OK Head is off, does this look like any messed up valves??

[phoenix6]

OK I finally got my head off, in hopes that the ticking noise was a stuck valve. None of the valves LOOK stuck open but maybe they are stuck closed, I cant tell!? Anyways, Anyone wanna help? Heres some pictures to assist:

Cylinders 1 - 6 in order:

Rest of the block from above, also images are in order 1 - 6:

So is there any possible way this is a valve related issue still? Or did I just do ALL of this for fucking nothing and its rod knock?? It was a ticking noise, consistant with RPMs and didnt really affect performance. Knock sensor shut the car off 3 times while I babied it home but other than that, it wasnt loosing power too much from what I could tell.

 

[Kai]

Ai ai ai! That head and block needs a serious de-coke! Haven't seen that much carbon in an engine since my '86 Ford V6! :aigo:

I'd wouldn't be surprised if that much carbon buildup was what was causing the car to bitch and complain :/

 

[IJ.]

Well either way the head had to come off as #6 looks like it has excessive blowby going on the amount of Oil in there!

99% certain the KS can't shut the motor all it will do is pull timing.

Grab a set of feeler gauges and measure the valves if you have a loose one you'll spot it in seconds but normally with wear our valve train will close the gap.

If it was loud my guess would be rod knock but maybe if it's an Auto it could also be a cracked driveplate but this is an outside clutching at straws chance!

 

[phoenix6]

No its 5 speed. The oil in the #6 cylinder on the last pic? just stuff that leaked when I pulled the head.

I already started pulling the valves, exhaust side is already out, next is intake, then off to a machine shop.

I just was wondering, Brn2DRV or whatever his sn is sent me a vid of his stuck open valve and it was a consistant tick with the RPM band from IDLE which is exactly what mine was. I need to ask him if he saw his head when they took it off.

Anyways, it is a bit messy. How much are feeler gauges and how hard is it to get the valve keepers back in without the right tool? Im taking them out using a sock with a magnet inside it, works great, but what about the reverse process?

The car didnt lose power but it did shut down on me 3 times on the drive home, whats that from then if its not the KS

 

[IJ.]

Nah I was looking at the first block pic #6 just looked wet!

If you had a stuck open valve it's really noticable both in performance and when you pull the head.

You'll need a spring compressor to get it back together and it might be an idea to have the machine shop assemble it and set the valve clearances.

Not sure why it shut down sorry!
(as I said I thought the KS would only pull timing and not shut it down but I'm not 100% certain on this as I don't run a stock ECU)

 

[phoenix6]

IT is rod knock... I turned the crank back and forth and when I raised the 3 and 4 pistons, I heard *clink*...lower, nothing... raise *clink*

Its a fucking rod bearing isnt it?

I swear, I dont have money for this, how much are bearings and how hard are they to replace when the engine is out of the car?

 

[Kai]

IJ - what do you think about recommending the use of Coca-Cola to decarbonise that head? I think it needs decoking - you?

 

[phoenix6]

Heads getting an acid bath, machining, and maybe new valve train. Found out bearings are like $50 for a set, need anything else? Im buying a mount and hoist soon and Im pulling this bitch out, chaning the bearings, oil pump and other shit that needs it. 2 months MAXIMUM time to do this, I need a car and that alone is gonna kill me.

 

[IJ.]

Pheonix: Ummm not to be a dick but "How long is a piece of string"....

You won't know until the Block is out and stripped and the damage is assessed.

Kai: I'd hand the head to the shop and say "make it so"

 

[phoenix6]

Really? Ill take a vid and show you what I mean later, I mean it just explains it, all of it. I know I know, but lets say its a rod knock and its a bearing I gotta replace, total how much should this cost for a DIYer

 

[Kai]

IJ - sell out!

 

[mickyg]

Worst case scenario if it's rod knock:

1. Replace crank
2. replace rod bearings
3. replace main bearings (just because you might as well)
4. replace one or more rods
5. damage to cylinder block due to bearing pieces floating around in the engine

That last one can include cylinder bore damage, crankshaft tunnel damage (bearing caps and the oposite side of the block form the "tunnel" that your crank sits in).

At the very least, I'd plan on a crank grind to repair any damage to the rod journals (there's likely to be at least some damage) and if the bearing has spun on the rod, you'll have to have the rod repaired or replaced. The big end of the rod often ends up getting stretched when you spin a bearing.

I've got no idea on pricing info for you. Really depends on the shop and how bad the damage is.

 

[phoenix6]

Car ran 3 mins total at LOW speeds after knock began, after than, shut down, never again to be run. Been 3 weeks. I found bearings for $50 for the set (Clevites) but what are the main bearings? NVM, ok, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings and thrust washers = $78 before shipping. So far, so good. This shouldnt kill me in the wallet. Ill have the crank micropolished while its out as well. This should'nt be a kick in the nuts.

 

[supramacist]

depends on how much you want to spend, you could probably afford a swap is my guess. for what it's worth.

 

[supramacist]

The most of the lot of your pictures were serious..., neglect for a lack of a better word. If that was my engine, I wouldn't rebuild it. I would swap it. And maybe upgrade the tranny even. Those are the worst pics I have seen, I thought my crap was arsed out. You need a total rebuild. Swap to the gte man. More bang for your buck. It wasn't only six that looked wet. Did you guys rub dirty oil inside there or had you even made an effort to clean it. My shiat was clean when I opened it up. My head is at the shop basically being rebuilt. If your head looked like your block did, I would even get a port and polish. spend the 300 bucks man. Keep that car alive even if you have got to get dr. frankenstien on it. We have to begin preserving each and every one of these cars that are still rolling. I want to get original sticker price for mine in another 10 years. I will to cause my shit is going to be tight.

 

[phoenix6]

Im rebuilding the N/A motor for a bigger cost than I anticipated b4. Ive only had this car 6 months, I didnt do all that shit in 6 months alone. The wet coolant u see leaked in there when I took off the head bc I took off the intake manifold halfway so coolant leaked out of its coolant ports.

The carbon build up is nasty I agree. Im redoing the engine top to bottom with new parts, the only internals that will most likely remain the same is the crank and the block and head themselves.

Ive got a parts list and everything ready, just time to get the money to pay for it.

I realize the engine LOOKs bad but it really isnt as bad as those pics make it seem. This thing CAN and will be rebuilt then over the next year Im gonna do the same to my GTE over a longer period of time since I need alot of extra new parts for the turbo including the turbo itself.

 

[supramacist]

I'm glad to hear your going to stick with it. I am sure it looks worse than it did after you guys cleaned it up. It'll get you down, It'll probably even kick you a bit. But stick with it and keep it up. I used a 3 inch brass wire wheel to clean the most of everything. I did the block with it and a few other things like the exhaust manifold.

 

[phoenix6]

Well my Ex manifold is rusted, but I think its surface rust, I wanna clean it. Im gonna use a wire wheel on he valves, or is this a really bad idea? The block, head are getting some nice acid baths. Everytime I think about all the cleaning up Im about to do, and fixing it, I get pumped to do all this. I cant wait to be honest, Im nuts.

Waiting on $$$$

 

[supramacist]

DON'T TOUCH THE VALVES WITH WIRE WHEELS. Just pay for a valve job at the machine shope in your town. The wire wheel on the exhaust manifold is grand. You may want to invest in a Dremel, as well. I'm paying to do what you are willing to do yourself the head is close to the heart of the engine. Just keep waiting on that money..., been there. Still am.

You need valve seals badly.