hey guys i currently have a 7mgte...but the turbo currently has bad seals..Ive had a nice fresh turbo with possibly 1-2k miles on it laying around..jdm....is there any prep i need 2 do before installing it?..a friend of mine said theres dried up coolant in it or what not i wasnt paying attention...but this turbo has possibly been sitting around for 2 years...thanks for any input
Prepping turbo for installation?..
- Thread starter FlipSupra8
- Start date
Flush the coolant passages with distilled water, and flush the bearing passages with fresh oil.
Put turbo on car. Hold the compressor blade still while someone cranks the car over (full the EFI fuse) until you have oil pressure.
Crank the car up while still holding the compressor blade (DO NOT REV THE CAR UP) and let the car idle for 5-10 minutes to ensure good, hot, fresh oil running through the turbo. (it will idle without the AFM hooked up, don't worry)
Release the wheel. The turbo should freewheel with no scraping or any other metal on metal noises.
Hook everything back up and take it for a test spin
Put turbo on car. Hold the compressor blade still while someone cranks the car over (full the EFI fuse) until you have oil pressure.
Crank the car up while still holding the compressor blade (DO NOT REV THE CAR UP) and let the car idle for 5-10 minutes to ensure good, hot, fresh oil running through the turbo. (it will idle without the AFM hooked up, don't worry)
Release the wheel. The turbo should freewheel with no scraping or any other metal on metal noises.
Hook everything back up and take it for a test spin
5-10 minutes while holding the compressor wheel is a bit extreme from what i've read up on. When i installed my turbo i held it for maybe a minute after it had been turned over, let it sit, then again for a minute. This of course was after a few times of cranking for 10-15 sec each. I also pre-lubricated mine as a precaution.
Yah that seems to be a bit much IMO. I just did dry starts, and then spun it by hand a few times and fired her up and let it idle.
Sorry guys, I don't do things half-assed.
Besides, if you have a fresh turbo filled with assembly lube, you need the 5-10 minutes for the oil to warm up and wash it all out of there.
Is a few extra minutes worth what could be a few good years of turbocharger use?
I do this same method regardless of the turbo or engine. I have never had a turbocharger failure - not 100% because of the priming technique I use, but it certainly doesn't hurt
FWIW, I ran over 16k miles on an ebay 'Super T70' with zero problems. I still have that turbo packed up in the garage. The turbo lasted longer than the engine (cracked 2 cast pistons on a V6 @ 21psi)
Besides, if you have a fresh turbo filled with assembly lube, you need the 5-10 minutes for the oil to warm up and wash it all out of there.
Is a few extra minutes worth what could be a few good years of turbocharger use?
I do this same method regardless of the turbo or engine. I have never had a turbocharger failure - not 100% because of the priming technique I use, but it certainly doesn't hurt
FWIW, I ran over 16k miles on an ebay 'Super T70' with zero problems. I still have that turbo packed up in the garage. The turbo lasted longer than the engine (cracked 2 cast pistons on a V6 @ 21psi)
nice i agree with doward...i never half ass either...anyway by flushing i just pour the distilled water threw the place where dipstick mount was and the coolant lines right?..and for the oil i pour that threw the oil line for the bearings?...do i put any oil on the shaft??...I really never dealt with any turbo installations so i want to do everything on point....
If the coolant lines are still connected, just put a small funnel in one and literally run distilled water through it.
If you want to be really thorough, flush in the direction of coolant flow, and then flip the turbo around and flush in the other direction - called a back flush
Oil through the oil feet line, correct. Due to the way the turbo is built, I don't think you'd have any reason to backflush the oil path.
Do not mix the two up (water in the oil line, or oil in the water line)
If you want to be really thorough, flush in the direction of coolant flow, and then flip the turbo around and flush in the other direction - called a back flush
Oil through the oil feet line, correct. Due to the way the turbo is built, I don't think you'd have any reason to backflush the oil path.
Do not mix the two up (water in the oil line, or oil in the water line)
Most people don't do it but make sure the oil feed line is very clean. In fact many turbo shops as part of their warranty require the lines be replaced...
All damn good ideas
JJ's right about that - oil must be CLEAN. You know how they say the tiniest piece of trash can fubar your mains and rods? imagine that on smaller bearings, tighter clearances, and about 10x the RPM.
You CAN NOT screw around when it comes to the oil system on a turbocharged vehicle.
JJ's right about that - oil must be CLEAN. You know how they say the tiniest piece of trash can fubar your mains and rods? imagine that on smaller bearings, tighter clearances, and about 10x the RPM.
You CAN NOT screw around when it comes to the oil system on a turbocharged vehicle.
Plugs out Fuel off I crank till I see pressure at the gauge reinstall plugs fuel on and fire.....
Never had a failure doing this, I don't do anything fancy with the Oiling system to the Turbo and have never owned a Turbo Timer.
I don't get the whole don't let the Turbo spin while priming scenario as I can't see it actually moving with no ignition events, if it's got pressure I can't see a reason NOT to start it and let it run/spin.
I do however agree 100% with ensuring the supply and drain lines are in perfect condition and there are no obstructions.
Never had a failure doing this, I don't do anything fancy with the Oiling system to the Turbo and have never owned a Turbo Timer.
I don't get the whole don't let the Turbo spin while priming scenario as I can't see it actually moving with no ignition events, if it's got pressure I can't see a reason NOT to start it and let it run/spin.
I do however agree 100% with ensuring the supply and drain lines are in perfect condition and there are no obstructions.
Ian, the sheer airflow through the motor will make the turbo spin. I prefer 0 spin until oil pressure is up, is all.
The reason I hold the turbo still is that many of the installs I've done are brand new turbos, and I like to flush them with hot fresh oil before allowing them to spin.
The reason I hold the turbo still is that many of the installs I've done are brand new turbos, and I like to flush them with hot fresh oil before allowing them to spin.
what are the chances of metal getting into the turbo from a fresh engine build "break in and seating wear metal"
Dow: They're spinning so slowly if at all on cranking I really can't see it making any difference whatsoever, as for flushing it through on a new install you should always prime it with the drain into a container to be 100% certain the Turbo has Oil flow anyway, soon as it has it's good to go.
I really don't get it but that's just me.
NWS: The main gallery is on the other side of the filter so unless it's blocked with crap and bypassing there should be no way of crap getting to the turbo bearings.
I really don't get it but that's just me.
NWS: The main gallery is on the other side of the filter so unless it's blocked with crap and bypassing there should be no way of crap getting to the turbo bearings.
Christ I am not a morning person. Looking at that post trying to figure out what wasn't work safe about it LOL
Mine never spun on cranking, and barely/ doesn't move at idle. Even if it did I don't think theres enough load to cause an issue, thats what assembly lube/dry starts is for in the first place. Each to his own, but what does the manual say