Off to a bad start (7M-GE verson)

konekillerbrg

New Member
Sep 17, 2011
5
0
0
louisville
Purchased a clean 1989 MkIII 7M-GE auto for my son’s first car. Body has 165xxx miles with a second engine with 77xxx. Here is my problem. My wife wanted to try car out, drove it in second gear on the interstate at 70 mph in 2nd gear. (6000 rpm), thinking that it was in drive. Car ran hot, rear heater hose blew, lights came on , steam came out and she pulled over. Flat bedded car home. Replaced hose, coolant, started car. Car started with a loud bang, ran at 1200rpm with a vibration that caused exhaust shield to buzz. At rpm above 1200rpm very loud rod knock. Only ran engine for a very short time. Oil pressure went to zero.
So suggestions, what happened? BHG or something else. Engine seemed fine when run without hose connected. (just for a minute to re park car)
Should we rebuild, replace with used JDM engine or a rebuilt block?
Money for this young man is very tight. Any non flaming comments welcomed.
 

xzeror

Active Member
Oct 18, 2009
1,356
1
36
Miramar, FL
jdm engines could come with a bhg already, you never know their condition for sure. Youre prob better off rebuilding and knowing for sure what has been done on the engine. On another note i will be swapping out my 7mge for a 2jzgte in the coming months and the 7mge will be for sale :].
 

konekillerbrg

New Member
Sep 17, 2011
5
0
0
louisville
How possible would it be to replace bearing without removing engine. I saw a thread where a member did this, but not on how well it worked out. I put less than 1/2 mile on the engine after the knock started, so the bearing may be the only part other then the head gasket that was hurt. There are many threads dealing with the head gasket problem, most leaving the short block in the car. Any insight would be welcomed.
 

bioskyline

New Member
Oct 21, 2010
1,236
0
0
powell river bc
you can do it in car but its a pain in the ass. http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...How-To-drop-Oilpan&highlight=redneck+rodknock is the link. still easier in my opionin to just pull the motor out, and do it on a stand at human height. also though like you said cash is tight, id almost replace the HG while its apart, casue the extra spent now will save in the long run. at the very least replace to 2 90 degree collant elbows on the exasut side while its out, even in a non turbo, they still suck changine in car.

good luck!
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
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62
I come from a land down under
konekillerbrg;1768145 said:
Purchased a clean 1989 MkIII 7M-GE auto for my son’s first car. Body has 165xxx miles with a second engine with 77xxx. Here is my problem. My wife wanted to try car out, drove it in second gear on the interstate at 70 mph in 2nd gear. (6000 rpm), thinking that it was in drive. Car ran hot, rear heater hose blew, lights came on , steam came out and she pulled over. Flat bedded car home. Replaced hose, coolant, started car. Car started with a loud bang, ran at 1200rpm with a vibration that caused exhaust shield to buzz. At rpm above 1200rpm very loud rod knock. Only ran engine for a very short time. Oil pressure went to zero.
So suggestions, what happened? BHG or something else. Engine seemed fine when run without hose connected. (just for a minute to re park car)
Should we rebuild, replace with used JDM engine or a rebuilt block?
Money for this young man is very tight. Any non flaming comments welcomed.

I'm not understanding why it's "his" problem?

You'd be far better off pulling the engine and inspecting it for further damage than trying to do the job in car.

More than likely the Oil filter has gone into bypass leading up to this and flushed metal through the Oil galleries so will need a proper cleanout and reassembly, something that can't be done in place.