Other things to change while head is off

[DOUBL3 D]

Alright so it looks like I'm suffering from the infamous BHG, so while the head is off I'm curious as to what other things I need to/are required to change when doing this. One thing I have looked at is getting DM's soft oil line kit as I heard its very difficult to keep the oil from leaking upon reinstallation. I also am figuring that a new gasket kit for the intake manifold and exhaust manifold probably wouldn't go aloof either. I'll check vaccum hoses and replace as necessary as well. While in there I plan on changing the plugs and possibly wires along with doing the Napa oil washer mod in the valley, along with cleaning things up. This is my first hg change (I'm having a mechanic help me) but I want to make sure I do it right.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[jake8790]

All coolant hoses, valve seals, and check valve shim clearance. Make sure you use an OEM gasket for the EGR cooler plate on the back of the head.

 

[Cyrus]

gaskets and hoses, as many as you can get to and can afford. i used oem gaskets for head gasket, egr cooler, throttle body, turbo oil return. other than those, i used an eristic gasket set i got on ebay for $40.

if you can afford it, have the head professionally cleaned at a machine shop. also have them check it for straightness and for cracks. wouldnt hurt to have them mill the gasket surface on the underside. if your valve stem seals are old, now is the time to replace them before they start leaking oil into the cylinders.

pay attention to the TSRM. use its torque specs (unless you have bolts manufactured by a 3rd party that specify different torque, like ARP) and follow it step-by-step exactly. dont forget "little things" like using FIPG where it says to.

also, regarding the turbo oil return, i dont think it is so much that it leaks after reinstallation... it is more just that it can be an absolute bitch and a half to get back on, because it is a hard line. if it gets bent at all during removal, it wont line up correctly and you have to do a lot of trial and error fitment. mine took me well over an hour to get on, and caused me a lot of frustration. fucking copper washers.... if i had to do it again, id probably get the softline kit from DM.

 

[mkiii222]

+1 and +1

While you have the valve springs out doing the stem seals I'd go ahead and replace them with Comp Cams 975-12.

Also wouldn't hurt to do the timing belt/tensioner if it hasn't been done in a while. And the DM exhaust stud upgrade kit if your exhaust studs are anywhere near iffy. And the cam seals if the gasket kit doesn't have them.

 

[Cyrus]

^-- good call on the exhaust studs, i knew i was forgetting something.

dont bother trying to gauge the iffyness of your studs. just pull em out, helicoil, and put the new coarser thread studs in. i found out the hard way that this is key on a 20 year old aluminum head. you dont want to have to drill the stud holes after the head is already back on the block in the car.

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-716exhauststudkit.php

 

[Numba1Stuna]

^ Exactamundo! Yeah, I just got done using the Helicoil on my exhaust studs last week. Half of mine were trashed. Glad I noticed it before attempting to put the head back in!

 

[DOUBL3 D]

Thanks for everyone's help so far, as far as valve seal replacements what is recommended?

 

[mkiii222]

I just used a viton set off eBay that I got for under $20. If you want better quality DM has a set for $40.

 

[jonahs_supra]

things that should be inspected/replaced

valve cover gaskets
check turbo shaft play
valve clearance check/adjust(replace shims as needed)
intake gaskets
injector o rings
check pcv hoses going from throttle body to valve covers to accordian hose(they tend to crack)
throttle body gasket
egr gasket
headgasket
headbolts or if you want arp headstuds
exhaust gasket
turbo to manifold gasket(if you remove turbo from manifold)
downpipe gasket
turbo oil feed/drain gasket
turbo oil drain to block
turbo coolant feed/return gasket
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
have machine shop check for straight mount surface
have machine shop inspect valve cuts and replace stem seals
valve cover phillip head bolts should be replace b/c they strip and are PITA to remove
cam seals
idk what condition your harness is in but i would recommend a knock sensor rewire(preventative maintenance)
replace oil and filter
flush cooling system
coolant hoses inspect/replace as needed
vaccum hoses inspect/replace as needed
replace spark plugs
ohm check spark plug wires
clean ground spots
DOING THIS WILL REASSURE THAT YOU WONT HAVE MANY PROBLEMS WITH LEAKS OR OTHER B/S DOWN THE ROAD


just as CYRUS stated turbo oil hardlines. its not that they leak its that their a PITA to reinstall correctly

 

[Mr.Yuk]

Another thing to consider is that Oil + Coolant = Acidy type stuff in oil pan which car wreak havoc on the main and rod bearings. Depending on how long BHG was happening, you may want to consider bearings... I had to.