Now, I am offically upset.... HELP!

[gixxer750]

hmmm....clutch started slipping, so I did a full upgraded clutch install..... $1400 total price by the time I was done with it...

Got the clutch done only to find I had a boost leak and no power....

Fixed the boost leak three days later..

200 miles later, I blew my cometic head gasket.... Total cost to fix this time $650 and about 5 hours less sleep

Fixed the head gasket only to find I busted another turbo to hardpipe coupler. So I fix that, and then ......

I have 3-4 psi in first gear, 5-6 psi in 2nd gear, 8-9 psi in third, 10-11 psi in fourth, and about 15 psi in 5th gear....

Turbo has minimal shaft play, and still looks good... I have no boost leaks(tested with boost leak tester, held 20 psi for five minutes), car doesn't seem to be running extremely rich, turbo does not build positive boost until 4.5 k rpm.... It goes to 0 at 2000 rpm when I floor it, goes to like .1 at 3k, like .5 psi at 3.5 k, 1psi at 4k, then from 4k rpm and up, I actually have full boost for whatever it decides to boost to in that gear. I really really don't understand this one.... I have no codes, I reset the ECU three times and still doesn't run better...

This sucks!!!! The car pulls like a mofo in third and up gears, but is gutless in first and second. I'm used to 15 psi in first and second gears, and the rear end going sideways....


Help! All ideas welcome!

 

[Nick M]

How does it run when not in boost?

Maybe ignition timing is off a bit, causing the engine to not hit max cylinder pressure.

 

[Allan_MA70]

cam timing would be my guess

 

[IJ.]

I'm with the guys on this Gixx.

Backtrack a bit what's changed this time and check basics like timing and so on!

 

[suprabad]

Obviously one or both cams are out of whack. It's the only explanation. So check your base timing. Oh, do I know how you feel...it sucks! But you're a smart guy you probably just goofed the base timing when installing the timing belt (in a rush to boost).

Don't beat yourself up...it happens to the best of us. Let us know how it works out. Good luck!

 

[gixxer750]

Ok, the timing belt teeth will not line exactly up.... I got them to where they should be though finally after playing with it..... A LOT.

IGN timing is 10 degrees BTDC with the check connector thing done...

Now I am getting full boost where I should get full boost, but not making power...

I get about 14-15 psi easily, but it feels like 5-6 psi. There is a hesitation around 3k and at 5k it straightens up and pulls like it should.

THEN... the check engine light came on.... Bad 02 sensor, code 21.... How nice

I put a two wire sensor in from another various toyota, just to see if that helped any, and checked the 02 port in the diagnostic block to see the activity. I left the 12V + black wire out, used the black ground and blue wire only. I get bouncing readings from .112v to .995v that quickly fluctuate back and fourth, but the code is gone...

So, I reset the eCU, drive the car down the road, and boost some. I check codes again. Now I am getting a code 24, intake air temp sensor. Car feels like it is pulling timing, and stumbles throughout the RPM range at various points occasionally. It is still slower than stock.

The 02 sensor going bad I can understand. The car had about 10 tanks of AV GAS mixed with 93 octane run through it.. So yeah, it was probably lead fouled. Also, the running super rich from the boost leak probably finished the thing off.... But what is this deal with the intake air temp sensor in the AFM all the sudden... That is some gay shit...

why me? lol

 

[gixxer750]

ok... fixed, I MADE the timing belt teeth line up.... Problem solved....

no sooner than I get back from the test drive, what happens? I hear the wear indicators squeeling on my rear brakes.... lol. Time to do brake pads I guess

 

[gixxer750]

At least I know how to fix the brake pad problem though

 

[IJ.]

LMAO glad it was something easy this time!

 

[gixxer750]

I just hope nothing breaks until spring now....lol. Every piece of rubber underhood is new, the engine is new, the headgasket is new, the car is getting tuned wednesday, new plugs, new wires, new 02 sensor, new clutch, new driveshaft bearing, new gear oil, new differential oil, new water pump, new radiator, new antifreeze, new PS fluid and lines...... hope that covers me for three months....lol

 

[IJ.]

<fingers crossed>

 

[SidewayzSupra]

Damn dude what kinda clutch was $1,400:aigo: ? My ACT stage 3, 6 puck clutch was $500. Glad to hear you got everything put back together. I've heard people having problems with their cometic h/g. They have since gone to HKS. Good luck. Later-T

 

[IJ.]

My OSGiken Twin was much more than that

 

[Halsupramk3]

cant wait to see your car now that it is running so well.

 

[gixxer750]

the clutch wasn't 1400....the entire job while doing the clutch was though...

While in there, I replaced every seal on the engine just for good measure, filter relocation kit, oil cooler, oil thermostat, fidanza flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts, redline trans oil, new shifter end bushing and green gasket, new valve cover gaskets, a few new hoses, new belts, new coolant thermostat, new antifreeze, 7 more quarts of mobil 1, and a k&n filter, new pressure plate to flywheel bolts, New turbo outlet gasket, got a lower hardpipe made, a few new couplers, new clutch fork bolts, new timing belt, new timing tensioner, new valve cover grommets, new driveshaft bearing...... and that probably isn't all.

Thats what kind of clutch cost 1400..... When I do something to the supra, I go all the way with it, and do stuff that is easier to do while I'm doing the current job on it. If I spot anything that looks a little suspious, I fix it then.

Hal : I will be at marshalls shop wednesday, probably around 2 pm.... going to get him to tune high and low rpm settings, for high and low boost. He will also be setting base fuel pressure, and doing some other tweaking to make sure everything is right and it doesn't blow up He quoted me around $150 for tuning and dyno time!

 

[IHI-RHC7]

Gixx, you replaced your carrier bearing?
For about the same price, you could have had a 1 piece driveline made...

 

[MDCmotorsports]

Wouldn't have thought the cams right off the bat.... I was guessing the wastegate was broken or the thrust bearing in the turbo went south.

Glad to hear you are back in the game though!

 

[gixxer750]

why, the new carrier bearing was 73 dollars at my store

 

[IHI-RHC7]

I'm buying from you next time.