.
Thanks guys for coming to my aid! I am getting close with my new car, but having a few problems with fuel I believe. I have had Noah89T over to help out, and we had some things we couldn't figure out. He helped me set a base fuel pressure as per TSRM with the Vacuum hose off first, but I believe we left the pressure too high. I've followed his advise after some searching, and lowered the base pressure. I believe it's good now set at 34 with hose off and plugged, and down to 28 with the hose hooked back up. But, we noticed that it is not holding pressure for even a minute after turning the car off. Noah gave me several things to check there, including checking fuel pump, pressure regulator, and injectors. Could it be possible that one or more of my connections is not tight enough in my installation? And, if so, wouldn't it leak from that point?
We also had trouble checking my VF Signal as per this illustration:
http://racing.generationz.net/images/isnms/vffueltrim.jpg
The trouble we had was that with my low dollar multimeter was receiving a signal that fluctuated constantly. I tried again today, and it still fluctuated a little, but not as bad. I would make adjustments with my Apex-i AFC NEO. Every time I would get close to 2.5, it would jump to 3.5 every time. I could estimate pretty close for every adjustment before I saw the reading. When it should read 2.5, sometimes it would even say 2.5 and then change to 3.5. Other times, it would read 3.5 before I even saw it. Is that a fluctuation within my motor, or a sign of a faulty multimeter?
Upgrades to the car include:
CT-26 with T04 H wheel (near 57 trim)
Lexus AFM
PTE 550 injectors (from ebay , but flow tested good)
Apex-i AFC-NEO
Walbro Pump
Aeromotive FPR
Driftmotion spearco replica Intercooler
2.5" Hardpipes wit T-bolts
Aftermarket Air Filter
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Codes have been checked, and I'm showing:
43......Starter Signal ........Probably caused by the ignition bypass I ran with a push button start. My wire was weak, so I bypassed it with a switch. I still have to have the key turned to start the car. I learned this through a search, but code 43 was never mentioned in that thread.
51 No......... IDL signal or A/C Switch issue ...........I suspect poor wiring here. I had to tap into the igniter wire to get a signal for my tach on the NEO. I found my A/C compressor had no plug on it's wire today, and cut a connector off of an old bad compressor to fix it today. I cleared the codes and drove the car, and these two codes came back.
I have a few other issues with my harness, and I'm currently putting together money to buy a brand new harness. As I type this, I wonder if the harness could also be at fault for my eratic readings as well.
Sorry to go so long, but I wanted to give as much info in this post to save from having it be asked. Thank you for any help you can be.
Thanks guys for coming to my aid! I am getting close with my new car, but having a few problems with fuel I believe. I have had Noah89T over to help out, and we had some things we couldn't figure out. He helped me set a base fuel pressure as per TSRM with the Vacuum hose off first, but I believe we left the pressure too high. I've followed his advise after some searching, and lowered the base pressure. I believe it's good now set at 34 with hose off and plugged, and down to 28 with the hose hooked back up. But, we noticed that it is not holding pressure for even a minute after turning the car off. Noah gave me several things to check there, including checking fuel pump, pressure regulator, and injectors. Could it be possible that one or more of my connections is not tight enough in my installation? And, if so, wouldn't it leak from that point?
We also had trouble checking my VF Signal as per this illustration:
http://racing.generationz.net/images/isnms/vffueltrim.jpg
The trouble we had was that with my low dollar multimeter was receiving a signal that fluctuated constantly. I tried again today, and it still fluctuated a little, but not as bad. I would make adjustments with my Apex-i AFC NEO. Every time I would get close to 2.5, it would jump to 3.5 every time. I could estimate pretty close for every adjustment before I saw the reading. When it should read 2.5, sometimes it would even say 2.5 and then change to 3.5. Other times, it would read 3.5 before I even saw it. Is that a fluctuation within my motor, or a sign of a faulty multimeter?
Upgrades to the car include:
CT-26 with T04 H wheel (near 57 trim)
Lexus AFM
PTE 550 injectors (from ebay , but flow tested good)
Apex-i AFC-NEO
Walbro Pump
Aeromotive FPR
Driftmotion spearco replica Intercooler
2.5" Hardpipes wit T-bolts
Aftermarket Air Filter
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Codes have been checked, and I'm showing:
43......Starter Signal ........Probably caused by the ignition bypass I ran with a push button start. My wire was weak, so I bypassed it with a switch. I still have to have the key turned to start the car. I learned this through a search, but code 43 was never mentioned in that thread.
51 No......... IDL signal or A/C Switch issue ...........I suspect poor wiring here. I had to tap into the igniter wire to get a signal for my tach on the NEO. I found my A/C compressor had no plug on it's wire today, and cut a connector off of an old bad compressor to fix it today. I cleared the codes and drove the car, and these two codes came back.
I have a few other issues with my harness, and I'm currently putting together money to buy a brand new harness. As I type this, I wonder if the harness could also be at fault for my eratic readings as well.
Sorry to go so long, but I wanted to give as much info in this post to save from having it be asked. Thank you for any help you can be.
