I've had this problem since the rebuild. I thought i figured it out when i found the injectors were miswired, but did not help.
Problem: Rapid, on off power throughout RPM. Most noticeable when engine is cold but still noticeable at any temp. Boost it is noticeable extra as well most likely since im producing all the more power then all the less.
What ive done:
-Replaced plugs
-new wires
-check coil packs - all getting voltage and all proper resistance
-CPS - all proper resistances
-ISC - all proper resistances
-Ignitor - i assume is working since coils are getting voltage?
-Rewired and rechecked injector wiring
-Monitored AFM readings, checked out ok: 34Hz at 1K idle, 1400+hz full throttle
-Boost leak test - none
-Vacuum system - tested with boost test, no leaks
-New feul filter
FYI - injectors are RC injectors, bought new. Have 4K on them along with the engine
Symptoms:
-On off power most noticeable when cold
-High idle, ~1K
System readings:
-20-25 inHg vacuum
-Boost full 12-12.8PSI and holds
-oil pressure 5-40PSI, 60-70+PSI cold start
-AFM - 35Hz idle
-Knock senor - 0
-Idle ~1K
-Fuel pressure - 38PSI idle, 58PSI full boost
- Temps - normal 150-200 depending on conditions
- AFR - KEY Power is syncronous with AFR seen in vid below. This is a narrow band AFR (this is not used to tune), however power issues are in sync with it. Red is lean, green is rich. Counterclockwise = leaning out.
You can see in vid AFR remains steady breifly then dramtically oscillates as does the power. noctice tach in background is steady.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_sQSQBsobA
EDIT (add on)
Pulled plug 6 and 4 to check what they look like with about 2.5K miles on em:
Pics came out a bit blurry but they seem like they are much more black then they should be.
Spark #6 a
Spark #6 b
Spark #4
Also wondered if anyone could tell me if this wire should be attatched somewhere? if so where?
EDIT 2
Replaced ignitor just in case. No change. Odds of two bad ignitors are very very slim from what i understand.
Problem: Rapid, on off power throughout RPM. Most noticeable when engine is cold but still noticeable at any temp. Boost it is noticeable extra as well most likely since im producing all the more power then all the less.
What ive done:
-Replaced plugs
-new wires
-check coil packs - all getting voltage and all proper resistance
-CPS - all proper resistances
-ISC - all proper resistances
-Ignitor - i assume is working since coils are getting voltage?
-Rewired and rechecked injector wiring
-Monitored AFM readings, checked out ok: 34Hz at 1K idle, 1400+hz full throttle
-Boost leak test - none
-Vacuum system - tested with boost test, no leaks
-New feul filter
FYI - injectors are RC injectors, bought new. Have 4K on them along with the engine
Symptoms:
-On off power most noticeable when cold
-High idle, ~1K
System readings:
-20-25 inHg vacuum
-Boost full 12-12.8PSI and holds
-oil pressure 5-40PSI, 60-70+PSI cold start
-AFM - 35Hz idle
-Knock senor - 0
-Idle ~1K
-Fuel pressure - 38PSI idle, 58PSI full boost
- Temps - normal 150-200 depending on conditions
- AFR - KEY Power is syncronous with AFR seen in vid below. This is a narrow band AFR (this is not used to tune), however power issues are in sync with it. Red is lean, green is rich. Counterclockwise = leaning out.
You can see in vid AFR remains steady breifly then dramtically oscillates as does the power. noctice tach in background is steady.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_sQSQBsobA
EDIT (add on)
Pulled plug 6 and 4 to check what they look like with about 2.5K miles on em:
Pics came out a bit blurry but they seem like they are much more black then they should be.
Spark #6 a
Spark #6 b
Spark #4
Also wondered if anyone could tell me if this wire should be attatched somewhere? if so where?
EDIT 2
Replaced ignitor just in case. No change. Odds of two bad ignitors are very very slim from what i understand.
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