Parts Back from Machine Shop and Oil Pan turbo oil return welded(Pics No 56k)
- Thread starter JT87NA
- Start date
JT: Very nice 
!
Did you have the CC's coated?
Couple things to check on the Oil drain though: Is it in line with a Rod? and is it high enough to be above the Oil Level when the motor's full?
! Did you have the CC's coated?
Couple things to check on the Oil drain though: Is it in line with a Rod? and is it high enough to be above the Oil Level when the motor's full?
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IJ. said:JT: Very nice
Did you have the CC's coated?
Couple things to check on the Oil drain though: Is it in line with a Rod? and is it high enough to be above the Oil Lever when the motor's full?
What do you mean "did I have the CC's coated"? Combustion Chambers?
The spot where the bung is welded is where the stock oil cooler return is plumbed to. So it will be above the oil level. I just drilled it out to be the same diameter as the new bung. The old hole was only 12mmx 1.25.
Yep Combustion Chambers!
I wasn't being a knob or hanging shit I was just wondering as I've seen Turbo's that flood with oil and smoke because of those 2 issues I mentioned.
(If it's in direct line with a rod the oil that's flung off at high rpm can be enough to block the drain as it depends on gravity)
I wasn't being a knob or hanging shit I was just wondering as I've seen Turbo's that flood with oil and smoke because of those 2 issues I mentioned.
(If it's in direct line with a rod the oil that's flung off at high rpm can be enough to block the drain as it depends on gravity)
IJ. said:
Lol, no the chambers are not coated, that is just carbon, the head only had 15k on it since a full rebuild with 5 angle valve job so I didn't even pull the valves out when the machinist milled the head. He vacuum checked each valve before and after machining and hot tanking the head in aluminum cleaner. He also cleaned my block by hot tanking it in aluminum cleaner so my frost plugs would be ok.
I know you were just looking out for me on the oil drain thing...but I know for a fact that it is below the oil line...not positive about being inline with a rod, but if Toyota placed the drain their for the oil cooler it should be in a good spot for a turbo oil return. I even know of a few people using the 12x1.25 hole without problems on the stock ct-26 without problems.
LOL damn I'd hoped that they were coated I wanted to know how it worked out! (they look coated in the pic!)
I really hope the line "but I know for a fact that it is below the oil line" is a typo and you meant it's above the oil level! (pretty sure you did)
As for Toyota putting the drain in the right spot they wouldn't care with the cooler line as it's a pressure bleed so even if it's fully covered it will still work but Turbo drains are fussy little bitches about back pressure (would hate to see you do all this and have the Mystery smoke)
If it's in line a simple fix is to weld a small sheetmetal flap that stops splash covering the hole!
Just hold the pan onto the block then tilt it on it's side and you'll see if it's in line with a rod ideally you'd want it in line with a main cap!
If you have a look at how Toyota did the GTE's it's half way up the block and exits in the middle of a main cap.
(they look coated in the pic!)I really hope the line "but I know for a fact that it is below the oil line" is a typo and you meant it's above the oil level! (pretty sure you did)
As for Toyota putting the drain in the right spot they wouldn't care with the cooler line as it's a pressure bleed so even if it's fully covered it will still work but Turbo drains are fussy little bitches about back pressure (would hate to see you do all this and have the Mystery smoke)
If it's in line a simple fix is to weld a small sheetmetal flap that stops splash covering the hole!
Just hold the pan onto the block then tilt it on it's side and you'll see if it's in line with a rod ideally you'd want it in line with a main cap!
If you have a look at how Toyota did the GTE's it's half way up the block and exits in the middle of a main cap.
IJ. said:LOL damn I'd hoped that they were coated I wanted to know how it worked out!
I really hope the line "but I know for a fact that it is below the oil line" is a typo and you meant it's above the oil level! (pretty sure you did)
As for Toyota putting the drain in the right spot they wouldn't care with the cooler line as it's a pressure bleed so even if it's fully covered it will still work but Turbo drains are fussy little bitches about back pressure (would hate to see you do all this and have the Mystery smoke)
If it's in line a simple fix is to weld a small sheetmetal flap that stops splash covering the hole!
Just hold the pan onto the block then tilt it on it's side and you'll see if it's in line with a rod ideally you'd want it in line with a main cap!
If you have a look at how Toyota did the GTE's it's half way up the block and exits in the middle of a main cap.
Lol yes it is a typo I meant to say above the oil line.
Cool that makes me feel better!
Now get it back together and run in and post some vid up I really need some inspiration! (dragging my feet badly here)
Now get it back together and run in and post some vid up I really need some inspiration! (dragging my feet badly here)
Hey JT87NA I was planning on using the same position for my oil return, but IJ brings up a good point. My motor is still assembled so I can't check but could you let me know when you put your pan on if the old oil return hole lines up with a main or not???
Thanks.
Thanks.
Cool, thanks and I will keep an eye on this thread for your answer when you put the pan on. I have heard of guys using the hole as it is, but I already have SS braided lines with the -10 end so I was planning on just enlarging the oil cooler hole to suit. I know some guys have been OK but others were not so lucky and I don't want to risk it.
I have a spare block and pan I'll check it out in an hour or so when I go out to work and post what I find.
I'm NOT saying it won't work or that you'd have issues I was just posting a concern from past experience.
I'm NOT saying it won't work or that you'd have issues I was just posting a concern from past experience.
Smack bang in line with #3 rod!
Again I'm NOT saying this will cause an issue I blanked it off on my NA/T.
Again I'm NOT saying this will cause an issue I blanked it off on my NA/T.
Very welcome JT!
May not be a problem but better to head it off now rather than the PITA of dropping the pan again later!
May not be a problem but better to head it off now rather than the PITA of dropping the pan again later!