setup.
1)You can pre-lube all bearings in the engine before you start it every time.
2)You never have low oil pressure due to oil being sloshed off the pickup during cornering, accleration or deceleration. The sump would push oil back into the engine.
You need a one way valve to make it work right, otherwise, some of the oil being pushed back is going out through the oil pump, and that does you nothing bearing wise.
This kit is just a fire extingusher and a electronic valve. You can make your own for less. This kit also requires you to mount the sump tank straight up and down. The Canton setup can be mounted in any position. (Mine is acting as the subwoofer grille.
There are two benefits from this setup.
1)You can pre-lube all bearings in the engine before you start it every time.
2)You never have low oil pressure due to oil being sloshed off the pickup during cornering, accleration or deceleration. The sump would push oil back into the engine.
You need a one way valve to make it work right, otherwise, some of the oil being pushed back is going out through the oil pump, and that does you nothing bearing wise.
This kit is just a fire extingusher and a electronic valve. You can make your own for less. This kit also requires you to mount the sump tank straight up and down. The Canton setup can be mounted in any position. (Mine is acting as the subwoofer grille.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Just this shot of the block and the fittings taking the oil out, and then back into the engine.
I need to shoot a few of the sump/sub box, and plumbing nighmare that now inhabits my engine bay.. LOL
I need to shoot a few of the sump/sub box, and plumbing nighmare that now inhabits my engine bay.. LOL
The reason I dont think it is worth money is in their own words. No oil will get around to lub the bearings until the crank is rotating. The crank rotating creates low pressure in front of it that lets the oil flow. Any pre-luber will put pressure their, but you will not enter the hydrodynamic state unless the crank is turning.
That is why bearings are replaceable. They will get some where at start up.
Is it reducing wear at start up? I just dont think so.
That is why bearings are replaceable. They will get some where at start up.
Is it reducing wear at start up? I just dont think so.
a good synthetic oil and something like lucas synthetic oil stabilizer will stay between the bearing and crank for a long time without the motor running.... therefore, no dry starts..
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Nick, I think that to the bearing, 30psi is 30psi. There are groves in the bearings to help move the oil around them as well.
I can tell you this.
When I forget to pre-lube before I hit the starter, I can tell the difference in how much work the starter has to do to turn over the engine. With the oil flowing, it just spins right up and starts.
If I forget, it cranks harder, and is not as quick to start up.
I only have mine on to start, and when I'm horsing around. Most of the time I leave it off. (After it's filled back up with oil.) You have to check and make sure your oil level is right when there is up to 3 quarts of spare oil being stored, the last thing I want is to end up low in the crankcase.)
10 quarts puts me at the "full" mark on the dipstick with 55psi in the sump. (Full of oil when it's cold and the oil pressure is the highest right after I start up the car.) On really cold days, I've seen almost 80psi a few times. (Look at the gauge when I park the car, I shut off the switch after about 1 min of run time when the car is warming up.)
Then I have shut down the engine, and checked the oil level, and that is the full mark @ 10 quarts.
So, I run 11 quarts all the time.
Plenty of oil, and plenty of space between the crank and the oil level in the pan, even with a quart or so from the sump if that ever happens.
When I first started up the engine, I was running 12 quarts, but that turned out to be slightly too much, even with a full sump. (Blowing oil out the PCV hoses at that point under full RPM operation.)
Keep in mind, I have a 3 quart sump in the rear of the car, 1 quart full flow filter, 1 quart bypass filter, an RX7 Turbo oil cooler that holds at least a quart or more with an internal thermostat built into it.) And every thing is plumbed with 21' of AN10 line total, plus about 9' of AN4 line between the bypass filter and the turbo supply line. There are some 13 odd AN10 swivel fittings, 6 AN4's, at least as many AN adapters for each location, and that's just on the outside of the motor. Inside there are another two AN10's and fittings for the pump to block line crossover. Earl's really should have bought me dinner after this car was done.
I can tell you this.
When I forget to pre-lube before I hit the starter, I can tell the difference in how much work the starter has to do to turn over the engine. With the oil flowing, it just spins right up and starts.
If I forget, it cranks harder, and is not as quick to start up.
I only have mine on to start, and when I'm horsing around. Most of the time I leave it off. (After it's filled back up with oil.) You have to check and make sure your oil level is right when there is up to 3 quarts of spare oil being stored, the last thing I want is to end up low in the crankcase.)
10 quarts puts me at the "full" mark on the dipstick with 55psi in the sump. (Full of oil when it's cold and the oil pressure is the highest right after I start up the car.) On really cold days, I've seen almost 80psi a few times. (Look at the gauge when I park the car, I shut off the switch after about 1 min of run time when the car is warming up.)
Then I have shut down the engine, and checked the oil level, and that is the full mark @ 10 quarts.
So, I run 11 quarts all the time.
Plenty of oil, and plenty of space between the crank and the oil level in the pan, even with a quart or so from the sump if that ever happens.When I first started up the engine, I was running 12 quarts, but that turned out to be slightly too much, even with a full sump. (Blowing oil out the PCV hoses at that point under full RPM operation.)
Keep in mind, I have a 3 quart sump in the rear of the car, 1 quart full flow filter, 1 quart bypass filter, an RX7 Turbo oil cooler that holds at least a quart or more with an internal thermostat built into it.) And every thing is plumbed with 21' of AN10 line total, plus about 9' of AN4 line between the bypass filter and the turbo supply line. There are some 13 odd AN10 swivel fittings, 6 AN4's, at least as many AN adapters for each location, and that's just on the outside of the motor. Inside there are another two AN10's and fittings for the pump to block line crossover. Earl's really should have bought me dinner after this car was done.