prep for storage?

[mattman]

I just got my first car(1986.5 supra) this year. The car is in great shape execpt some minor rust spots and im planing to keep it that way. I'm a storage noob and would like some help on preping the car for storage. all fluids are fresh, but i dont know if i should change the oil before or after the storage and if i should have a full tank or empty tank of gas. i was told to change the oil before so the crud wont settle,and to have a full tank of gas.
if your a storage expert please share some of your wisdom.thanks.

 

[lppro]

the only thing i know to do is put sta-bil in the gas so it dosent go bad. and it never hurts put some fresh oil in her! (= and also make shure there is coolent and antifreze and not just water. water by its self in the cooling system for long periods of time isnt good.

 

[Mk3Jesse]

i would fill the entire engine full of oil. like where oil is coming out your oil cap full depending on how long you are going to let it sit.

 

[slidebabyslide]

I don't know about storage for cars but for PWC i work on them all day this month , because most people want them winterize.
i WILL tell you what we do to the PWC.

Check your intake system for moisture and if there is . Try to clean it of spray some WD40 and then some anti-corrosive spray in there that last longer than wd40.
Cover all your holes or openings that you might have in the intake system and exhaust to keep all animals from going in there.
Replace oil and oil filter.
check spark plugs(if there ok put them back)
FOG THE CYLINDERS spray some fogging oil in the cylinders when you have the spark plugs out. crank it a couple of times but don't start it. Then spray some more again but don't crank it.
spray the spark plugs and install.

Make sure you disconnect you battery and you put in on a smart charger so it wont go dead over the winter.

Make sure you add fuel stabalizer and run the motor for a couple of minutes untill you think the stabalizer has reach your injectors.

check you cooling system , make sure you have coolent. Like stated above by LPPRO. In PWC we flush the cooling system if it needs it.

Lube all cables with anti corrosive oil .

You can also take off your valve cover of and spray the cams with some anti-corrosive oil . (we only do this if the customer wants to pay for the valve cover gasket and labor:thumbup:

The you spray your engine and engine bay and your exhaust system with anti-corrosive spray
Ok there is more to a PWC then that, but for a car i belive thats all i can help you with.

 

[jdub]

i would fill the entire engine full of oil. like where oil is coming out your oil cap full depending on how long you are going to let it sit.

Do that and you risk getting oil in the cylinders. Familar with the term "hydrolock"?
This is not a good idea :3d_frown:

 

[Mk3Jesse]

Do that and you risk getting oil in the cylinders. Familar with the term "hydrolock"?
This is not a good idea :3d_frown:

well you drain the oil before you crank it back up..
and hydro lock is when you get water in the cylinders from my understanding?
Ive done this with motorcycle when i keep it in storage when it snows in the winter and never had a problem?

 

[jdub]

Since liquid does not compress, any liquid (including oil) will hydrolock a piston in the cylinder. This motor fills from the top of the valves...a motorcycle doesn't. If you fill the motor to the level you suggest (an obscene amount of oil), the level will be above the valves...if it seeps into the cylinders, draining the oil will not remove it. You will have to remove the spark plugs and inspect each cylinder...if oil is present, you'll have to turn the motor over manually to place the piston(s) full up and remove it with a syringe.

 

[slidebabyslide]

hahaha, you beat me to it. lol

 

[slidebabyslide]

I have seen people burn up starters because of oil.

 

[jdub]

Yeah...saw that...great minds think alike

Your method of winterizing is very thorough...well done.

 

[americanjebus]

i do this every year man. what i do is:

fill tank to brim like to the top of filler hole.
pour some 15/40 oil in it w/ lucas stabilizer cus its sticky. (normal amount) drain in spring.
take out battery.
buy like 3 boxes of moth balls at $ store and scatter 1 in hatch, front seats/glovebox area/ and a few randoms in the engine bay.
box of baking soda on floor, (leave in box) for odors that build up.
i put my car on jackstands, just because.
It is exposed to lots of wind because its outside in a covered car park so i dont use a car cover, w/ the wind i have found that if it isnt a great quality cover it will get coarse and just rub against the paint for like 5 months. instead i lay down some heavy wax.

1st startup or intermediate startups involve not having the EFI fuse in and cranking until oil pressure shows up. Takes longer w/ the thicker oil though.

 

[slidebabyslide]

Yeah...saw that...great minds think alike

Your method of winterizing is very thorough...well done.

Thanks...that really means a lot coming from you.

 

[Mk3Jesse]

Since liquid does not compress, any liquid (including oil) will hydrolock a piston in the cylinder. This motor fills from the top of the valves...a motorcycle doesn't. If you fill the motor to the level you suggest (an obscene amount of oil), the level will be above the valves...if it seeps into the cylinders, draining the oil will not remove it. You will have to remove the spark plugs and inspect each cylinder...if oil is present, you'll have to turn the motor over manually to place the piston(s) full up and remove it with a syringe.

oh ok, i was not aware of this. Thank you for correcting me.

 

[Poodles]

I always just started and ran it around the block every week if I could...

but all that sounds about right for what should be done. The jackstands part is pretty crucial too, as you don't want flatspots on the tires...

 

[Ckanderson]

i would fill the entire engine full of oil. like where oil is coming out your oil cap full depending on how long you are going to let it sit.

this is probibly the worst idea ever.

 

[jetjock]

Well, that method is very common for preserving aviation engines that cost a whole lot more than this one and I know people who do it with auto engines. Truth is few things work better. That said it's almost always done with the engine out, say in a crate or on a stand. I agree it's not a good idea with the engine installed due to the hassles and risks involved in bringing it back to service.

Sticking just with the engine the best way of preserving an installed one is done using the same method used for installed aircraft engines. It's called flyable storage and is good for at least 6 months. The procedure has been used by NASA, the military, ect, for decades. I've used it many times on cars as the needed items are readily available.

Basically it involves changing the oil (better to replace/mix it with Aeroshell 2F, which works as well in cars) and running the engine for 10 minutes. That's followed by fogging/spraying each cylinder through the plug holes with Aeroshell 2F, (or WD-40, LPS, ect) while turning the engine over with spark and fuel disabled, installing desiccant plugs in place of the spark plugs, closing all openings (intake, exhaust, PCV, ect) with humidity tape or bagged desiccant, and a few other minor procedures. Thereafter the crankshaft should not be rotated until the engine is brought out of storage.

At minimum change the oil *before* you put the engine to sleep and leave it alone after that. The worst thing you can do is periodically start, idle, or drive the engine a short distance. An engine (in storage or not) that is run without reaching full operating temperature plus 30 minutes will generate a lot of sulphuric acid in it's oil. Idling to operating temperature is insufficient and bad for other reasons. The rule is if you start it, drive it at least 45 minutes to one hour. If you can't do this leave it alone.