hi, my motor was recently rebuilt, 1000 miles ago, for the first 1k i was just runing Na filter stud with filter. now that i have a oil filter relocator with a larger then stock oil cooler , also installed an autometer oil temp gauge, i have seen 250+ just from driving around the block. i was thinking though the oil temp sender is Teed of my stock oil pressure port that is in between my SS oil pressure line. would that be a bad place to place the sender?
Oil temp is HIGH
- Thread starter dustysupramk3
- Start date
250 isn't all that bad. Could be lower though.
Either an instrument error or the real deal. Either take a candy thermometer and shove it down the dipstick tube or measure the oil pan temp. An infrared gun is a nice tool to have for this sort of thing and can be used for everything from checking the cat to checking for dead cylinders to pinpointing cooling system and AC problems. For less than $100 and no burned body parts it's a smart buy.
Check compression (blowby). Does the oil quickly turn black? Is there excessive pressure on the PCV system? Oil cooler have a thermostat? Is the cooler hot to the touch? What is the coolant temp? Timing ok? Mixture ok?
Either an instrument error or the real deal. Either take a candy thermometer and shove it down the dipstick tube or measure the oil pan temp. An infrared gun is a nice tool to have for this sort of thing and can be used for everything from checking the cat to checking for dead cylinders to pinpointing cooling system and AC problems. For less than $100 and no burned body parts it's a smart buy.
Check compression (blowby). Does the oil quickly turn black? Is there excessive pressure on the PCV system? Oil cooler have a thermostat? Is the cooler hot to the touch? What is the coolant temp? Timing ok? Mixture ok?
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QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
dustysupramk3 said:
What size oil cooler, and where is it located. Also make sure no air is in the radiator keeping the engine hotter than usual. I had this problem and when I relocated my oil cooler all is kool now. What size oil cooler do you have. Mine is 8x11x1.5 70266 B&Moil cooler. Hell today it is 40 degrees, and my oil never gets to 180 degrees until I am stopped for a while. At firstI had it underthe head light. Now I have it in between the IC and ac compressor core. Wehn addinfmy Bomex replica big mouth bumper my temps dropped 30 degrees when driving. When I added my hood srvingtemps fell 30 degrees as well. I cruise in the summer at 175 degrees and it never goes over 185-190 when stopped. Now I cruise all day at 145 degrees after heating up the engine.:biglaugh:
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QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
donnys90T said:
Wrong 250 is bad....keep that up and bering fatigue is emminent. That oil is too hot and will decrease engine life over time.
heres where the sender is at
and this is the location of the cooler
also i checked the timing and its fine.
and this is the location of the cooler
also i checked the timing and its fine.
now, correct me if i'm wrong, but don't you want the oil between 180*-200*? it was my understanding that the B&M oil cooler/ 180* t-stat that i'm running, the oil doesn't go into the cooler until it reaches 180*. oil that's too cold is just as bad as oil that's too hot...
-shaeff
-shaeff
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
also check this out. custom fabbed :icon_bigg the cooler has no valve stat just directly connected
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
I was just thinking the head starts to warp at temps of 250* right? Since the cooling system runs at around 190-200* you wouldn't want to oil running much hotter than that right?donnys90T said:
I know it won't be a uniform temp all around the engine but it should be somewhat consistent correct?
I think you were addressing the eminent failure comment more than mine but I'm just curious.
Keep in mind the head's primary method of thermal dispersion is by using coolant...not oil. That's the reason for the passages inside 
For it to warp, there needs to be other forces at play...over torqued head bolts, unevenly torqued head bolts, etc. 250 deg F is not going to affect the head very much by itself (unless something else is amiss). "Imminent" failure is not a factor here.
Yes, 250 deg F is a bit high...nothing a good oil can't handle though. Concerning the bearings, the same thing...might increase the wear a tiny bit. But if you are using a good oil, it should not be a factor either.
For it to warp, there needs to be other forces at play...over torqued head bolts, unevenly torqued head bolts, etc. 250 deg F is not going to affect the head very much by itself (unless something else is amiss). "Imminent" failure is not a factor here.
