Hey people, how's it going? I'm new to this forum, and new to this car though I've had it for nearly a year. Originally I'm a Subaru guy, but my friend gave me a ride in this car, and 5 years later I now own it. I picked up a Chilton's mannual for it, but I really don't know anything about it. :1zhelp: Can someone point me in the direction of where I can pick up some fairly inexpensive less restrictive intercooler piping and where I can find an adapter for the MAF sensor so I can put a K&N filter on it? The original one on there was silconed on. Very hack. Anyway any help would be awesome. I've done a couple of searches, but I'm not used to the way this forum works yet, so I couldn't really find what I was looking for.
New to this forum and I have a couple questions
- Thread starter White89MK3
- Start date
IC pipes should be the same as everywhere else.... used ones! if you must replace stock i suggest getting used hose still in good condition or PCV pipe even... you could also save up for a complete kit... or even check the misc venders they sell some parts (like whole lower section) for cheap as well. in my opinion dont replace it as an upgrade if you plan on getting a new turbo / intercooler just incase you want/need larger pipes.
as for an adapter they sell them on ebay for 3'' cone etc just make sure they send the right one... about 5-15$ they look just like the HKS ones they just... arent 40$ each
as for an adapter they sell them on ebay for 3'' cone etc just make sure they send the right one... about 5-15$ they look just like the HKS ones they just... arent 40$ each
Oh cool, I looked on Ebay, but I wasn't sure if the adapter would work or not. The one I was looking at looked like it came with a cheap "High Flow" filter, but it looked more like a K&N filter but with crome around it. I want to upgrade the Intercooler piping because I've never been a fan of plastic tubing. I saw a kit on ebay but it was nearly $500. I also wanted to upgrade the intercooler itself, unless the stock one is fine. I don't really want to do a swap on this car. The state I live in is so small its nearly pointless to have a 1jz or 2jz. Also would you recommend removing the clutch fan in favor of an electric one, or keep the clutch fan?
Okay, dump the chiltons or haynes manual for it. They're books of lies.
Instead, use the online TSRM - its made by Toyota.
Instead, use the online TSRM - its made by Toyota.
www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx
This is the TSRM he's talking about. Awesome resource.
This is the TSRM he's talking about. Awesome resource.
I'd keep the stock IC piping. It works fine for the most part untill you start getting to the 300hp range. I can recomend a BIC downpipe, and full exhaust. doing those should net you some serious gains.
Very first thing you need to check is maintenance... old hoses need to be replaced, oil leaks need to be fixed, and so on.
Then I'd replace the entire exhaust, from the turbo back, (if you have the turbo model, of course) and the intake.
Then add a boost controller. Then it starts to get complicated.
Then I'd replace the entire exhaust, from the turbo back, (if you have the turbo model, of course) and the intake.
Then add a boost controller. Then it starts to get complicated.
GrimJack said:Very first thing you need to check is maintenance... old hoses need to be replaced, oil leaks need to be fixed, and so on.
Then I'd replace the entire exhaust, from the turbo back, (if you have the turbo model, of course) and the intake.
Then add a boost controller. Then it starts to get complicated.
x2 and welcome
Duane
I'd also add to Grimjack's post to check the torque (and retorque if necessary) the headbolts. Mk3's do have a headgasket issue, so I wouldn't start upping the power until that is addressed.
The car came with an OBX cat back. It had an SAFC but it was wired wrong, and I didn't think it would even work so I removed it. I later installed it into another car and I guess its working fine. I definately want to get a turbo timer, and another SAFC though. The only leak that I saw was coming from the valve cover. The car will probably need a complete overhaul its been sitting a while, like 2 years. It ran fine before that though. It was parked because the serp belt snapped and blew the water pump.
Just as an FYI, we don't have a serpentine belt, we have three regular belts, and blowing one shouldn't affect the water pump.
it was the belt that spun the clutch fan. when it broke the fan stopped spinning and the car over heated. The water pump was no good as was the thermostat, so it was replaced.
If I were you I would replace the headgasket with a metal headgasket have the head machined and get a set of studs before I go and do any modifications. Especially if you got the car after it over heated. Its been modified before and from my guess if they couldnt wire an safc then they probably didnt know what they were doing.
I would inspect the head gasket very closely. This motor is very unforgiving about over-heating.
Yeah, I'm definately going to look into it. When I saw that there was an external power wire runnin goff of the SAFC I had a feeling something was wrong. Just curious but how much does a 7MGTE go for these days? I figure I'd find out now in case I need to replace mine. One thing I did notice was that there was nothing in the anti-freeze. So there's hope still.
White89MK3 said:
well
that fan is connected DIRECTLY to the water pump. so you had two things going. One no air, two the water was not moving either hence the overheat.
These motors do not like being overheated. To long and cause issues when they do overheat.
btw welcome to the forums!
Welcome to the money pit. Glad she ain't beating around the bush with you and is rearing it's ugly side right from the start.
long head = one bad overheat and it warps and blows the HG...
get a compression test done ASAP to rule it out and make you feel better, if it's bad or you just want to do preventative maintenance, do a MHG with ARP studs and be done with it... (might want to rebuild the head too as valve stem seals are a lot easier to change with the head off...)
get a compression test done ASAP to rule it out and make you feel better, if it's bad or you just want to do preventative maintenance, do a MHG with ARP studs and be done with it... (might want to rebuild the head too as valve stem seals are a lot easier to change with the head off...)