Overheating/coolant loss on long trips

dannydavi

New Member
Mar 19, 2007
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Clearlake Ca.
Hey guys let me break it down for you.

I have an 86.5 Supra n/a automatic. It currently has JDM engine in it as I replaced the old one after it seized up on me.

As of a couple months ago I've had to periodically replace coolant with no visual signs of loss. The more I drive it, the more I notice it mostly occurs when going over mountains up hills etc on long trips. I thought BHG already?!?! and looked for milky solution under oil cap, dipstick and during oil changes and everything was good there. I did a compression check and it was perfect (200-202 psi all cylinders on warm engine), also no white smoke out of tailpipe so I set my attention at other probable causes.

Before my next two hour trip I bypassed my heater core all together, no more hoses going in or out of the firewall. The reason I did this is because my heater would sometimes out of the middle of nowhere start blowing cold air... even though it was just blowing hot and I am still on the same trip yada yada... so I bypassed it just to make sure it wasn't the cause, and that next trip proved it wasn't, overheated again as soon as I hit a hill. I let it cool down then I took the thermostat out and put more water in and it got me the rest of the way.

Next week I had to come home and it overheated again. So bypassed heater, removed thermo, did common BHG checks, and replaced radiator cap to no avail, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated guys. Feel free to ask as many questions as possible.

NOTE: It was overheating around town at one point as well and that's why I replaced the radiator cap cause I heard air and saw water coming out of there. So no more around town over heating but still mountain/long trip overheating. Also the coolant loss might just be from the coolant overflow after it is running hot... cause I'm not sure where it is going.
 

bioskyline

New Member
Oct 21, 2010
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powell river bc
heater blowing cold air after hot air is normaly a low collant sign, no water in heater core = no heat. as its still seems to leak witht he core bypassed i dont think the core is gone

pressure check the cooling system, see if it hold pressure. could be a simple as pinhole in a hose that leaks under load, wont leak when parked. also is the overflow bottle holding water/coolant? does it boil over when you shut it off? is coolant even circulating? (blockage in the cooling system?)
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
bioskyline;1700075 said:
heater blowing cold air after hot air is normaly a low collant sign, no water in heater core = no heat. as its still seems to leak witht he core bypassed i dont think the core is gone

pressure check the cooling system, see if it hold pressure. could be a simple as pinhole in a hose that leaks under load, wont leak when parked. also is the overflow bottle holding water/coolant? does it boil over when you shut it off? is coolant even circulating? (blockage in the cooling system?)
Not always, can be a sign that the Climate Control for the Mixer door has failed.
 

dannydavi

New Member
Mar 19, 2007
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Clearlake Ca.
bioskyline;1700075 said:
pressure check the cooling system, see if it hold pressure. could be a simple as pinhole in a hose that leaks under load, wont leak when parked. also is the overflow bottle holding water/coolant? does it boil over when you shut it off? is coolant even circulating? (blockage in the cooling system?)

Yes when I notice the temp gauge going up and I pull over there is plenty of hot air blowing into the reservoir causing it to bubble out. Lately I take the reservoir cap/hose out to conserve all possible water on long trips. I wait for it to stop blowing hot steam. I will see about a pressure check today. Is that a cheap rad cap attachment for a gauge I already have? Yes coolant is circulating. I will also get right on checking the radiator... any good ways to check for blockages? I can run a garden hose into it and see if it backs up with upper and lower hoses off of it....

---------- Post added at 04:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:01 PM ----------

also note that I don't have a fan shroud on my car. It broke off some time ago and never posed a problem over the last couple years. I do want to get another one, haven't gotten around to it :s and I read somewhere that a fan clutch isn't supposed to let you easily turn the fan? Is that so? cause I can turn mine really easily.
 

bioskyline

New Member
Oct 21, 2010
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powell river bc
one of these
cooling-system-pressure-tester.jpg


i also got a uv light and leak dye to check for leaks aswell, making finding the leak easy. dump dye in rad, pressureize, the look it over with the light to see if you can spot the dye


and as checking the rad, i use a graden hose in the bottom and let it flow out the top, any junk should come out the top, dont really have to seal it as, as it should flow freely thru, if it starts backing up then somethings wrong.

and no the fan should be somewhat stiff to turn by hand.

*edit* ill be a lil m ore clear on how i check for blockage. pull the rad and lay it pipe? side up. leave the cap off. stick hose in lower pipe and turn tap on.
 

dannydavi

New Member
Mar 19, 2007
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39
Clearlake Ca.
bioskyline;1700091 said:
one of these
cooling-system-pressure-tester.jpg

Ok thanks, I called my local parts store and they have one I can rent.

bioskyline;1700091 said:
i also got a uv light and leak dye to check for leaks aswell, making finding the leak easy. dump dye in rad, pressureize, the look it over with the light to see if you can spot the dye

Is that at a parts store too?

bioskyline;1700091 said:
and no the fan should be somewhat stiff to turn by hand.
hmmm so grabbing a fin and flicking it and watching the next 4 or so fins pass is bad and I should get a new fan clutch?
EDIT: ok so I over exaggerated only two fins pass when I flick...