Yes, 250 deg F is a bit high...nothing a good oil can't handle though. Concerning the bearings, the same thing...might increase the wear a tiny bit. But if you are using a good oil, it should not be a factor either.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
I was addressing the "it's going to blow up" comment. It's not true but the original poster needs to find out whats up because high oil is bad for other reasons. The oil imparts little thermal energy to the head. It's job is not only to lubricate the engine but also to cool some of it's hottest parts. It's usually hotter than the coolant which is why many engines use coolant/oil heat exchangers. Same theory as the tranny cooler in a radiator. As long as the viscosity remains under control and excessive oxidation doesn't takes place no harm will come. A modern oil can easily handle this. It's not optimum though and he needs to fix it.
Agreed...the oil should be cooler than that. In the head, it does cool the cam, lifters/shims and the valve stems...a lot of heat producing friction there.
I'd check the plumbing 1st...make sure all the lines are routed correctly. Does the oil cooler feel warm to the touch once the motor is at operating temp? What about the other questions Donny asked in post #2?
In the pic, it looks like the temp sensor is right below the exhaust manifold...is that correct? If it is, there's an awful lot of radiant heat in that location...might be throwing the sensor off
I'd check the plumbing 1st...make sure all the lines are routed correctly. Does the oil cooler feel warm to the touch once the motor is at operating temp? What about the other questions Donny asked in post #2?
In the pic, it looks like the temp sensor is right below the exhaust manifold...is that correct? If it is, there's an awful lot of radiant heat in that location...might be throwing the sensor off
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im thinking also i dont have a fan shround currently or a under panel, and the oil cooler is practically right behind the bumber support. and some times when i acclerate it pops very fast and theres power loss.
J
I thought the same thing about the sensor location. I would measure the temp at the pan, filter or cooler before I put it there. Routing should have little effect, since he's not running a t-stat, although I would suggest plummbing one in so the oil has a chance to warm up, if the exhaust is influencing the readings.
Ours is routed from the engine to the filter, from the filter to the t-stat, from the t-stat to the cooler, from the cooler back to the t-stat and from the t-stat back to the engine. Idealy, the t-stat would be a good spot to put the sensor, since the temperature would be an effective average of pre and post cooled oil.
-Jake
I thought the same thing about the sensor location. I would measure the temp at the pan, filter or cooler before I put it there. Routing should have little effect, since he's not running a t-stat, although I would suggest plummbing one in so the oil has a chance to warm up, if the exhaust is influencing the readings.
Ours is routed from the engine to the filter, from the filter to the t-stat, from the t-stat to the cooler, from the cooler back to the t-stat and from the t-stat back to the engine. Idealy, the t-stat would be a good spot to put the sensor, since the temperature would be an effective average of pre and post cooled oil.
-Jake
yea the colants fine, koyo rad with 16 lb cap w/o fan shroud, yea the sender is close to the exh mani, that could be it will mess around with the car tommorrow, thanks everyone for the support.
i'm sorry guys. although some of these posts contain decent info, from #20 up until here is basically a pissing contest. i'm cleaning this up. if you have any problems with that, PM me or another moderator to discuss it.
sorry for any inconvenience...
-shaeff
sorry for any inconvenience...
-shaeff
IHI-RHC7 said:
I was concerned about the routing because I didn't know if the oil cooler was actually doing it's job...i.e warm to the touch at operating temp. Just wanted to make sure some lines didn't somehow get swapped around in the routing
An oil thermostat would be a great addition to his set-up...instead of placing the sensor where it's at (one of the hottest places in the engine bay), like you said, just prior to the thermostat would give a good reading. Or, with no thermostat, putting the sensor prior to the filter would be good. In the 7M oil system, the oil is pumped to the filter then into the block. This location would be as close as possible to pan temps.
The oil cooler needs to be in the air flow to do it's job. Any radiator type cooler needs to use the air stream or a fan...otherwise, it will loose effectiveness.
Consider about oil at 250 deg F. The viscosity will decrease with the extra 40 deg over operating temp the oil was designed for. Using 10W-40 as an example, the oil viscosity will fall in the 30W range (9.30-12.49 CSt) vs. the 40W range (12.50-16.29). Did the oil degrade? Sure it did, but not enough to be a problem...most motors are designed to run a 30W multi-grade. It's not good to run the motor like this for long periods...250 deg F is not good for the bearings nor the oil. It does need to be fixed