Odd Question time - RE: 7MGE on Engine Stand

[Grandavi]

I have an odd question, my 7MGE (from a 90 Cressida) is being put onto an engine stand for me to redo the seals, etc..

Now, its a 1000 lb engine stand on wheels, and has a 4 pt connection system (kind of an "H" configuration). If it would help, I can post a pic up, but I think someone here will know the correct answer anyway...

I have the stand attached, but had to use different bolts because I dont have the bell housing bolts (the other engine is still in the 87 MKIII). However, if I lower the engine hoist, it seems to be a tad top heavy and I think it will bend the 4 attached arms.

So.. for those of you who have done this, where is the best 4 points to locate the bolts, and what bolts are used (I am assuming the are 17 mm for the bellhousing.. and am about to go to the TSRM). The engine is very front/top heavy and I want to make sure it doesnt bend the arms or tip, plus I will be spinning it once I get everything off except the head.

Thanks in advance! : )

Edited to add: I cant see what the bell housing bolt is (it has numbers.. 375 (27,37) but I dont know what they refer to). If its typical Toyota, its going to be a 17 mm and approximately 3-4" long I am guessing. (that might be too long).
I will have to get those bolts, so I may just order new ones just for giggles... doubt I have ones that will match properly with thread.. most of mine are not metric..

 

[roadboy]

i specifically ordered new bell housing bolts just to put my motor on the engine stand. at first it didnt seem like it would hold. what i did was attack for arms while the engine is on the ground. once its all configured and tightened up get a friend to help you lift it up and attack it to the engine stand. also you can use the new bellhousing bolts when you put back the motor.

i didnt go for the best points. as it only fit one way for me. two top two bottom. and made sure they were tight, tight.

 

[Grandavi]

I have an overhead hoist, so I actually attach it to the stand while its in the air. (tons easier). Right now its hanging with the engine stand attached, but when I lowered it, I stopped before it bent the arms. I did not attach it to the top 2 bellhousing bolt holes.. and I think that made it very very much too top heavy.. looking into getting the bolts.

When you had yours on a stand, was it a pain to flip? Or did you even risk it? I can do it all with it sitting in normal position, but I think I can get things cleaner if I can flip the engine (which the stand will allow me to do, although looking at the bar.. I think I better have the hoist attached while flipping.. just in case.. lol)

 

[suprarx7nut]

I went to home depot/lowes and got 4 new bolts, extra long to use to mount to the stand. I dont remember exact length or which holes i've used, but they seemed at least somewhat obvious. As I'm sitting here, I almost remember there being 5 likely spots and I chose the 4 that made the closest thing to an even square as possible.

Does that help?

I had a 1000 lb stand on my builds and I was able to carefully rotate it without issue. Just be careful, most engine stands can handle a 7M just fine, but turning it can be a little nerve-racking.

 

[roadboy]

when i had mine on a stand, it was easy to flip. at first i was nervous to flip it because i didnt know if it could. after a couple times it was fine for me. as long as you make sure the four bolts are tight-tight.

see where the four new bellhousing bolts are? thats where i bolted it on the engine stand

 

[te72]

Would be a good idea, for safety's sake, to have the hoist as a potential "catch" point in case something does go awry on you. Just use a sling under the engine as you're flipping it, particularly if you're alone.

I had a similar nervous feeling when trying to remove the crank pulley off the 1j. ~26x ft-lbs of torque was a bit overpowering for the stand, the engine tried to rotate, then the stand itself decided to get up off one of it's legs... that was a clenching moment.

 

[Grandavi]

Thank you Roadboy for that photo! Exactly what I need to know. Pretty sure the stock bellhousing bolts wont work as I have an extra 1.5-2" tube to put the bolt through, so will be sourcing bolts specifically for this.
I have to remove the crank pulley from this engine as well as its buggered from hitting the front of a celica engine bay (was used in a Celica rally car for a year). I dont plan on pulling the head, but I do plan on redoing all the seals and gaskets solely because it will be efficient to do it now. Planning on retorquing the head bolts though. Its going into a 87 NA that I just want roadworthy and then decide to sell or use as the supra I CAN drive in winter.. lol.

 

[CyFi6]

Keep in mind its best to take the pan off if you are going to flip the motor over. Any debris that may have accumulated at the bottom of the pan over time could potentially drop all over your pistons and crank when you turn it upside down. I have never been able to turn a completely assembled engine on the stand very easily, I always had to hook the hoist to one side of the motor and rotate it by lifting. They do have engine stands with a hand crank which would be really nice but I bet they are really expensive.

 

[Grandavi]

This stand has a hand "rod", but its not that large... I am thinking I will hook the hoist up initially. Because the 7MGE is out of a Cressida, I have to change the oil sump and pan anyway (which is why I am flipping it). I will be stripping the engine of everything except the head before I flip it. The only reason I want the bottom up top is to clean the oil pan gasket area and look over the internals from the bottom.. I may pull the rear bearing just to see the condition.
I would do a full rebuild, but these engines cant simply be draw filed and then the head popped on.. If I had to do the head, it would get rebuilt fully.

 

[IJ.]

You want at a bare minimum the length of the Stand Mount + 1.5d of the bolt (d being diameter)

 

[Grandavi]

M10 x 1.25mm thread x about 100 mm (4") long ... I think that is the bolt I want.

90119-10019 is the part number for the bell housing bolt.. wondering if anyone can confirm my measurement? (M10x1.25 40mm is the Toyota measurement JIS.. 99.99% sure - JIS = Japanese Industrial Standard btw... lol)

 

[te72]

Keep in mind its best to take the pan off if you are going to flip the motor over. Any debris that may have accumulated at the bottom of the pan over time could potentially drop all over your pistons and crank when you turn it upside down.

Good idea! I wouldn't have thought of that until I had to clean out the debris...

 

[Grandavi]

I went and got these.. hoping they work... will know tomorrow

Slightly longer than I wanted.. but we will see..

They are Grade 5 M10x1.25x110mm hex head from Triad (6.00 for 4)

 

[IJ.]

I went and got these.. hoping they work... will know tomorrow

Slightly longer than I wanted.. but we will see..

They are Grade 5 M10x1.25x110mm hex head from Triad (6.00 for 4)

View attachment 54274

I probably would have gone Grade 8's but I'm paranoid

 

[Grandavi]

I probably would have gone Grade 8's but I'm paranoid

was debating that, but the guy looked like I was annoying him.. lol.

 

[te72]

I probably would have gone Grade 8's but I'm paranoid

I used to work as the nut/bolt supplier for Home Depot, after doing that for a few years, I learned to start looking for Grade 10's if I can find them. :aigo:

 

[Grandavi]

Well.. it took 6 washers and a 3/4" nut as a spacer, but the engine is attached (thats per bolt). 110 mm was far too long.. lol. wouldn't have been an issue if the threads were longer, but as it sits, I had to shim it quite a bit to get the desired length.

At least now I can strip off the outside and all the manifolds, covers, etc.. and prep for gaskets/seals... (and the proper oil pan and pump for a Supra application instead of the Cressida)