oil catch can install
- Thread starter racerjoe2004
- Start date
I mounted mine in front of where my A/C condensor would have been. I plumbed both PCV nipples on the valve covers together and ran them to the inlet of the catch can. The PCV port on the TB is blocked now. I now have the hose going around the cold side of the engine heading towards the inlet of the catch can, but I will probably re-reoute it to be shorter sometime later. the PCV hose that was going to the accordian hose is now off and a new hose connects the accordian hose to the outlet of the catch can.
I will probably be taking out the catch can that's in my car right now and replacing it with the one that I just bought off of Bathory, a GReddy catch can. My OBX catch can is leaking around the oil level piece and it is a sealed catch can, so I can't get inside of it without having to cut and re-weld it. The new one can be opened up with allen head screws.
I was surprised that it didn't have a baffle in it to better help the oil vapor to condensate. I cut out a piece of metal shaped as the top part of the can can to prevent oil vapors from going into the catch can, and flowing right back out of it before it can condensate. The baffle is about half the height of can itself. I also packed the top part of the catch can's outlet with stainless steel wool to help even further prevent oil vapor from being recirculated back through the turbo and IC piping.
Does that help?
I will probably be taking out the catch can that's in my car right now and replacing it with the one that I just bought off of Bathory, a GReddy catch can. My OBX catch can is leaking around the oil level piece and it is a sealed catch can, so I can't get inside of it without having to cut and re-weld it. The new one can be opened up with allen head screws.
I was surprised that it didn't have a baffle in it to better help the oil vapor to condensate. I cut out a piece of metal shaped as the top part of the can can to prevent oil vapors from going into the catch can, and flowing right back out of it before it can condensate. The baffle is about half the height of can itself. I also packed the top part of the catch can's outlet with stainless steel wool to help even further prevent oil vapor from being recirculated back through the turbo and IC piping.
Does that help?
LOL, the only thing that was coming to mind was Fat Ass for me, and I was getting a picture of your car in my mind as you call it fat 
.
.Even after I torched a piston on the dyno and limped the 50KM's home it still didn't have anything in it (tiny bit of condensation was all it ever caught)
(tiny bit of condensation was all it ever caught)
I took out my charcoal canister and sip tied mine to the bracket. Does it do FA? only time will tell
Nope way over on the cold side in the corner, your catch can will do better if you can get it over away from the heat.
Mines routed down behind the driver side foglight, I have gravity and cool environment working for me. And it catches alot of condensation.
Gravity is the same either up on the firewall or down under the fog light. haha.
staticpat said:
It'll work better if it's plumbed properly. Not using the TB port removes the "positive" in positive crankcase ventilation. There isn't any vacuum on the accordion hose. That should be obvious from just looking at it.
jetjock said:
I always thought that while under boost you would get vacuum from the accordian hose, due to the turbo pulling the air. While not on boost I can see the TB being the source of vacuum for the motor as the engine has to pull the air through itself.
Just my thoughts, so shoot me if I'm wrong. :icon_razz
You can always set up a vaccum pump to pull out any PCV fumes. Or use exhaust scavenging (if you hate the environment.)
jetjock said:
The correct way to do it then is to tee in the TB port, both nipples, going to inlet of catch can, then to the accordian hose right? How much vapor travels back into the TB when not in boost do you think?
Mrbaboon said:
Look at how it's setup. Why would there be low pressure on that port unless the air filter was restricted? The pressure drop across the filter and AFM are minuscule (you want them to be) and the PCV port isn't near enough to the turbo to be affected at anything but full boost. Besides, why would you want a negative pressure in the accordion? Isn't that why you guys put bigger pipes and those (supposedly) high performance air filters on? To avoid that sort of thing? Try measuring pressure drop along your induction system sometime. How do you think I know K&N filters don't do anything except suck in dirt?
For all intents and purposes the air filter and PCV port are the same point pressure-wise as long everything upstream of the PCV inlet is free flowing. Unless you've got a garbage bag around your air filter there's maybe a tenth of an inch of water at the PCV port and that's from the effect of the air rushing past it. Think of blowing across the top of a bottle. It doesn't amount to squat. It's true the port goes negative under full boost but it isn't much and exists only because of the restriction posed by the air filter, box, and AFM. But hey, don't take my word for it. Use a manometer and see.
Finally, how often is the engine under boost compared to otherwise? By disconnecting the TB port you're depriving the engine of PCV where it spends most of it's time. Fwiw I've yet to see a catch can plumbed right. It's because many people don't fully understand how the PCV system works.