Oil Presure Problem

[peter551984]

I have two motor, one is 7mge from 88 and it did not present any problem While I was using it, always making a good presure, cold over 40 at least 80psi always warm 40psi contanlly. I have another motor 7mgte that is not making the oil presure that I want, it`s making 40psi cold and 20 and even 15psi warm. I`ll be making a complete rebuild puting wiseco pistons, eagle rods and finally puting a LT10 microtech on it so basically the thing is that some people told me to eliminate the oil squitler and other people told me to just replace it... What will be better for the engine to make a constant presure and go over 40PSI on oil presure at least cold? Do you recomend me to eliminate the oil squirtles or to put new ones? any idea will be more than helpfull...

---------- Post added at 02:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:51 PM ----------

the 7mge 88 does not have oil squitler the 90 7mgte has oil squitles

 

[ask92]

That's seems like a lot of pressure for a NA. My turbo only runs around 20 idling cold, I'm pretty sure that's normal.

 

[peter551984]

The thing is that I`m going to 700RWHP

---------- Post added at 03:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:05 PM ----------

That oil presure wouldn`t affect ?

 

[ask92]

If your going for a 700rwhp 7mgte then oil pressure will be the least if your concern haha. You will probably have to upgrade or shim a new Toyota pump.

 

[peter551984]

I just had that on mind but I`m thinking on buying a new upgrade oil pump from driftmotion but I don`t have any information about it

 

[hvyman]

I dont see the problem.

Stock hot idle psi is 4.3.....

Now would you really be going for 700hp on a old used tired oil pump?

 

[peter551984]

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-driftmotion7m-gteupgradedoilpump.php

---------- Post added at 03:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:29 PM ----------

that`s the oil pump that I want but I don`t have any information about it

 

[ask92]

Item Description
"Brand new Toyota pump, blueprinted internally, moly coated gears to decrease the spacing between the gears and offer smoother operation, and also shimmed to make higher peak oil pressure. This mod really helps the oil pressure at idle, and at low engine rpm! No other mod to the engine will make a more noticeable increase in oil pressure at idle, and that is where this mod helps to improve the engine's reliability and lifespan. My built 7M project a few years ago had this pump upgrade, and it made about 18psi of oil pressure at idle when fully warmed up, running 10/30 oil. My previous 7m made only about 7psi when warm, even running 10/50 oil."

Anything more youd like to know? haha

 

[hvyman]

Can do the oil pressure mod in about 2 min with 30 cents worth of washers.

I would just buy stock pump and do that. Id also run 5w30 or 0w30. not 10w30.

 

[Poodles]

You're looking at a lot of other changes to run 700HP reliably. Oil pressure is the least of your worries.

 

[peter551984]

Yep I know one of the thing besides the oil pressure is the clutch... I wonder wish will be better :
FX500 from Clutchmaster
FX600 from Clutchmaster
Spec Twin disc
ACT Extreme kit

 

[hvyman]

For 700hp id be looking at a twin or tripple disc and not from spec.

You also going to need a standalone, turbo, and the fuel to supply it. Expect to have at least 10k for a built motor and everything to supply it for 700hp.

I would not be using stock pistons either.

 

[peter551984]

Ok I planning this:
- wiseco forged pistons
- eagle rods
- ARP studs
- new bearings rod and cran
- dual disk clutchmaster
- new One piece drive shaft
- dual spring valve
- Pulley Set
- Microtech Lt10
- Microtech X4
- dual walbro with a dual walbro hanger
- 850cc injectors
- maybe a stage 3 brain crower cam

 

[ask92]

Your gonna need to upgrade the car as well, you cant expect a 20 year old car with 240hp to feel good and solid with 700 hp. Youll need at least coilovers and upgraded brakes. As for the engine youll need a new larger radiator, the r154 will need some beefing up, and the head will need some help as well. Also one HELL of a turbo.


Edit: Does anyone have a link to the oil pump shim thread? I'm interested in reading it.

 

[hvyman]

You just remove the cap that ahs the hole in it and add 5mm of washer to put more tension on the spring. Not hard.

 

[Poodles]

- wiseco forged pistons (could go far better...)
- eagle rods (definately go better...)
- ARP studs (this one is obvious)
- new bearings rod and cran (obvious again)
- dual disk clutchmaster (I'd go better, and don't expect your old tranny to hold that power)
- new One piece drive shaft (do a search for this, it's not terribly safe if you're pushing high speeds)
- dual spring valve (from who?)
- Pulley Set (pointless, especially if it's one of those underdrive crank pulleys without a dampener, go ATI)
- Microtech Lt10 (can't comment)
- Microtech X4 (can't comment)
- dual walbro with a dual walbro hanger (could do better)
- 850cc injectors (could go higher as well, also have to mess with everything between the rail and the tank)
- maybe a stage 3 brain crower cam (could go better)

You'll also need:
- Adjusted clearances all through the motor.
- Full turbo kit (turbo, oil lines, manifold, exhaust system, intercooler system)
- Upgraded cooling system
- Head work
- custom intake
- overall inspection of the car (diff, bearings, bushings, subframes)

There's a ton of other things I know I'm missing. 4-500HP isn't too hard to make (can be made on a somewhat stock engine with a bolt-on turbo) but going above that starts getting hairy. It's not going to be cheap, not by a longshot.